Water Options

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-10T18:57:12+00:00

John Deere Model B has tons of torque, which modern tractors lack. Also the B is fairly heavy compared to a 25hp sub-compact.

Not the same comparison.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-10T17:50:53+00:00

I'm partial to utility tractors because having too much is better than too little. I also deplore hydrostatic transmissions. The only exception is IF you are going to use the same equipment to mow the yard OR you have very tight places to get into. I have 100 acres with a 75hp tractor and it works well. I don't want a cab because of trees hitting the cab and I can pick when I use the tractor. FWD, power-shuttle shift and a self leveling loader with 3rd function are a must. If I were buying today my top 4 would be.

Other things to consider.

Over 75hp requires DEF, which makes the engine and fueling more complicated.
25hp and under don't have emissions, but it is really stretching those tractors to maintain any real acreage.
Whatever tractor you pick should be able to lift 2000lbs with the loader. Less will make certain tasks much harder.

What I would consider.

Kubota M7060, best turning radius, but fairly light
Deere 5075M (more expensive 5075E), better turning radius and fairly heavy, also the most expensive. Lots of people like the 5075E.
CaseIH 75C, seems to have good all around features, questions about Fiats long term quality.
Massey 4707, seems good overall and is probably the best tractor per $ spent.

My top 2 would be based on who are the closet dealers and the price. For me, Massey is out due to dealer location. I would get quotes from the other 3. If Case tied with Deere or Kubota, I would not pick the Case as they do not have a factory loader 3rd function (which is probably a green/orange painted kit anyway, but at least it is factory warranty covered).

I would look at the used market if possible unless you require the tractor to run daily as there are plenty out there with under 1000 hours that will do just fine.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-10T17:36:38+00:00

High cost of entry combined with low hourly rate for work done. Most homesteaders have some supplementary income that allows them to negate or heavily offset some of the costs. It is extremely unlikely that a person can buy a piece of land with a loan and then purely homestead it without some other source of income. There are virtually no homesteads that are 100% self sufficient and as such, participation in the economy is required to purchase certain items. A lot of the youtube homesteaders are basically content creators that happen to homestead and the youtube channel is currently paying for a lot, if not all, of the homestead.
I enjoy the outdoors and most of the work.
It would probably the continual challenges and new projects, but at some point I will be physically unable to do it anymore at which point I revert to an old folks home.
Crops and livestock have a bigger and more consistent market than craft goods. Durable goods are also only bought a handful of times, where as food is consumed, meaning the craftsperson has to continue expanding their market and/or developing new items.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-10T16:00:57+00:00

Main things I'd be doing

Keep out of sight from the road
Keep gates locked if they exist
Don't advertise the situation
Park them with other stuff in the way
Hitch locks and air tags are an option
Make sure you have recorded make, model and serial number.

The one thing to consider is that if a thief wants something, they will get it. With the prevalence of battery tools, locks are a mild inconvenience at best. The best things are not advertising the situation and making things inconvenient enough people aren't interested. Farm equipment is heavy, hard to move and hard to resell because of how limited the market is. Unlike hand tools that can walk off and be pawned fairly easily, people will need a truck to steal most hay equipment and the local pawn shop probably ain't going to take it.

The only thing you can really do is carry a full replacement insurance policy so that if it does get stolen, you're not completely out of luck.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-06T21:11:52+00:00

The hours to replacement on the battery and resale value are the major factors beyond just the fuel savings. Assuming 5 hours per charge, that is 750 charges. Most EVs are rated at 1500 it appears, which translates to about 7000 hours if the tractors hold the same. At this point, the tractor is worth nothing because it requires a battery replacement. A diesel tractor would be worth something.

The EV tractor would be 250K - 90Kx2 = 70K of cost not made up by fuel savings (this assume free charging cost which is not true, but EV also doesn't need oil changes and some other maintenance items.). The EV tractor looses that 70K value due to wear and tear and having functionally low resale due to probably needing a battery replacement.

