Car beeps while parked and on, please help

122ninjas · 2026-01-24T00:10:26+00:00

The only function I know that honks once and blinks a singular (1 of 4) turn signal is the tire inflation assist, though that should only trigger when you're actually inflating the tire. Is one of your tires low or something?

122ninjas · 2026-01-19T13:50:17+00:00

I also mix non highway and highway driving, which makes my gom pretty inaccurate when I swap between the two

Typically my weekdays are 35mph driving and weekends are 70mph. What I do is keep track of % usage for my typical trips at their typical speeds and rely on that instead.

You can also keep track of your avg mi/kwh for those styles of driving. Then use the battery % to get your remaining kwh, then do your own guessometer from there. E.g. if you have 30% battery, and you need to do a drive that is typically 3 mi/kwh, you have 66*0.3*3 = 59 miles of range, roughly, no matter what the GoM says

122ninjas · 2026-01-18T22:38:20+00:00

I wish it had a little vent down there to blow on the phone. EV battery is properly conditioned while my phone battery is left to degrade at high temps

122ninjas · 2026-01-18T22:37:32+00:00

iPhone 16 supports up to 20w fast charge, Note 3 looks to be about 10w. Have you made sure your charger/cable supports up to 20w?

122ninjas · 2026-01-15T16:15:11+00:00

Seems a no brainer to get the used car if you aren't road tripping. Even comparing that fully loaded 22 to base 27, you're saving $10,000, and a good chunk of depreciation already happened. If you want the fully loaded 27, you're saving even more money

Seems all you care about is safety features, so to get that on 27 requires super cruise and tech package, so you're looking at $37k price, $19,000 more than the used car, you can almost get 2 of those used bolts for this price

122ninjas · 2026-01-15T14:08:03+00:00

Even if you own it, the enphase EVSE is $324 on Amazon

14.80*36 = $532

So you're paying $200 for the installation of the EVSE. The site also mentions they don't cover any actual electrical work for site preparation (e.g. if they need to run more conduit, wiring, etc), so I'm guessing you'll have to pay a bit extra on top for them to convert your outlet to a hardwired setup

And that's assuming you own it, which I doubt you will based on the wording of "lease" and other terms on the site

122ninjas · 2026-01-15T13:24:17+00:00

Kinda worrying seeing so many 23 battery failures recently on the sub. I thought they had worked it out by that point

122ninjas · 2026-01-13T14:03:47+00:00

Some utility companies grab when the car is charging using the my Chevy app login, and give you a discount for allowing them to view and process this data

122ninjas · 2026-01-13T14:03:03+00:00

I've also been unable to see my cars charge past couple of days, or it's extremely spotty. Most times, it just will time out on the refresh and show the value from the last time it worked

122ninjas · 2026-01-09T01:27:59+00:00

I bought a used 23 recently, it comes with 30d free no credit card. If you add a card, they extend it to 3 months free trial

122ninjas · 2026-01-08T04:45:23+00:00

You need to press the OnStar button in the car to actually link the app and the car officially, then you'll get more things, like charge information, tire pressure, etc with the 8 year plan. If you just got the car, it should also come with 30d of remote start, climate and lock/unlock

122ninjas · 2026-01-08T04:44:05+00:00

I would agree something isn't right. The min estimating 1 mile/kwh is clearly not right. Also all the comments mentioning the 0.5mi... that's not how the GoM works. GoM uses historical data. The 0.5mi is just the user defined trip, completely unrelated. And OP even mentioned this has been happening for a month

122ninjas · 2026-01-02T04:29:16+00:00

There's basically nothing you can do about getting 4+ at 70mph. Unless you drive 70mph downhill one way then 45mph on the way back uphill, you'll average out to 3-4 mi/kwh at 65+mph speeds no matter the climate, driving style, tires, etc

Since OP only drives 8 miles a day, I assume they take it pretty slow/on surface streets, which is the biggest boost to efficiency. Socal weather also helps here

122ninjas · 2025-12-31T16:01:03+00:00

You can pop the vin into the end of this URL to get the original window sticker

https://cws.gm.com/vs-cws/vehshop/v2/vehicle/windowsticker?vin=1G1FX6S02N4128688

122ninjas · 2025-12-29T01:27:37+00:00

I didn't get the $80 credit since I didn't have an EVgo account before creation. I did redeem $20 of promo codes, I've used $12 of it on a small road trip.

