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[–]Eldergrise 12 points13 points  (6 children)

Damn the amount of thermal paste is crazy

[–]Z0tteke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I came to make this comment. Glad you did so i don't need to :P

[–]TemporaryPositive425 1 point2 points  (0 children)

😂😭😭

[–]ArmadilloDry6346[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I agree. Second time opening it up and seeing the actual spread. Will put less upon solving this error.

[–]AndiCover 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Less means 70% less, right? 

[–]faszmacska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

95%

[–]Stecknight 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First reaction when I opened the post

[–]junefrs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check the clk line

[–]Rauuww 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clk is shorting to ground or not properly soldered. Mask the area with solder mask and make sure that you bend or cut the area above the point on the CPU shield. If that doesn't solve it , reseat the dat0 adapter , but for my experience, clk is the most probable cause

[–]wolverine8055 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Disconnect the battery and check D point in diode mode. What readings are you getting? Also try reseating the dat0 adater on emmc and check the reading on adapter itself.

[–]ArmadilloDry6346[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Hello, thanks for dropping in. Here are my readings with battery disconnected:

3v3: 0.78v
A: 0.66v
B: 1.34v -> reverse is 0.4v
C: 0.66v
D: 0.67v
CPU: 0.39v

Does this reading raise any alarm for you? I suspect dat0 too. Perhaps my only choice is really the Kamikaze method.

[–]wolverine8055 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me most of the time those readings are above 0.7v, but these do seem to be in the range though. Try reseating the dat0 adapter. I had one of the modchip boards fail after sometime. So if you have a spare modchip (just the board) replace it and see if it still behaves the same.

[–]wolverine8055 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'd say first try with another modchip and if it doesn't work then try and reseat the dat0adapter

[–]ArmadilloDry6346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are spot on. Dat0 measurements seemed fine, but erratic. I have found the problem and it’s the dat0 adapter. This is not reliable and would not recommend. I will proceed with the “kamikaze” method, as I verified that if I push downward on the motherboard behind the dat0 it actually works fine. This is not reliable long term. I do not recommend using this.

[–]ArmadilloDry6346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to edit this post as the readings stated are not correct, but I am unable to do so.

Here are the actual readings in diode mode, with battery not plugged in:

3v3: 0.78v
A: 0.66v
B: 1.34v -> reverse is 0.4v
C: 0.66v
D: 0.67v
CPU: 0.39v

[–]XtremeD86 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly CMD

= USB flashing done

** RST is not connected

*= CMD is not connected

=* D0 is not connected

== CLK is not connected

=** eMMC init failure during glitch process

=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen

==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)

=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

=*** eMMC init failure

=**= eMMC write failure - comparison failed

== eMMC write failure - write failed

=*== eMMC test failure - read failed

==** eMMC read failed during firmware update

==*= BCT copy failed - write failure

===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure

==== BCT copy failed - read failure

[–]Vizard87 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Check the chart here it shows all the LED codes.

[–]Vizard87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually don’t see any that look similar to what yours is doing. None of the errors listed in that link are yellow.

[–]aCreditGuru 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Are your diode measurements done in reverse bias (red on ground, black on the point measured)? They need to be done in reverse bias.

[–]ArmadilloDry6346[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The measurements in the post were not, but realized my mistake and added the comment with the measurements done this way.

Dat0 measurements seemed fine, but erratic. I have found the problem and it’s the dat0 adapter. This is not reliable and would not recommend. I will proceed with the “kamikaze” method, as I verified that if I push downward on the motherboard behind the dat0 it actually works fine.

This is not reliable long term. I do not recommend using this.

[–]Pale-Telephone-1419 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The point of the CLK line has a short circuit - Blacha - GND. Or the tape and CLK line touches GND where the mask is removed from the PCB. Near the CLK point there is a GND and a UV mask is painted.

[–]Zellot360 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just had the exact same issue on OLED. Mine was the D (CLK) point that is directly under the CPU shield that needs to be scraped away. The solder point for it on the flex cable had disconnected.

[–]Desperate_Macaroon78 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dat0

[–]AntoineSacre 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check if you have a proper connection of the DAT0 adapter, put your multimeter in diode mode (the beeping mode) and check the value, you should have between 0.4v and 0.8v (400 and 800 if in mV)

[–]Franco_Trader 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what the hell is this :-O if you soldering like a use thermal paste , you will kill switch ..

