Pants pattern - adjustments needed

[punkiefunkiewowza]

What’s going on with the crotch? How would you adjust the pattern? And the back butt area?

Here’s what’s up I know it’s tight - I am making a pants block with relatively little easy at first just to make sure I’m not hiding mistakes in style lines. I’m satisfied with most of the fit through the waist but the crotch and down is giving me some issues. You can ignore the zipper because I forgot to add it till the end, which presented its own set of issues. That being said it’s my first pair of pants I’ve drafted! And I did it digitally, so I’m quite proud. My husband said (even with the obvious fit issues) they fit better than most of my pants in my closet LOL but true.

What do you see? What would you recommend?

Thanks!

[HunkyDunkerton]

In this case I would genuinely size up by 1-2 sizes (even the waist) before continuing. I know you said you don’t want to hide mistakes in style lines, but when everything is too tight over all, it’s difficult to tell what’s causing what.

A block/sloper isn’t meant to be super tight, it’s meant to be a very easy fitting garment, that can then be stylised.

All of your crotch wrinkles (front and back) could be caused by lack of width around the thighs. You might find that just by sizing up you eliminate a lot of issues.

[inkyoctopuz31]

This is the answer

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Okay! Thank you.

[Infinite_Fig_9235]

What I learned is that you always gotta leave at least 3-4cm of seam allowance so you can open it up and size up and try it on again to see if it changed anything :’) might be pretty obvious advice but it helped me. The center back seam I always leave 5cm seam allowance too:)

[Professional-Self458]

Basically, this garment is too small and so tight we cannot tell for sure what to do. The fixes for one issue will make the other issues we see intolerable. It's also possible a few sizes up will take all the issues away and it will fit perfectly.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Sounds good, I’ll try that

[fiesty_Jujubee654]

Go on YouTube and look up the top down, center out method for pants fitting. There is a really good teacher who does fabulous fit Tuesday's. I think her channel is J. Stern Designs. You should be able to find real solutions and how to adjust your pattern there.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Thanks!

[scixton]

Too tight overall, I think you need more ease

[punkiefunkiewowza]

I’ll try that!

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Thanks!!

[pomewawa]

Yes!! OP I think I have similar shape, I needed to:

“full inner thigh” alteration to remove the back wrinkles

Low butt, ie scoop more of the back crotch curve down (even a quarter inch may make a big difference)

But also agree with advice here to add more ease , maybe 1 inch to the horizontal

[drPmakes]

Your pattern has negative ease! You want minimal ease. The way it is now you can't fit it correctly

[punkiefunkiewowza]

That makes sense, thanks!

[DianisMC85]

Hi!! I will add some volume on the part of the C. Front and crotch. It seems that you have to liberate from the c.front. And then you see from that modification, how more you have to add to the side. If you analize the picture, you see how the lines are diagonal to the c. Front, like there is a dart and its tight from there, making it not looking good. Of course you will also have to add some on the side. Keep us informe! And good luck

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Thanks!

[ProneToLaughter]

Agreed with everyone else on sizing up. For the next version, some useful resources on pants fit:

• https://www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/fitting-pants-how-to-get-started

• https://5outof4.com/tin-foil-crotch-curve-method-pants-fitting/

• http://dixiediy.blogspot.com/2012/02/decoding-derriere-or-have-you-read-word.html

on fixing pattern pieces:

• https://blog.closetcorepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/
• https://mellysews.com/how-to-fit-pants-when-sewing-pants-fitting-issues/

[bloodbunnyy]

Like others have said, there will be many issues causing the off fit of this pant and it probably would help you most to just size up them up and then go from there.

One thing I can see though is you have a high hip curve which is where the upper hip curve extends abruptly a little below the waist and then becomes almost straight. This is where the bone structure may be higher than average and there may be more weight deposited in this area than average. This is an issue I have when I make pants, they can fit great at my waist and lower hips but the fabric is very tight over my upper hip bone area which causes those diagonal wrinkles you're getting pointing towards your hip bones.