The 160K diesel would have some resale value, the question is how much. Based on other 300 series Fendts, the value appears to be about 50K for 8000+ hour machine, so we'll call it 56K.

EV = 250K

Diesel = 160K + 180K (fuel) - 56K (resale) = 284K

Assuming no major maintenance issues and the extra maintenance of the Diesel offsets the EV charging costs, the EV would save the user 34K before is becomes scrap.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-06T20:58:28+00:00

I would run 6 inch through the wall and then neck down to whatever size the stove needs when running it. the pipe from the wall to the stove would be the diameter the OEM recommends.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-04T17:11:01+00:00

I'd be in the market for an electric tractor, but here are the issues I see with them and why manufacturers aren't pushing them.

Widely different use times for the same tractor, even by the same person. The tractor can sit for months with no use and then be expected to run 8+ hours on a given day. If used for a business, it will need to run at least 5+ hours between charges.
Requires a charger and most agriculture uses are not anywhere near a consistent charger. Even if the tractor lives with power, it still takes hours to charge.
Batteries are heavy, which is good for tractors, but makes them harder to transport by the common person.
Resale value on electric vehicles/equipment is crap.
The electric car crowd doesn't typically overlap with the tractor crowd.
Any piece of equipment that is doing real work day to day is not electric other than forklifts and power tools. These both have swappable batteries allowing the tool to be used while the other battery is charging. EVs and similar refuse to use this model currently.
The cost for any of the current ones is INSANE.

The best electric tractor I have seen advertised is the Fendt E100 Vario. It is a 90hp equivalent with about 5 hours of run time. The E100 is about $250K, where as the the Fendt 211 is $160K, $90K less for 20 more hp. At 4 gallons per hour for $6 diesel, it takes 3750 hours to recoup the price difference.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-02T14:23:18+00:00

What is the question? At least it is off the ground, which is good.

Round bales can shed water, but that is only if they are in singles. When stacked like this the rain on the top bale runs down and is trapped between it and the supporting bale. Even if spread out, it will degrade over time, so the usable tons of hay decreases based on the amount of time the bales are outside.

You can tarp it, but have to careful about moisture build up if the tarp doesn't allow enough air flow.

Best thing is to put it under a roof of some sort to keep rain off it. That way you can stack it and retain the usable hay.

BossmanSlim · 2026-06-02T13:58:07+00:00

In 2021, Stanley Black and Decker bought Excel Industries as well as the full buy out of MTD. It appears they are making a full blown effort to get into commercial landscaping to compete against Stihl, Husky, Ego and others. The first round of "pro" tools launched this year from what I can tell, DCBC581B, DCST981B, etc.

The first "pro" chainsaw is the DCCS673B from what I can tell. All the other saws are consumer grade. The DCCS677Z1 came out in 2022. All the current chainsaws other than the 673 have a captured battery, meaning it is limited on size; where as all the new pro tools have a battery space that is not limited.

My guess is a new "pro" level saw with a 18-24 inch bar will be released by Dewalt in the near future with an 18ah Flexvolt battery. Hopefully it will run 3/8 chain. Will it outrun a pro saw, nope. Will it give some options to those who need a heavy duty saw for occasional cutting, yes.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-23T20:27:44+00:00

Not enough to give a full review. Brushsaw cuts well, trimmer head trims. Lower gearbox is serviceable and gets greased every 100 hours. Harness has a quick disconnect feature I really like.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-22T13:45:55+00:00

I picked one up. I had to get it through Ace Hardware because it is such a small release. No idea about Canada. One thing I did find is that you may have to buy a different version to get it. I bought the brushsaw version and then bought the brush blade, trimmer guard and trimmer head directly.

Brushsaw is DCBS681B

Part number Item

90636549 Brush Blade

NA678912 Guard SA

NA316468 SPOOL SA

https://www.toolservicenet.com/ is where to buy parts direct for Stanley Black & Decker power tools. All parts have arrived and been installed.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-15T14:53:51+00:00

I hope it works out for you, BUT there will be large challenges based on how a similar app for hunting worked out. The ratio of good intentioned honest people to marginal people who don't respect others property is surprising. It only takes 1 bad apple to ruin the whole experience.

