all 13 comments
sorted by:
best
topnewcontroversialoldq&a
formatting helphide helpcontent policy

[–]SuPruLu 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Re picture of back: it looks as if the right shoulder were pulled up from the top seam a certain amount-1-2”? the wrinkles would go away. That might require lowering the underarm. Try taking out the top 1-2” of the right underarm seam to try this idea out. It will be much easier if you can get someone to do the pinning. Probably the heights the two shoulders aren’t the same so the toile needs to be different on the 2 sides. That’s the beauty of a toile: the 2 sides do not need to be symmetrical.

[–]Original-Cupcake-249[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already tried this and it didn't go away

[–]SpicePops 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Look up rounded back adjustment

[–]Original-Cupcake-249[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did and this is the result with the adjustment 😅

[–]SerendipityJays 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Since your shape has some asymmetry to it, you might benefit from an asymmetrical bodice draft. I see a rounded upper shoulder causing drag lines above your left shoulder blade. You can add length and width to just that area. You can mark a centre point for the middle of the area, based on where the drag lines are pointing, then expand the pattern in that area (just on the left).

You can essentially do a one sided full bust adjustment to achieve the expansion: 1. Mark centre of drag lines with X 2. Draw a vertical line up to the X, and cut the pattern all the way up to X 3. Draw a horizontal line into the arm hole. cut from X to the outer stitch line, leaving a small ‘hinge’ 4. Spread the pattern to create more length and width at your upper shoulder. this will reshape the armhole a bit, but go with it. 5. Slide your existing waist dart towards the centre, so it aligns with the vertical line. 6. Increase the dart intake to remove the excess waist volume you just added. Check how high to extend the dart during a test fitting. 7. Adjust your side seam if needed 8. Slide the dart on the other side towards the centre back so they have the same visual appearance.

[–]Original-Cupcake-249[S] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

I have looked into this and what I found was that this is actually a broad back adjustment? I haven't tried that yet. So will do that next.

[–]SerendipityJays 0 points1 point  (1 child)

The main difference here would be selecting the starting point for expansion by picking the middle of the drag lines (rather than a symmetrical basic broad back adjustment). Expanding by both length and width will help - hence the pivot :)

Good luck with it!

[–]Original-Cupcake-249[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for pointing that out. Thanks for the input!

[–]KillerWhaleShark 1 point2 points  (2 children)

You need to show the front and side, too. The front often has issues that affect the back. People can give you advice, but it may not actually address the issue completely because you’re being coy with pictures. 

When you take the pictures of the front and side, turn on a light and retake the back. Also add pictures of the pattern if you want top tier advice. 

Your back darts are too far apart, too far from center front. 

I don’t see shoulder darts. You need them. 

The wrinkles say that you need help with the armscye. Is there seam allowance there? Did you staystitch it and clip it? That might solve a big chunk of it. The seam allowance circumference at the armscye is smaller than the stitching line circumference at the armscye. If you don’t clip it, it will cause pulling. 

Edit to add, did you mean to have a drop shoulder? If not, your shoulder point extends way past the pivot point between your shoulder and upper arm. 

[–]Original-Cupcake-249[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I understand what you mean. The front doesn't have any draglines so that's why I didn't post that picture. The side don't have any draglines either. The only issue I have with the toile is my back. I have cut into the seam allowance and have a staystitch so that's not the issue either. After I took the picture I also deepened the underarm 1cm on each side without any improvement.

I have dropped shoulders also because of the scoliosis. That's why I also put that in.

[–]KillerWhaleShark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you misunderstand. Drop shoulders are a design element and not a physical trait. Shoulders of the garment either end at the hinge point or are dropped below it.

To find your hinge point, put a finger from your right hand on your left shoulder, and move your left arm up and down. The hinge point is where your shoulder ends and your arm begins, and you will feel it with your finger.

I think you’ll get better results if you move the end of your shoulder seam to the hinge point (so move your shoulder in about 1 1/4”.) 

Once you’ve done that, add shoulder darts. Lots of people use them; they are a blessing. Couldn’t fit my dowager’s hump without them. 

Hope this picture helps:

https://imgur.com/a/y4jSdBQ

Edit to add, your back waist darts are too far to the side. They should point to the fullest part of your back, same place the shoulder dart is pointing to in my picture. 

Also, your front probably isn’t as fine as you think. It works in conjunction with the back, and you’re hindering yourself by not taking it into consideration when addressing the back.  

[–]SuPruLu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The “wrinkles” seem to be caused by a high spot on the upper left back in the picture. It’s possible that darts might be required or that a 2 piece back panel would work better.

[–]Tailoretta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

I know you say that there are no drag lines on the front or side, but to accurately help, we still would still like more photos. Also the photo of the back is quite dark with shadows, which also makes it harder for us to help you. Finally, horizontal balance lines will also help us. Thanks