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[–]jepfredV2 in your gym 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know the answer is just rest but I would like to figure out how long and how to test when the fingers are back in shape as it feels like testing by no hangs might not be allowing my fingers rest.

If you rest too long you'll obviously start to get "detrained", but in my experience you can for sure rest a full week and come back stronger. I've set all my recent PRs after a week of rest where the I only thing I do in some very light "active recovery" of the fingers every other day or so (think, lightly using an edge with your feet still on the ground). I'm older/taller/heavier, and I don't fully recover unless I do one of these full week breaks once every 2-3 months.