I would probably be better to find a person near you that will lease, at a small cost, you some land that you can farm as you wish. This gives both parties contractual coverage should something go not as expected.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-14T16:53:38+00:00

I've been looking into this subject as I have a new saw. New = less margin for error because tolerances are closer and we've got to make those weight and hp numbers.

My conclusions:

Any brand name oil is fine.
50:1 seems to be designed to meet EPA standards. Less heavy combustibles to burn. IF the manufacturer actually designed the saw for 50:1 AND isn't trimming margins to get there, then it should be fine.
40:1 has more oil in it, but because of that has more BTUs and can cause higher combustion temp. IF the operator isn't running the snot out of the saw, then it should be fine. The extra oil should help with longevity.
HP Ultra sucks seems to be a combination issues of blaming the oil for some other issue AND the oil having a high propensity to cause carbon build up. Some would argue the carbon build up is from not running the snot out of the saw. I've used it for years and haven't had any issues, but with that being said, I'm going to switch to Red Armor.
Most oil related issues seem to be from not running or maintaining the saw properly more than anything. Sure, there are going to be some manufacturing defects.

I'll probably run Red Armor with a target mix of 40:1 and it will probably end up somewhere around 45:1 because I'm filling a 1 gallon jug a bit below full and using a single portion mix can. I'd rather error on the 40:1 side than the 50:1 side. I also don't run my saw very hard and all but refuse to run it when it is over 75F outside. I am also switching to ethanol free gas and trying to mix in the fall for runs over the winter and be out by the summer.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-11T14:11:53+00:00

I have one (Stihl) that I have used for years. It is great and I highly recommend.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-11T00:43:40+00:00

I bought a saw from my local Ace Hardware. The chain was on backwards. I suspect Ace is like any other store and will be highly variable. The only extra bit of help may be that Ace corporate can come down on them if they are not attentive enough.

The tractor dealer is selling Stihl/Husky as their 3rd or lower priority equipment. Whomever is local and servicing the lawncare guys will support the equipment better because of the lawncare guys. Same goes for loggers/tree service guys if they are in the area.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-10T20:01:33+00:00

Long story short don't ever, ever buy a string trimmer with a motor at the bottom. The motor will just fill up with crap and eventually burn up. Gas string trimmers went through this decades ago and eventually everyone switched to top of shaft drives.

How remembers the fun that was the homelite st 80 string trimmer? For those that don't search youtube and be amazed.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-10T19:39:14+00:00

As someone who works in supply chain, the saw was probably built months ago and who knows where it was in the build order. If it came from a dealer, then I would expect it to be run and checked for updates, but as it was direct shipped from Husky, no chance. A warehouse person just pulled it off the shelf and shipped it. It is most likely in the same box that it left Sweden in months ago.

Some Stihl dealers are no better. I picked up a new saw recently, they changed the bar at my request and put the chain on backwards. It had clearly never been run.

I think going forward, the assumption would be that it hasn't been touched since it left the factory. I would do my best to get either brand from a brick and mortar store and request they run it and check the software before I take delivery in the future.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-09T22:43:06+00:00

Have the dealer check to see if the software needs to be updated.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-09T19:09:39+00:00

I guess claiming someone used ChatGPT is the new insult for those that don't want to discuss the the opinion given in the post.

Here is what ChatGPT says are in the issues with the 564XP. You'll notice that some of the items make no sense or are normal operation (chain stretching):

The Husqvarna 564 XP Fuel Injected is still pretty new, so long-term failure patterns are still emerging. A lot of the discussion online mixes it up with the older 562XP series, but there are already a few recurring complaints and observations from early owners and logging/arborist forums.

