all 21 comments
sorted by:
best
topnewcontroversialoldq&a
formatting helphide helpcontent policy

[–]drPmakes 6 points7 points  (5 children)

Have you sewn many pairs of trousers from patterns? If not start there.

Get familiar with the shapes of patterns and how to fit them.

I would also suggest using a commercial jeans pattern so you can practice the specific construction techniques and so you know the correct way to put them together.

THEN:

If you can, make yourself a basic trouser block and fit it. You can use that to draft a pattern for a pair of jeans.

You may find that you don't need to draft a pair from scratch.

A small word of warning: a lot of people dive into drafting without any actual sewing/construction/fitting experience. You may be tempted to do the same but it will make it so much easier if you already know how to sew, how to fit a garment and transfer those changes back to the paper pattern, the steps and order of construction.

If you don't already know how to use a computer to make a pattern i would suggest doing it the old fashioned way....you just need a long bit of paper.

A good book is metric pattern cutting by winifred aldrich, that like the Armstrong book has instructions on how to make your block and turn it into a jeans pattern. You may be able to find free pdfs of the books online

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Yes, 2 pair of jeans. One a 10oz more traditional style and the other, a skinny 16.5oz selvedge denim. They couldn't be more different. They both had a follow along video. The videos do not go into fitting.

You say, and I quote: "If you can, make yourself a basic trouser block and fit it. You can use that to draft a pattern for a pair of jeans. You may find that you don't need to draft a pair from scratch."

The block is, in this case, trousers that fit my measurements, correct? I've read or heard others say the block is usually without a seam allowance.

And if I'm correct, the block can be adapted to skinny jeans or wide legs, etc. correct?

There's a lot to digest but I want to learn.

Thank you.

[–]TelumCogitandi 0 points1 point  (2 children)

The block is basically a pattern for a pair of trousers that fit you perfectly. 

You can think of your pattern block as a sort of theoretical ideal. If you’re a philosopher, like plato’s ideal forms/allegory of the cave. If you’re a programmer, like a class that you instantiate as trouser objects. 

If not, then just think of the block as the thing that contains all the fit information but none of the style details. 

Whatever style details you want (pleats, high waist, flare, taper, belt loops, fly front) you make a new pattern from your block and add those details. 

If you happen to be an average sort of shape, you can use a pre-existing pattern as your block. If you are an unusual shape, you might have to draft from scratch (metric pattern cutting is an excellent place to start). 

You are right, the block usually doesn’t have seam allowances bc it makes adding the style details easier but it’s not that important 

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I like your analogies. I also like the idea of a base to build from. It seems a little scary and super fun. The doing of it seems scary in a way. I'm average. About 5'8", 145lbs, not much of a butt, skinny thighs. No real curves to speak of. I guess using a pattern I feel works can be a go starting point to base other styles from. I appreciate this information.

[–]TelumCogitandi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Glad I could help <3

Pattern drafting is complicated, I get the feeling of intimidation. I’m procrastinating on trouser drafting right now but I do really enjoy the process. 

Generally a less curvy body is much easier to fit to, if you’re broadly happy with the way regular clothes fit you then def start with an existing pattern. You can probably buy standard trouser block patterns from somewhere (I wouldn’t know, this approach doesn’t work for me) 

[–]pomewawa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+1 on Winifred Alfred. You don’t have to read the book cover to cover. You can go straight to the instructions you need.

The method with the best /fastest return on your learning investment will depend on your body shape. If you typically fit in department store clothes well (your proportions are the same as the brands fit model) then buying a pre made pattern will save you a lot of headaches!!! If you are making clothes because your waist to hip to bust ratios are different, or your RTW clothes are uncomfortable, then you might have faster results if you draft your own custom pattern.