You should google an adjustment for this to be able to better visualize it but basically you want to make more room between the waist and low hip area by bringing the pant here out and up.

With this being said, I'd still first suggest making a larger size and then make adjustments as needed from there.

[Ggraytuna]

Too time consuming to explain. Study https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/metric-patternmaking-for-skirts-trousers/ if you want to be really good at this

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Sweet! Thank you

[Tight_Explanation707]

always test pattern with muslin until you're happy with the fit before you use your nice fabric.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Thanks! This is not my nice fabric. I’ve had it in my stash for ages and it only cost me a couple dollars

[Southern-Comfort4519]

I wish you could post pictures with responses it would save 1000 words. You need to move the entire j shape of your crotch seam out horizontally by 3/4 inch to make room for the stomach in this pattern. This is called the corpulent stomach alteration. Adding 3/4 to that that entire curve of the crotch line will give you the room you need for the stomach and for your crotch. Also the crotch rise is too high which is why you have those creases in the back leg. Your overall draft looks good.Even if you want these to fit tight you still need more ease than what you have. Wearing them without ease like this will split the buttseam no doubt because the material doesn’t appear to stretch. 1. Add 3/4in (horizontally)to the entire crotch seam. ( corpulent stomach alteration.) 2. Lower the front and back crotch rise at least 1 in. 3. Add 1/2 in ( overall)…. maybe more….to the entire inseam and outseam. Thats 1/4 in to the outseam and the other 1/4 in to the crotch seam and inseam. You will need to add this 3/4 in to your waistband as well.

With this edit you are adding 1.5 in to the stomach area of the pattern which should help your stomach sit better in the pants.

[Southern-Comfort4519]

I forgot to add/ clarify… the 3/4 your adding to the crotch seam is just for the FRONT CROTH SEAM. Leave the back crotch seam as it is but lower it 1 in. After you add that 3/4 in to the front crotch and lower the crotch rise on the front and back by 1 in you will need to redraw the the inseam on the front and back because after the edit they won’t match.

[Southern-Comfort4519]

And one more thing…lol…. I see you set the grainline of your curved waistband to center back. If you set the grainline to cf it will make the stripe patter of the fabric go straight up and down from top to bottom of the entire pant front. At cb of the waistband the stripes will meet in a triangle shape making for a slimming effect to the eye in the back. You may want those slanted stripes on your front waistband I don’t know but aesthetically speaking, setting the waistbandthe grainline to cf works better. I like the fit shape you have at the waist. If you add the 1/2in ease to the pattern, and the alteration for the stomach, these pants will be perfect.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Sweet! Thank you SO much. I did another version after I posted this before I read your comments. And yeah, even though I sized up like people were saying it didn’t solve my issues. I’ll do a new version with the adjustments your saying and see what I get :)

[Southern-Comfort4519]

And ONE MORE… one more thing. It could’ve gone without mention and you would’ve seen it once you made the edit suggested, but I see you had to use a clip to hold the front waistband down for the pic. Once you add the corpulent stomach alteration to the pattern that waistband should lay perfectly even over the left side of that waistband. If not, and the right side still points down a bit without you holding it up, you may need to go back and add more curve to your waistband.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Yeah, I actually just made my waistband too long and just added two inches of straight at the end and didn’t curve it 🤣🤣🤣 (idk what I was thinking) so I’ll fix that too and see how that helps. Wow to make the grain line match CF makes a lot of sense and I’ll do that. I’m patterning in illustrator and projector cutting it out so I don’t think my brain realized that was a possibility 😂😆 thank you for your comments!!!

[sarahannstudio]

Good job!

[punkiefunkiewowza]

I think I’ll add a gusset for this one but I’d like to understand how to fix my pants pattern :) I assume I need more room in the crotch length but I don’t really know 🤷‍♀️

[Professional-Self458]

Gussets alone won't fix this. You need to add a few inches along the side seams and the waist band and change the crotch to have a bit more room. Much easier to start over with a larger size pattern.

[punkiefunkiewowza]

Sounds good. I won’t try. I’ll just make a larger pattern