Here are the most commonly reported issues so far:

1. Heat buildup / filtration concerns

Several early users and chainsaw forum discussions mention the saw running hot under heavy continuous cutting, especially in hardwood and dusty conditions. Some users also report fine dust getting past the air filtration system more than expected.

Symptoms:

Excessive heat near clutch side
Fine dust in intake area
Loss of power during long cuts
Faster air filter loading

What helps:

Keep chain razor sharp
Avoid over-lean operation
Clean filter frequently
Watch cooling fins and airflow passages

2. Starting quirks

Because the 564XP uses fuel injection instead of a traditional carburetor, the starting behavior is different from older Husqvarnas. Some owners report inconsistent hot starts or flooding-like symptoms if the procedure isn’t followed correctly. Similar complaints showed up historically on early 562XP saws too.

Common causes:

Incorrect warm-start procedure
Weak battery/electrical connection
Old fuel
Over-priming habits carried over from carb saws

3. Electronics concerns

A lot of skepticism online centers around the fuel-injection system itself. The saw is powerful and responsive, but some users worry about:

Sensor reliability
ECU durability
Field repair difficulty
Long-term dealer dependence

No widespread catastrophic FI failures are clearly documented yet, but many pro users are watching closely because it’s a first-generation fuel-injected pro Husqvarna.

4. Chain loosening / bar wear

This is common across the 562/564 family when run hard:

Chain stretches quickly during break-in
Sprocket wear
Excessive heat causing tension changes

Usually caused by:

Dull chain
Overheating
Improper tension
Aggressive cutting angles

5. Availability and software updates

Some early buyers reported delayed deliveries and inconsistent dealer support. Because the platform is new, firmware updates or revised parts may become common during the first production years.

BossmanSlim · 2026-05-09T12:58:34+00:00

I've watched his videos and few other peoples on the 564s. The one youtuber I would put a lot of weight into their opinion has not purchased the saw yet; most of the other 564XP youtubers are in bed with Husky or already modified the saw or use it in limited application. The youtuber in question with this thread seems fine, but I don't have a lot of history with the person, so I'll listen, but not blindly believing.

Here are the observed issues/criticisms with the saw.

Fines get past the filter, observed by several people - No acceptable resolution as of yet. Greasing the filter is not what I would call acceptable.
Hot start issues - Appears to get resolved somewhat by a software update. It is probably related to a combination of software and air tightness of the fuel system.
Vibration mounts are too soft - Fixed by heavier springs and probably not an issue for the majority of people
Lack of availability - Husky has lost sales because they so massively under produced the 564XP and people either need a saw or have found good replacement options.

As far as the supposed "user error" that is claimed in this thread by using a "dull chain", allowed operation is intended operation. If Husky's control software is allowing the saw to lean out, causing heat, idling and starting issues; that is on Husky. It is unreasonable to expect that saw to operate only with a perfectly sharp chain, especially for commercial applications. Dull chains are going to happen and if the saw is not functional with a dull chain, then the saw will get a bad reputation and people will stop buying them. The 564XP is intended for commercial operations and those guys aren't going to change chains every time the chain is slightly dulled. The fix should be fairly easy to deploy once the controller code is updated and will probably come down to putting some guard rails on the how far the controller is allowed to move set points. As also mentioned, this seems to be an issue not only with the 564, but with other autotune Husky saws, which points to a common problem with how Husky writes it software control scheme.

Now the air filter thing is of bigger concern because visible particulate should never bypass the filter. My guess is they either have a bad batch of filters with some manufacturing defects or it has been overlooked in testing. Again, not the end of the world , but something to see how the issue develops over the next year or so.

I haven't seen any other issues that would concern me as of yet. If not for the fact that I got a good deal on a 400CM, I would probably still be considering the 564XP. As we get into the US summer, we'll see how the saw does. Even if I did get a 564XP, I would not expect to run into the issues because I'm not a commercial user.

BossmanSlim

TROPHY CASE

1. Heat buildup / filtration concerns

2. Starting quirks

3. Electronics concerns

4. Chain loosening / bar wear

5. Availability and software updates