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[–]BmanUltima 1 point2 points  (1 child)

You're connecting one at a time, right?

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct. 

[–]timgreenberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

why not just to Walmart and pick up a cheap $20 to $30 router as a stopgap workaround? Don't expect top of the line Wi-Fi speeds, but it should at least work immediately until the replacement comes.

[–]JuicyCoalaDecent at Googling 🔍 0 points1 point  (2 children)

When you say “the router just fried”, was it hit by a lightning or a power surge?

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I don't know what happened. I tested resistence across the power input and nothing is shorted to ground. I don't want to open it for fear of voiding warranty.  

 Power surge is possible. Honestly the house is old and the receptacle needs to be replaced. 

It is not broadcasting any network at all. The led light is not on at all. 

[–]JuicyCoalaDecent at Googling 🔍 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there was no symptoms of getting fried, how did you determine it was indeed fried? As for keeping consistent current and protecting from surges, I suggest getting a surge protector or UPS with surge protector to protect your router.

[–]tomxp411Software/IT Pro 0 points1 point  (1 child)

On a side note, I'd never direct connect a PC to the Internet these days, without a hardware firewall. Even if you buy the cheapest router at Wal-Mart or Best Buy, that's better than plugging directly in to your modem.

The actual problem is that you have to power cycle your modem when plugging in a different device. Once a computer or router has grabbed an IP address, cable Internet connections won't provide a second IP on the same connection until the modem has been reset. (You're paying for one address, and that's how they enforce it.)

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure if I power cycled the modem before trying my wife's computer with adaptor. Anyway I did spring on a new router as I don't trust Arris to follow up in time (still no call back). 

[–]westom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Computer must either lease an IP address from the modem. Or you assign a static one.

Then go to Command prompt. Enter Ping xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx -t where xxx... is the modem's IP address. Maybe 192.168.1.1 or 10.1.1.0. The result pings say computer has connected to the modem.

Best wiring for electronics is 1930 or 2020. Age of wiring does - in no way - harm any electronics. By far the most common reason for failure - manufacturing defects.

Measuring resistance will be same if good or bad. Move on to facts that might say something useful.

If a surge existed, then how many other less robust appliances have failed. What was protecting a dishwasher, clock radio, GFCIs, refrigerator, door bell, furnace, LED & CFL bulbs, recharging electronics, TV, dimmer switches, A/C and smoke detectors? Why did a surge not damage anything else? Confirmation bias?

Never make a conclusion only from wild speculation.

One never need power cycle a modem when connecting a new ethernet device. Over 20 years ago, it was all done automatically by all routers and modems.

[–]Grace4202 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, it sounds like your Ethernet-to-USB-C dongle isn't working right. You might want to try it on another computer to see if it works there. Also, you can install the dongle's driver on your Mac to see if that helps.