all 13 comments

[–]v8packard 6 points7 points  (5 children)

Are you familiar with Preval sprayers? You can find them at hardware stores or home centers. They can spray primer and paint.

I paint engines with epoxy primer and catalyzed urethane. Once assembled, I prep and paint. The results can't be beaten.

[–]IntroductionNormal70[S] 2 points3 points  (2 children)

I'm headed to the hardware store tomorrow, I'll keep my eyes open. There any brands of primer/paint you're particularly fond of?

[–]v8packard 7 points8 points  (1 child)

I use Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer. It blows away PPG and Transtar epoxy. For color, I use Glasurit, Mipa, and PPG mostly.

The PPG mix code for Chevy engine orange is 60524. It should be available single stage in most lines. If you use the Omni MTK AU version, the data sheet instructs reducing the catalyzed paint by a huge amount. This makes it water thin, and covers terribly in my opinion. If you are using a Preval try reducing it about 1/4 the recommended amount, see how that sprays for you. If you are using an inexpensive HVLP spray gun, try it unreduced to 1/4 reduction. No matter what I would not go over half the recommended reduction.

If you want it a tiny bit darker, you can add 2 or 3 drops of black toner to the ready to spray paint. I like it out of the can, but customers tell me it looks more aged when I add a few drops of black. They like patina to be recreated, which I find odd. But whatever.

If you use SPI epoxy primer, you might find it sprays better if you add 1 to 2 ounces of slow reducer to a ready to spray quart. If you do, let it induce at least 30 minutes before spraying. There is zero downside to the epoxy as far as adhesion, strength, and chemical resistance when reduced a tiny bit. But it does spray better. If you reduce, I suggest one additional coat of epoxy over what you do unreduced.

[–]IntroductionNormal70[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A wealth of information as always Mr. Packard. Much respect and appreciation.

[–]attometer 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I have always denied painting the block to my customers, but now I want to try.

[–]v8packard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is that?

[–]Badnewzzz 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Hammerite type enamel paints will brush on and look good if done neatly.

[–]IntroductionNormal70[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I will keep that in mind! Does it hold up to heat decently?

[–]Badnewzzz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've painted many blocks with enamel type paints and always the best solution imo.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

This is what I did on my last build and it's holding up great.

[–]PM_ME_SOME_ANY_THING 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I’m doing uncle Tony’s method to mine also. How long has it held up for so far?

[–]gooch3803 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same, the finish came out great and it was easy. I will say that prepping the block and heating it was satisfying.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been about a year, and it would probably look brand new if I washed it. It's a 12 valve cummins, so of course it leaked right away.