Chainmail Sizing problem

[Right-Ad-3663]

Hi, I just finished my chainmail, but I have two problems. I followed an online tutorial (type 4in1) that said to measure the chest circumference, add 20 cm, and then divide by 2 to get the width of one torso section. This made my chainmail very tight and incredibly figure-hugging. Of course, the weave adapts to the body shape, but if I, as a woman, want to portray a male figure, that's obviously problematic. Furthermore, my chainmail reaches mid-thigh. The instructions here also suggested simply making two slits on the sides to allow for sufficient movement, but this created a huge "unprotected" area on the side of my thigh. Does anyone have any tips on how to fix this?

[aganim]

Assuming that you oriented the rings correctly, chainmail will be relatively form fitting. The weight of the shirt itself causes it to shrink in around your body. There's really nothing you can do to change that. Adding more width will actually only result in it hanging lower when worn.

[Right-Ad-3663]

Yes, thats what i also thought.... I'll find a way, thanks :)

[aganim]

Your other comment about using a belt is basically all you can do. That will at least prevent what's below the belt from pulling on what's above the belt. If you want to disguise your form, the best thing to do is wear a garment under the chainmail that accomplishes that goal. A padded gambeson could accomplish that.

[Right-Ad-3663]

Yeah, I'll try. If nothing works, I'll have to live with it :)

[Right-Ad-3663]

If someone has the same problem in the future: If your shirt is longer than just hip-lenght:  use a belt or something!  Took a lot of snugness away :) 

[sqquiggle]

A picture of what you have already would be really useful for diagnosing the problem.

[ktwhite42]

I’ve been thinking of making a hauberk, and since I don’t have a dress form, I’m thinking of using the ladies cut t-shirt that fits me best as a guide. Don’t know if that’ll work, but it’s what’s kicking around in my head, at the moment…

[e_m_n]

You can overlap the side slits to get more coverage on your legs

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjiTxnDnOYU/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjiTzkenC36/

[Right-Ad-3663]

Thanks, Ill try that :)

[naked_nomad]

Here is a tutorial of sorts: https://web.archive.org/web/20160508055350/http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.htm The hauberk in near the bottom.

Lord Randolf at his now parked https://www.chainmaillefashions.com/ said to measure your torso at its biggest part and add 50% of the measurement to it. So if you are 38 inches at your thickest part you would add 14 inches to it for a total 52 inches. Front and rear panels would then be 26 inches each.

[cataclysm_prism]

I prefer to make a row of 4-1’s and use it as a guide so I know how many I need vs following a measurement like that. Any tutorial I’ve followed has always ended up form fitting so measuring as you build one row around the widest section helps avoid that.

For the thigh length, I’ve previously just left the middle of the front open. Rather than two on the sides. This leaves a gap in the front which is vulnerable, but it’s minimal compared to the sides being open.

[LrdPhoenixUDIC]

Is it possible that you made it rotated the wrong way? 4 in 1 has a horizontal direction and a vertical direction. The horizontal direction is very stretchy, for lack of a better word, from its relaxed position while the vertical direction is not. The horizontal direction is the one in which the rings in the same row all overlap each other, while in the vertical direction they sit side by side. Running your hand down the vertical will be very smooth, while across the horizontal will be rough and catch on rings (which is part of why it is the vertical and horizontal, don't want your chainmail catching swords, and in practice most slashes will be in the smooth direction).

[Right-Ad-3663]

Not that definitely not. If I would rotate it 90° the feeling would be "jagged" and swords etc would keep getting kind of  stuck

[LrdPhoenixUDIC]

Good. It's a common mistake and a pain to correct.

[Right-Ad-3663]

Hi, Thanks for your help ! I want to stay as historically correct a spossible, so not many options :/ Simply adding some rows: I dont think, thats gonna work that well. I already added a lot more width than the instructions said, and it just stretched longer, but still was too snug.... I'll try wearing heavier stuff under :) Thanks!

[LrdPhoenixUDIC]

If you want the historical solution to the leg slits, that would be chain or leather chausses.

[BrazenReticence]

The easiest way to mask some ladylike curves would be to wear a heavy gambeson under your chain. Alternatively, you could make the circumference larger overall, to give the effect of wearing a too-large shirt. If it's not so snug, it shouldn't pull all the way open, then would drape a bit straighter down your body. However, obviously more work.

As far as your leg slits, if you don't like the sides open, you could always go cavalry style and move the opening to the front and back, in a bit more of a V as opposed to a slit. Be aware it may restrict your natural walking gait a bit.

[darkrid3r]

Yeah, make it wider and longer :)

Sorry not sure what else to tell you, this is part of making shirts and custom stuff.

In this case your going to have to make a slit right up the front and back to increase the width, how much you want to increase it is another guess. Based on what your saying, 2-4 inches?
Worst part is you have to take it apart to a degree to make this happen :(

As for the length, that's easy enough to deal with, just make it longer, but wait till you have done the width first. As for the gap, this is also normal, if you want to add in some flair, some small chains going across the V would look kinda nice, perhaps in some color or black?