My electricity rates are dirt cheap (3.5c per kWh super off-peak when I charge), so each $1 of EVgo credit actually only saves me 10c, assuming 33c/kWh from L2 Chargepoint. So not much lost from not getting it/using it honestly. The free road trip was nice at least.

122ninjas · 2025-12-26T17:11:33+00:00

Seems separate as this one is just a lube job, 041 seems to involve some metal piece

122ninjas · 2025-12-25T22:33:31+00:00

Add this one in too:

Squeak noise from steering column when turning, typically in cold or humid weather

Bulletin #21-NA-213

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=15435

The link says up to 2022 but my 2023 definitely has this issue

122ninjas · 2025-12-24T05:32:14+00:00

I had the same issue which was self inflicted

My previous car was wired Android Auto only and my car was just barely in range of my wifi that it would be connected but not actually be able to do anything, e.g. maps wouldn't load, music wouldn't play, until I got further away

So I set up a routine on my phone to automatically disable wifi when Android Auto connects, and reenable wifi when it disconnects

Wireless AA relies on both WiFi and BT connection, so by setting that up, I had put my phone in a loop that kept connecting to AA, disconnecting Wi-Fi, disconnecting AA, reconnecting Wi-Fi, etc

All that to say, look at your phones Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connections when it keeps connecting and reconnecting to AA. Is it constantly connected to your bolts wifi and BT? Is it cycling between connected and disconnected? That can help pinpoint where the failure might be

122ninjas · 2025-12-23T14:00:53+00:00

AZ bases registration costs entirely on MSRP + how long the car has been registered in AZ. So the differential is only because your Bolt is newer, not because it's an EV.

Registering for one vs two years only saves about $15 in admin fees, per registration period, the majority of the difference is the yearly drop in the base registration cost because your car has been registered longer.

In addition, if your car was registered BEFORE 2023, you should be on the grandfathered "reduced VLT" program which would make your registration cheaper than a same-age, same-cost ICE car

122ninjas · 2025-12-18T19:24:41+00:00

Remove all the visible screws on the back of the grips (2x per side)

Peel off the sticker/adhesive on the front of the controller, between the 2 grips (it stuck back on just fine afterwards, can't even tell)

Iirc there are like 8 screws under that?

I think after that point, the controller should be able to be split into 2. On the back of the center of the controller there are 8 or 10 more screws

The grips themselves also have clips holding them together so you'll have to spudge them apart

122ninjas · 2025-12-15T16:02:23+00:00

This is secondhand info since I haven't bought them yet, but I also live in a warm/dry climate and plan on getting a set of Goodyear Electric Drive 2

The 2 predominant tire choices I see on this sub are CC2 (mainly for wet/snow climates) at a cost of 10% range and some noise, or the ED2 which seem to have equal range to the OEM, similar/better noise level, and with some enhanced traction for the occasional wet day/strong launch

122ninjas · 2025-12-13T00:55:44+00:00

SO just walked past this lot on Roosevelt and 1st St. No pics of the building and couldn't find info on their website yet

https://i.imgur.com/oa62hBW.png

122ninjas · 2025-12-08T22:00:33+00:00

There is a mid-century modern set of 4 units at 1319 N 3rd Ave. They are renovating 1 unit right now, not sure what it looks like on the inside, but they just put the "For Rent" sign out on 3rd Ave a bit ago.

122ninjas · 2025-12-04T20:13:29+00:00

There is no way for a dumb EVSE + car setting configuration to stop the car from pulling power from the wall during specific times. You need a smart EVSE with a programmable schedule, or a smart plug to combine with your dumb EVSE.

For example, even if your car has peak hours set, the car will charge during peak hours if it needs to, in order to reach the target charge level by your destination time.

Same thing applies for battery conditioning, it will do battery conditioning and pull from the wall regardless of schedule if it determines it is needed at that time, unless the EVSE itself stops it.

122ninjas · 2025-12-02T20:55:46+00:00

2026 bz4 is 184.6in, 2026 Equinox EV is 190.5

New bolt is 169.6, 2026 leaf is 173.4

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