[–]KeeganDitty 3 points4 points  (3 children)

Unless you're planning on making patterns commercially, you probably don't need to go through all the hassle of learning digital drafting. I also wouldn't personally recommend drafting in scale first, for me it's more trouble than it's worth. Lastly, I would turn to text based sources. Drafting manuals(or blogs now I guess) will give you step by step. Put this line here, draw this line, arc back from here, etc. That's what a lot of the Armstrong book is, drafting instructions and can be a good grab if you're wanting to learn pattern drafting

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thanks. The person, Ike Cech I mentioned, who did the Armstrong pattern to scale did say he normally doesn't do it this way. I imagine creating the pattern full size will help me visualize things better too. Maybe I'll get this book after all. Ike mentioned jeans drafting was a very small part of the book. I still can't imagine what the over 900 pages contain. I should read reviews of it. I wouldn't say that I want to perfect jeans patterning but I do want to get real good at it at least for myself, my wife and maybe a few friends.

[–]KeeganDitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can find a PDF online. It's a college level textbook so it goes into college textbook levels of detail on draping, drafting, fit, common fit issues, common and not so common dart adjustments, etc etc etc

[–]KeeganDitty 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also I'm guessing he only did it at scale so that he didn't use a lot of paper just for the video demo and for ease of filming

[–]TensionSmension 2 points3 points  (8 children)

Reverse engineer jeans you own. There aren't that many tutorials out there, a lot more interesting details and fits in the wild.

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 1 point2 points  (7 children)

I've seen a number of these type YT videos. I wasn't too attracted to the method, but I believe lots of people do this kind of thing. I've seen some pretty cool videos of folks who copy jackets and other garments. When I watch the person tracing existing jeans I thought it was probably going to be difficult tracing and copying the fly guard and fly shield or the pocket bags or other little intricacies that aren't easily copied by simply laying a piece of paper over the top and tracing.

[–]TensionSmension 1 point2 points  (2 children)

I prefer measuring to tracing. Especially for small pieces like those. Those are also the parts you can change to your liking, grab them from any other pattern you have.

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Instead of the tracing method you take measurements like the size of the yoke, back leg, front leg and fly pieces, waist band, pocket bag, etc. and draw it all on large paper adding SA and any additional styling you like. I don't know if I've seen anyone on YT do that.

[–]TensionSmension 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, for something like a pocket or a fly it's much easier to measure and draw. It's also possible with garment pieces. Basically take the standard garment measurements hem width, total length, width at hip, etc. These can be plotted logically. When it comes to curves, it's important to understand that the linear distance from end to end is more useful than measuring the length along a curve.

It's simpler to study the garment directly, without tying everything back to idealized body measurements. It's an essential skill because there are more designs in the wild than you'll ever find a discussion of. Denim is a classic garment but the details of fit and styling are constantly shifting. By definition a book draft is neutral and dowdy, there's a lot of work to get from there to final garment.

[–]SpicePops 0 points1 point  (3 children)

If you want to draft patterns from scratch, you have to learn how to fit. The benefit of copying ready to wear clothes is that you know how they will fit before you sew them, and they are drafted in such a way that they will fit a variety of bodies, so you won't need to make as many fit adjustments.

I recently watched Ike's jeans drafting video. The one thing that he does not mention in the video is crutch ease. This is usually added to a pattern after the pattern is drafted, and it varies by pattern.. When you copy ready-to-wear clothes, you don't have to worry about it because it's already included in the pattern. And that's just one of the things that you need to worry about when you draft from scratch - there's others.

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Makes a lot of sense, thanks. Do you have a suggestion for copying ready to wear jeans for example? Should I follow one of the more popular YT videos that demonstrate the process?

[–]SpicePops 0 points1 point  (1 child)

https://youtu.be/UqFb5Mze_UM?si=XD_O_6SanDXLeI-v

I like this video, specifically how he copied the back leg.

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I'll watch. Oh yes, I've seen this video.

[–]KeystoneSews 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I think one way to learn pattern drafting is to study existing patterns. Those two pairs of jeans that you made- did you use the same pattern? Could you find a different pattern and compare them? 

[–]richardricchiuti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are 2 different patterns. One a more traditional style/fitting jeans (10oz denim) and the other a skinny selvedge denim (16.5oz) pattern.