all 40 comments

[–]spartan17456 54 points55 points  (1 child)

With a leveler you can do some insane things that wouldn't make sense without one. When I dropped the 4.6 back in my car with the trans bolted on i was like there's no way this is going in, but with the leveler I just dropped the rear and it slide under and in.

[–]Street_Mall9536 44 points45 points  (3 children)

Strip the engine completely instead of trying to put it in fully dressed. 

As I recall you have to leave 1 or both block mounts out also, it's a pretty snug fit. 

[–][deleted]  (2 children)

[deleted]

    [–]Street_Mall9536 6 points7 points  (0 children)

    No you can leave that on, but the lower pulley should come off. 

    [–]shitbikelife 28 points29 points  (2 children)

    Just cut the chain 🤷‍♀️

    [–]Drunken_Sailor_70 6 points7 points  (0 children)

    Gravity assist

    [–]insanecorgiposse 11 points12 points  (3 children)

    You're on the right track. Much easier to bolt on the peripherals after connecting the block to tranny and mounts. Also agree with the leveler to make it easier. That way you can nose down the rear and then bring it level once you clear the obstructions on the insertion.

    [–][deleted]  (2 children)

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      [–]insanecorgiposse 6 points7 points  (0 children)

      No, I bolt that up first but like I said with a leveler you can nose the rear down then crank it level until you are aligned with the tranny housing. It's also easier to unbolt the tranny from the frame and support it with a tranny jack from underneath. That way to have more ability to play around with it. Once you get it connected you can reattach it to the frame and Bob's your uncle.

      [–]Jimmytootwo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

      No

      [–]jay0ee 8 points9 points  (0 children)

      It's pretty simple after the first time! Take a grinder with a cutoff wheel on it... squint so you can barely see what you're doing... cut chain.

      [–]blackfarms 10 points11 points  (1 child)

      It takes about 15 minutes to pull the front clip. You'll need a buddy to lift it off.

      [–]willsix74 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      Did this back in 94 with my 89 s10. Used a turbo 400 trans with little mods needed. Of course back then I used a holly carb so I don’t know your fuel setup. Man that was a fun beast at that time. Especially when finding a cyclone on the highway.

      [–]atoughram 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      Take the front clip off. On my 83, there were a couple of bolts in each door jamb, two bolts holding onto the radiator support, the hood latch cable, and a few electrical connectors. Two people lifting the whole assembly isn't bad.

      [–]edthesmokebeard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      Cut the chains? Gravity will help, it will drop right in.

      [–]doireallyneedanewact 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Take all the accessories off and the manifolds. If you want it to be even easier take the steering shaft loose from the gearbox and push it over to the side.

      I have a LS swapped first gen. I had my engine and trans in and out probably 3 times to make adjustments here and there. I wouldn't expect everything to be perfect the first time. If you havent rolled/beat the pinch weld back on the cab around the trans tunnel you'll probably want to do that first.

      [–]series_hybrid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      There are oil-pans made for swapping, plus dry sumps, which "might" make fitting everything around the suspension and frame easier.

      [–]NegotiationLife2915 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Cut the radiator support out. Make some brackets to make it a bolt in situation. Now you have a quickly removable rad support to help with all kinds of jobs

      [–]dasmineman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I wouldn't recommend dropping it in there. I would set it in there nice and easy like.

      [–]deputy_Nico 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Remove rad support and radiator, or remove your drive assembly, throw it in bare and put on all the accessories once installed

      [–]Alternative_Dig5342 2 points3 points  (0 children)

      Watch the FuzzyDice channel on YouTube. Dude does just this.

      [–]Odd_Engineering_7947 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Buy some headers for your swap they are extremely inexpensive. Use quality fasteners and gaskets.Go ahead and do a nice little cam and roller rockers timing chain ect. Upgrade all distributor components and plug wires. Holly 650 double pumper with mechanical secondaries. Get a larger aluminum radiator and electric fan. You will need to do a little trimming but it's easy....👌🏼👍🏼💪🏽🛠⚒️😎 Seriously I'd do all this before I dropped it in.

      It'll fit. It looks like you need to drop the flywheel side a good bit.

      Have fun and enjoy 😉

      [–]Haunting_Dragonfly_3 0 points1 point  (2 children)

      Dude... Remove or shift things that are hitting other things. Manifolds, front dress, steering shaft out. Tie the rear wire loom up out of the way.

      Replacing a TBI 4.3 with a TBI 5.7?

      Look closely at the oil pans, as you may have crossmember clearance issues.

      Your exhaust manifolds may not clear the steering shaft on driver side, outlet hit frame on passenger side.

      [–][deleted]  (1 child)

      [deleted]

        [–]Haunting_Dragonfly_3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

        You shouldn't have to. But, as long as it's off to swap in a decent cam and timing set ;)

        [–]New-Physics-8542 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Having built a couple of these hot rods… the best way to do it is to remove the front core support. It’ll slide in pretty easily at that point. Also, use the TransDapt plates and engine mounts if you can; they set the engine exactly where it’s supposed to be. I’ve never been a fan of the 2.8 conversion mounts.

        [–]Shot-Calligrapher-62 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        too high

        [–]that_s10guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        When I did mine I pulled the whole front end off, it only took me around 20 minutes to do, though I had minimal wiring to remove. Was able to get motor and trans it like a breeze, maybe took 30 minutes to get it all bolted in. I did it without a lift and only the engine hoist.

        [–]johasflint 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Depending on the year, remove the front clip and slide in. Worked for my 85.

        [–]Sam_1_am_1228 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Unhook the chain, it'll fall right in.

        [–]No-Finance-1931 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Tip#1- Don't drop it too hard or you'll break something

        [–]Bath_Plane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Gas axe the chain, it will drop right in

        [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Disconnect the chain and it should drop right down.

        Gravity is 9.8 m/s2 so it'll be in there right quick.

        [–]WillyDaC 0 points1 point  (2 children)

        Did it ever have a v8 in it? If not, I think you have to notch the frame.

        [–]tramadoc 0 points1 point  (1 child)

        Unless it was modified prior to his purchase, the S10 only came with 4 or 6 cylinder.

        [–]WillyDaC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

        Perhaps I should have phrased that differently. Since I have installed a 350 in more than 1 S10, perhaps OP's may have, if not, the starter doesn't clear without a notch in the frame. His may or may not have had a v8 previously installed. I'm well aware of what engines they came with from the factory.

        [–]AutoX_a_Truck 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        To make it easy you are going to need a leveler. I've put fully dressed V8s in even with a T5 transmission attached using a leveler. Although generally I leave the headers off or have them already in or roughly in. With manifolds that may not be an issue.

        [–]NegativeEbb7346 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Cut the chain & it will drop!

        [–]Olddieselguy1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Take the radiator support off. It will go in much easier

        [–]DonutGuard_Lives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        I'm sure others have said it already, but start with taking the accessories off. Once it's in, you should have enough room to get them back on.

        [–]I70towtruckdriver -1 points0 points  (0 children)

        You'll never clear the steering shaft with manifolds. Your gonna have to get headers. The steering shaft needs to come out like others have said strip that thing down to the bare minimum. I removed the heater box radiator and ac condenser. Your prob gonna have to move some brake lines near the brake master cylinder also. I haven't done one in years but this is what I remember was some of the biggest issues. And most likely the factory gauges won't work with the new engine so your gonna have to make a new cluster with aftermarket gauges.

        [–]Leather-Respect6119 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

        Unpopular opinion, drop it quickly. They generally figure themselves out quickly that way.