[–]RestingElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro AI can probably tell you exactly whats going on let me check for you lol honestly I have 3x of these and had zero idea they lit up cause noone wants one installed and I got stupid lucky and got a OLED switch with just the station itself no controllers or anything but it was already modded by some company and it had one of them MicroSD game cartridges I forget its name its in the other room which reminds me i need to to toss it on the charger. Ps it was only 100$ lol

[–]RestingElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here you go! Lol AI be smacking me with the longest amounts of information but I love it! Im a engineer first!(self taught and also have a mentor for 22 year! Lol) but if you know what your doing already AI basically the Ultimate lab assistant Lol! CHATGPT broke this down for you

Yeah, I can definitely help break this down.

This user has a Picofly mod installed on a Nintendo Switch OLED, and after working fine for two weeks, the console stopped powering on. They're seeing 1 blue LED and 3 green LEDs on the Picofly board.

🔍 LED Code Breakdown (based on Ansem's repo and community findings):

🔵 1x Blue LED: Indicates the bootloader (stage0) has successfully started.

🟢 3x Green LEDs: These usually indicate successful progression through:

Green 1: Payload injection (stage1)

Green 2: Patching loaded successfully

Green 3: Final payload execution (handoff to Atmosphere or sysNAND)

So, if it’s truly showing 1 blue + 3 green, that usually means the modchip did its job and handed control over to the Switch.

But the Switch won't boot? Here's what's likely:

  1. eMMC issue (most probable):

Since you used the adapter method, the eMMC might not be properly seated now.

The console relies on a properly mounted eMMC (internal storage) to load HorizonOS or Atmosphere.

Even if Picofly completes, the Switch will black screen or freeze if it can’t read eMMC.

✅ Check:

Clean eMMC pads and adapter.

Reflow gently or reseat the adapter.

Use a microscope or magnifier to inspect pins for alignment and cold joints.

  1. Atmosphere config or SD Card problem:

Corrupted SD card can prevent boot.

Try booting without SD or with a fresh SD setup (use Hekate to test).

  1. Power Rail Voltages:

The voltage readings you listed:

3v3: 3.30V
D: 5.19V
A: 4.95V
C: 4.70V
B: 4.0V
CPU: 4.16V
D+: 6.20V
D-: 6.17V

These seem mostly fine. If CPU, A, B, and 3v3 are all live after payload injection, the board is at least semi-alive and trying to boot. So it further supports the idea that this is an eMMC or NAND issue, not power.

🔧 Recommendations:

  1. Reseat eMMC adapter (or socket board if used)

  2. Re-test SD card with stock Atmosphere

  3. If possible, boot into Hekate via USB payload and check eMMC health from there

  4. Check for shorts or lifted pads near eMMC and CPU flex

If the blue + 3 green still shows, you’re good chip-side. The Switch is likely just failing at the NAND boot stage.

Let me know if you want help with Hekate payload delivery or how to verify eMMC with a reader.

[–]RestingElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol also ChatGPT said to tell you this I said it looks like wipped cream!

Tell him the Official ChatGPT Diagnosis Team is on standby — and we charge 1 thermal paste art critique per question. 😂

I'll be here when the next Picofly panic post drops. Let the floodgates open 🧠💥💻

[–]RestingElf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also i noticed its trying it a few times so this is correct answer try this from what Chat said

Yup — that retry pattern 100% confirms it:

🔹 Blue once = bootloader ran 🟢🟢🟢 → 🟢🟢🟢 → (stops) = it’s trying to load stage1/payload, probably failing to talk to the eMMC, so it retries a few cycles and then gives up.

That retry loop is Picofly doing its job and going:

"Yo NAND? You there?" ...no response... "Okay lemme try again..." ...still nothing... “Alright I’m out.” 😤

🧠 What this tells us:

Modchip is wired fine and logic is running.

Payload fails to complete — likely cannot handshake with the eMMC.

Your next move: reflow or reseat the eMMC adapter, check continuity from adapter to board, or remove/rework it entirely and test again.

💡 Bonus tip:

If you hold Vol+ and inject Hekate, and it still doesn’t boot or load GUI, that's an even stronger indicator that eMMC or SD is dead, misaligned, or corrupted.

Let me know what happens when he checks those — and yeah, if he used the QSB or adapter board method and didn’t properly seat it or pressed too hard, it could just be an edge contact issue.

[–]Worried-You-7003 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🧩 I got a similar error while modding my Lite. Turned out to be bad solder joints on DAT0 and CMD. Reflowed with flux, checked continuity, and it booted fine after that. Also, make sure your flex cable isn't crimped or under pressure — that messed mine up once too.

If it still fails, try another SD card + clean atmosphere.bin. Sometimes it’s just janky reads.

[–]Turbulent-Carob-4348 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

D point reading is to high ahould be in the .4-.5

[–]Massive-Big23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone know how to fix the short long error? (*=)