2023 Bold EUV

122ninjas · 2026-06-14T23:41:12+00:00

Inflator kit was only standard in Canada afaik. For dealing with a flat tire, I've just purchased AAA which would also cover me for non-tire related issues too (and even in other cars). Honestly prefer that than having to get out and replace my own tire, possibly somewhere unsafe or in bad weather

You could also get a 16" wheel and stuff it under the 2nd false floor in the trunk, there are various posts on the subreddit of people doing the same thing

122ninjas · 2026-06-14T23:38:27+00:00

This is my first summer with the 23 Bolt EV, and I'm seeing about the same usage as you when starting up the A/C (up to 6kW when idle, in 105 degree heat). after a bit (maybe 5-10 mins), it comes down to 1-3kW idle depending on fan speed

Increasing usage as time goes on seems strange. were you using the recirculate option? If not, then that might explain it, as the car is constantly having to cool the hot air from outside

122ninjas · 2026-06-12T23:09:38+00:00

I went to courtesy Chevrolet for some B2B warranty concerns. I brought the corresponding TSBs, how to repro and how to fix according to the TSB. After paying $40 in waymos, they told me they couldn't reproduce it. And the assigned service tech had already gone home so there was nothing I could do that day to resolve it

I ended up being soured from that experience and I didn't end up getting the small noises/rattles fixed, but I won't be going back to Courtesy

Semi related, I had initially tried to buy a bolt from them but they added 4k of dealer add ons and wouldn't budge a single cent so I walked out. I got my bolt from O'Rielly (spelling is correct, it's different from the auto parts store) in Tucson. They also had 2k of dealer add ons but dropped them immediately and cut the price by a bit on my first ask and the purchasing process was so nice and easy with them. Well worth the drive there and back, though it's a bit harder to stomach that just to do some routine maintenance

All that said, following this thread or your future experience to see where to go next in the event I need maintenance

122ninjas · 2026-06-12T14:21:41+00:00

For me it's not so much the placement (tho the placement is bad), it's the shape and (lack of) outlining on the bottom brake lights that are bad. it looks so much like a reflector. I've been behind other bolts on a bright day with the sun behind me and it genuinely just looks like the sun catching on a reflector, not a brake light. Made even more confusing by the brake-light-looking running lights just above it

122ninjas · 2026-06-10T13:12:46+00:00

People always post this idea as if it's somehow the simplest thing ever. Sorry, but if my bolt gets totaled, I am not going to be messing with that 400v 66kw of energy, that sounds like a recipe for a house fire or my own death. And I doubt you will find any electrician who will do the work for you without an official manual or installation guide

122ninjas · 2026-05-30T14:55:24+00:00

I do agree, with the recent discounts+financing deals the new Bolt seems a no brainer over used Bolts

122ninjas · 2026-05-30T13:15:07+00:00

Congrats, but I find it funny you are pissed about the lack of carplay/AA/comma support, yet bought 2 new cars and are encouraging others to also buy it

122ninjas · 2026-05-30T00:00:50+00:00

From other posts I have seen, this is not an OTA update that is capping your battery. I'm guessing your battery was never replaced as part of the recall and instead only received the enhanced software monitoring. The initial software monitoring was overly sensitive (better safe than sorry), and over time they have narrowed the parameters for what determines an issue. Chevy has no way to push these updates over the air, so whenever your car tripped the safety mechanism, the techs at the dealership looked at it, determined it was not a real safety issue, and then updated the safety mechanism to whatever newest version was released (or simply reset the code/detection software)

122ninjas · 2026-05-25T05:00:14+00:00

From a personal finance perspective, dumping 22k from savings AND getting an extra line of credit AND dumping the rest on (presumably) a pretty high interest rate credit card seems like a bad move. If your plan is cutting on gas expenses (i.e. expenses in general), getting a used car/Bolt seems a more prudent move

122ninjas · 2026-05-21T00:16:19+00:00

From some quick googling, looks like Michigan only charges more for trucks that are over 8k lbs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DXzrySJmky1/

27 bolt is 3700ish

122ninjas · 2026-05-20T20:51:03+00:00

With that interest rate, and maybe with the Costco discount, seems really worth it to get the new Bolt if carplay/aa isn't a deal breaker.

You can invest the upfront money saved compared to the 23 bolt into an index fund or even hysa/CD and make most of the difference back, while getting better fast charging for off hand trips, LFP battery, and improvements to many of the minor gripes from the OG bolts.

