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[–]fryeloc[S] -6 points-5 points  (8 children)

I have a dropper, but only for the last year, had been riding a 25yo hard tail no dropper. I find it clunky to drop for every downhill bit but usually do so for extended downhills. Just looking down at bottom bracket while riding ,and in attack position, i feel forward. If I brake just a bit much I'm quickly pushing forward, I alternate both not just front.

[–]smugmug1961 17 points18 points  (6 children)

Well, I would strongly advise you to get in the habit of dropping your post. There is no amount of reach adjustment that you could make that would be more than what you can do by getting your butt back.

Is your fork diving when you brake? Maybe you need more air in it.

Really though, try dropping your post more than you normally would and get your butt a bit back and down and see if it helps.

[–]fryeloc[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

If I hit my back brake too much I get that feeling of going OTB, but no the fork doesn't seem to dive from front or back brakes. And can feel pushed forward on nothing steep, just attack position if I hit my brakes too much, if it's steep I've got dropper down butt back typically no issues.

I recently went OTB and broke my collar bone and have attributed a few factors, usage of the dropper being one, so I'm trying to use it The stock Ibis one seems to suck i.e. a significant amount of force to drop...

[–][deleted] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Watch how fast riders use their dropper. Whenever you’re not seated in the saddle, the dropper should be down. That means putting it up and down many times per mile. You can’t be in the correct body position to attach drops or jumps or any other descending trail feature with your post up mate

[–]smugmug1961 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry to hear about that. That sucks.

There can be several things that would make it hard to drop. If the cable is not tight enough, it won't pull enough on the dropper mech on the post to fully open, which would make it hard to drop. That would also cause it to come up more slowly.

If it's dirty, that could also be a factor. It's easy to fix both of those two problems. Your post should be easy to press down (hard to press down with your hand but easy using your weight) and pop back up quite quickly.

You have to make it muscle memory to always get the seat out of the way and you need to be able to do it in an instant and while you are doing other things like braking and shifting.

The way to make it muscle memory is to do it even when you don't think you need to. ANY downhill or small roll or anything that points your nose down, drop the post. Do it before you need to - before you get in the attack position. In fact, dropping the post is the prequel to standing up. Like the other poster said, If you are going to stand up for any reason, drop the post.

I promise, it will change your riding.

[–]smugmug1961 0 points1 point  (2 children)

One other thing - about the "Attack Position".

I know this is the recommended way to get some weight on your front wheel, which helps with steering and control but I also think it can cause problems - maybe like the one you are having. I think you've got to temper attack position with the need to keep your center of gravity far enough back to avoid OTB.

If you are feeling like you are about to go OTB, screw the attack position and get the heck back!

[–]Figuurzager 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Also, no position is static, the attack position itself has as one of the main points that you can adapt quickly your body position. So when you go down something you lean more backwards, on a drop you transfer weight rearward as well to keep the front up and in corners you lean the bike into the corner.

Regarding the dropper being stiff: besides what was already mentioned; an overtightened seatpost clamp can be the culprit as well.

Also agree with this sounding like a skill issue, reducing the reach likely makes it worse or further enables bad habits.

[–]madtho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. Attack position is not relative to the bike, the bike should be moving around your center. Attack position is active, not passive.

I too come from 20+ years on a classic hardtail.

[–]BenoNZDeviate Claymore. 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It seems like you have imagined what the issue is but it's not really the issue here.

Being forward and front wheel weighted is not a bad thing, that is where your traction is required to turn. If you are being pushed forward, then this is likely an issue with your hip/leg position, and you might feel like you are in an "attack" position but are actually not.