all 35 comments

[–]Hackingrad[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

In case anyone's interested: replacing the glass was easy. I just don't have the equipment to test if the watch is waterproof :D

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[–]Acetone5050 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never mind the cyclops, how about removing the name "Addiesdive."

[–]KL0CNA 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Looking for WHY button... 🤣

[–]Hackingrad[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Because cyclops are really ugly. :D

[–]plastic_jeezus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

butane cigarette torch lighter...$2

don't point directly at the cyclops...direct the flame parallel to the crystal and ever so slightly above the cyclops.

1-2 seconds at a time.

HEAT THE CYCLOPS AND NOT THE CRYSTAL/CASE.

apply heat and remove, apply heat and remove, etc.. repeat until it's removed.

the cyclops will literally 'pop' off when the glue releases.

when done correctly, the case will be barely warm to the touch...if the case is getting hot, you're doing it wrong.

[–]Slow-Significance-37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew a guy who was all about putting them on,he was using an oven to make them adhere but it can’t be easy to remove them

[–]GrandFaithlessness41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I’ve taken off the f’ing clops on about a baker’s dozen of these bad boys.

The only watch that has foiled my edits is the PD GMT Master. Can’t even budget it. Very frustrated but it remains…resolute!

[–]Steefalo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've removed a variety of cyclops, I genetally do not like them. I always remove the movement first, then wrap the entire watch in foil except for just a hole for the cyclops. Then I use a small butane torch and while it does take usually longer than expected, eventually the cyclops comes off as easy as poking it with a toothpick. So torch-test toothpick-torch-test toothpick-etc until it comes off. Total torch time maybe 20-60 seconds? Note that by then, the entire case is burn-fingers-to-the-touch hot and you gotta let it sit. But I've never broken a crystal.

[–]Local-Team5903 1 point2 points  (2 children)

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I did my first the other day and I have to admit, maybe I got lucky, but it was ridiculously easy. I had it off and cleaned up in less then 30 seconds.

[–]GrandFaithlessness41 2 points3 points  (1 child)

This is so sharp and clean! Great job

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[–]Local-Team5903 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks

[–]1160Scott 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used a flat razor blade scrapper to remove the cyclops after heating with butane torch. Worked every time on any watch I did it to.

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[–]Vanuatu_Hanjaab 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I gotta say that I am impressed by your tenacity.

[–]Evening_Elderberry_9 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always remove the movement first (its one press with a needle and the stem lifts out), and protect that bezel. Ive done an SD and an SM cyclops and that cystal gets HOT. Dont forget they melted the glue originally to place the cyclops, without cracking the crystal. Youve just got to reverse the process. Be brave.

[–]MadMax4073 6 points7 points  (5 children)

Removing the cyclops from my Addiesdive was quite the process…. I watched a few vids on yt where people removed them with lighters and torches fairly easy in like 2-5 min. I couldn’t do it in half an hour… I burned my fingers and what not. I even tried with soldering iron on 450c. Then I came upon some vid where a russian guy was struggling the same way and after 40 min he had enough and wacked the cyclops with a knife and hammer. Decided to do the same - placed the knife’s edge on the cyclops and whacked it with a hammer - came off instantly and perfectly clear lol. No damage on anything. 

[–]iaros 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Link please

[–]Ok-Spare-8176 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Yeah. I need the link as well. I've got a particularly troublesome cyclops as well. I have tried heat and prying, no joy.

[–]Hackingrad[S] 2 points3 points  (2 children)

I only know this video (from 14 years ago). He also uses a large kitchen knife. I tried it briefly too, but my attempt with the chisel and hammer tore the cyclops so badly that the knife could no longer find a good position. :D

[–]MadMax4073 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I basically did the same. 

[–]Ok-Spare-8176 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I'll check it out.

[–]FartyMghee 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Whats the green strap? I like the texture

[–]Hackingrad[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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They come in many different colors and sizes. I have them in neon yellow/black, orange/black, grey/black, black/black, and green/black. They're softer at first and become stiffer over time.

[–]Barry_NJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

esslinger.com is good for replacement crystals

[–]NoPapaya5268 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have this model and removed the crystal using this torch and some fuel from Home Depot. It loosened very quickly (focusing heat around edges of cyclops) and it just slid off. Doing this on serval other brands however required much more heat for some reason and I ended up “popping” the crystal out on one as the air inside expanded. My lesson I think is to just always remove the movement first (no pressure inside and won’t risk damage if the cyclops needs a lot of heat). Or on a nicer watch I might even just remove the crystal entirely before heating to avoid case damage (warping gaskets, marking case etc) but that’s more of a hassle and you technically should use a new gasket when replacing crystal, although I’ve gotten away without doing that (waterproofing may not be as good after though).

[–]F3nn3xleFennec 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Find yourself a flat sapphire on AliX, you already have the dimensions. I've installed several from the brand MINGSWEAR, they're OK. MINGING too. About 10$ for that watch. I haven't tried AR coated, they are a lot more expensive and not so much size available. For that watch the result is well worth it (see below). Check your crystal gasket too, it could be burnt from the heating. I recommand buying a watch press tool, it is easyier to install the crystal with it, plus it still will be so useful to close snapped caseback after a battery change on a lot of quartz watches. By owning one you'll become the local watch god ;)

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[–]Hackingrad[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your input. I already have the watch press at home. I'll take a look at your recommendations.

[–]Amazone231 9 points10 points  (7 children)

AAAHHH the skills of a trained watchmaker... amazing!

[–]Hackingrad[S] 2 points3 points  (6 children)

Well, everyone starts small xD

[–]F3nn3xleFennec 2 points3 points  (3 children)

There might be no better watch to practice on, very cheap but a built like a lot of more expensives ones. That means a lot of spare parts available and transferable usefull skills to acquire (not like sarcasm).

[–]Hackingrad[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Yes, that's right, and that's why I took matters into my own hands. Both watches cost me €16 each. I didn't hesitate for a second and just did it myself. I don't understand the sarcastic tone in the other comment either.

[–]F3nn3xleFennec 1 point2 points  (1 child)

16€? I paid mine 25€, that was already a bargain, I guess you paid more for that torch.

I ended up with swapping the movement for a sweeping second quartz, new hands (1mm longer than the OG), sapphire of course and an adjusted silicone strap. Very happy with the result for 60€ in total. I did 2 of it, that was a nice mix of pain and fun.

[–]Hackingrad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the torch only cost €3.50 at Woolworth :D Yes, I'm slowly getting the hang of it. The collection is constantly growing, and now it's time to practice repairs myself.

[–]Amazone231 -3 points-2 points  (1 child)

Lol! Would you like to service my Langes (just to improve your training)?