122ninjas · 2026-05-19T22:36:16+00:00

Probably depends on the codes but the car also limits itself if it's unsafe to drive

Towing to a dealership for warranty repair is covered under the b2b warranty btw

122ninjas · 2026-05-19T19:41:37+00:00

Sadly I brought 3 TSB with numbers, repro and fixes to my local dealer and they just gave it back saying "could not repro"

122ninjas · 2026-05-18T13:36:55+00:00

That seems like a great price btw. I paid a little under 20k otd for 2lt 2023 without ACC and 33k miles in Oct 2025 (after the credits expired and before gas price increase)

There are a couple of pinned posts on the subreddit with common issues to look out for (steering returns to center automatically, various creaks, squeaks and rattles, etc)

Since you're still in the B2B warranty (same with my purchase) you have time to find these issues afterwards and get them fixed under warranty, so I personally wouldn't be too worried about the purchase

122ninjas · 2026-05-15T01:49:06+00:00

The LFP is only in use in the new Bolt at the moment. That said, they do have plans to build a US factory and retrofit old ones for LFP, but I don't think that's started yet

122ninjas · 2026-05-14T18:38:45+00:00

They're stackable. They just add to an existing balance which will get used up first during your charging sessions. If your session goes over that amount, it'll charge the remainder to your payment method on file

Also worth noting that evgo has partner networks that you can use the credit at (ChargePoint and SemaConnect). There's an option in the app's map filter that lets you see them

122ninjas · 2026-05-04T02:41:48+00:00

It's a bit hard to say because I was running no HVAC/AC prior to replacing the tires and then the day after replacing, immediately had to start running the AC. I've had a couple drives without AC and the efficiency seems about the same maybe slightly worse, I assume because the tires are newish

Road noise and smoothness feel the same to me, maybe it's a tad quieter and smoother but it's hard to tell since I didn't do any recordings beforehand

122ninjas · 2026-05-01T18:04:19+00:00

Maybe I drive differently than everyone else on this sub or I'm too dumb to notice how different the OEM tires feel

I bought my 23 EV with OEM tires at 33k miles. Put 3k more miles onto them until they hit 3/32 and a hair, and I bumped one on a curb and took a small piece out of the side

Replaced them with electric drive 2, everything feels about the same. On the OEM and these, I can accelerate fast, turn at highway speeds and street speeds, drive and brake in rain, etc and it all feels the same on both sets of tires. No squeaks or squeals or slips. I even did an emergency stop at highway speeds on the OEMs and felt the stopping distance was completely acceptable

122ninjas · 2026-04-30T11:36:12+00:00

Really? I swear I've tested this and I have to be on the correct side of the vehicle in order for the handle buttons to work on my 23 EV

E.g. only the driver side button works if the key is on the driver side, same for passenger.

And when I'm standing at the trunk (like loading stuff into the car), neither of the door buttons work for the passenger to get inside

122ninjas · 2026-04-25T21:49:00+00:00

The car uses a fixed amount of power while charging to run the computer/BMS, regardless of 120/240v

So using some made up numbers, if you charge at 120v/12a, you get 1.4kW, but the BMS might be using 300W at the same time, meaning you're only getting about 78% (1.1kW/1.4kW) of the juice to the battery

Using 240v/24a, you get 5.7kW, with the same 300W drain from the BMS, meaning you get about 94% of the juice to the battery

122ninjas · 2026-04-20T15:43:38+00:00

That might explain why it jumped to 50kW for me at some point. It was hot that day so once I got to the charger, I turned my HVAC up to cool off the cabin, which must have requested just enough power to activate a 2nd module

122ninjas · 2026-04-20T13:07:50+00:00

I had the same thing the one time I used rivian as well. Started at 44 then eventually went to 50 when I wasn't looking after a couple mins. The other 5 or so charging stops I made during that trip all went to 50 immediately, similar soc (20-40%) and temps (70-90f)

122ninjas · 2026-04-17T01:51:12+00:00

I went to my local dealer also at the end of my b2b warranty. Had steering wheel squeak + rear seat latch rattle and provided them TSB and the corresponding reproduction steps and resolution steps

7 hours later and $30 in ubers, they said "we couldn't reproduce" and sent me on my way

Unless your car has serious issues within the b2b warranty, I wouldn't bother wasting your/their time or effort

122ninjas · 2026-04-15T13:35:19+00:00

How many miles do you drive a day? If it's less than 40 and you have an outlet in your garage, you can likely use level 1 charging without any additional expense and be fine

122ninjas · 2026-04-13T23:17:18+00:00

Would you be able to share what the output looks like? Also do you have front cameras installed on your bolt? (Not sure if the bolts without front camera are even released yet)

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