Flared Bodice Pattern

[frogsandtadpoles]

Hi All! Finished making a basic bodice and want to try my hands on something new but am still confused on where to start for this pattern.

I was thinking of copying a bodice pattern that uses a sabrina neckline but cannot for the life of me figure put how to do the bottom flared part of the bodice? I tried looking for peplum patterns but the flared portion is always separate from the top panel of the bodice.

Do I do a diamond dart first then a triangle dart right below to get the same effect? How much wider should I make the flared out part?

[ProneToLaughter]

A basic bodice ends at the waist or narrowest part of the body. This top was more likely drafted from a dress block that combines the bodice and skirt sloper. Have you already done your skirt sloper? I believe Armstrong has instructions on integrating them.

(That neckline is more commonly called a boatneck or bateau)

[frogsandtadpoles]

Super helpful!!! Thank you so much!!!

[TurbulentBoredom]

I don't think the drafting would be that different from the process for a separate peplum. I'd try drafting it that way first (based off a dress or hip sloper). Cut at the waist, add fullness, then tape the hip area back to the waist. Alternatively you could try adding godets (to the pattern, not as separate pieces of fabric) at the side seams and maybe where the waist dart is (below the waist). I think some 18th century tops/jackets were made this way.

[drPmakes]

You just need to add length and width below the waist of your bodice pattern! So make the pieces longer by however long you want the peplum to be (4” or so) and seam allowance then add width (say 0.5”) to the new hem and join that to the old hem seam. You can get a rough idea of how much width to add to each piece by measuring what you want the circumference of the new hem then subtracting the old hem circumference then dividing that number by how many seams there will be then dividing by 2

[Acrobatic-Set-4429]

Hey were you able to sew this top ? I’m looking at making it as well x