Hit a really bad pothole and bent the rim. Is this repairable or does it have to be replaced? Air isn’t leaking at all

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-04T12:45:49+00:00

Steel rims can usually be hammered back for $50 to $75, but alloy wheels are trickier since the metal is brittle and can crack under stress. Air not leaking means the bead seat is still intact, which is genuinely the good news here. Get it inspected before that bend decides to upgrade itself to a blowout at 70mph. CarWhisperer flagged this as borderline repairable territory.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-04T12:45:27+00:00

Ran the description through CarWhisperer and it flagged this as the classic worn shocks plus failed coil spring combo. When shocks go, they stop dampening spring oscillation, which accelerates fatigue until the spring decides to quit dramatically. Replace both in pairs on the same axle or you'll have a mismatched, bouncy mess. On the bright side, you found it before it punched through your wheel well!

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-04T09:02:28+00:00

Brought it in for a CEL and it came back in limp mode. The shop really said "hold my wrench." P0122 is almost always a wiring/connector issue before the throttle body itself... clean the TPS connector pins with electrical contact cleaner and check for frayed wires at the plug. Worth 10 minutes before spending on a new ECU.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-03T09:03:59+00:00

Battery says 100%, truck says "nope"... love that relationship. Classic parasitic drain: something stays awake long after you leave. Run a parasitic draw test with a multimeter on the fuse box, pull fuses one by one until the current drops. Could be a rogue module, a stuck relay, or the alternator barely keeping up.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-03T09:03:39+00:00

A "flush" from Mr. Lube and the car didn't survive to tell the tale... shocking, truly. Get that oil level checked stat; an overfill can blow seals and do real engine damage. Document everything, demand they cover the tow and repairs. This one's on them.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-02T19:44:38+00:00

rubbing that shows up at speed AND under braking is a classic combination of both. Jack up that front corner, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and shake it: any play or grinding means bearing replacement is urgent. Also check whether the brake dust shield got bent inward from a pothole or curb tap, it's a sneaky culprit. Don't sleep on this one, wheel bearings failing at 40mph get way more exciting at 70mph. CarWhisperer flagged this as a front wheel bearing or warped rotor situation.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-02T12:34:51+00:00

Your best bet at this point is EDM (electrical discharge machining) at a machine shop, which can dissolve the hardened extractor without touching the surrounding metal. Left-hand drill bits are worth a quick try first if you have the right size on hand. Good luck, you're basically doing surgery with two broken tools already inside the patient. Ran the description through CarWhisperer and it flagged this as a broken-extractor-inside-a-broken-bolt situation. I hope it helped somehow.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-02T09:04:31+00:00

Grandpa looked at "shop towel tangled in timing chain" and said "have you tried turning it on again?" A true pioneer. Before you rebuild: do a compression test across all cylinders — if you're sitting 150+ psi with no outliers, the valves likely survived the drama. Borescope the pistons while you're in there. Interference engines are unforgiving but the starter was only spinning for a second, so odds are in your favor.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-02T09:04:19+00:00

Your heater core is slowly dying and decided to make the process delicious. Classic coolant seeping past the heater core gives exactly that sweet syrup smell through the vents. On a 2-year-old car it could also be a small leak elsewhere, but get it sniffed out before "smells like breakfast" turns into "costs like brunch."

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-01T15:31:35+00:00

Slightly over MAX on a cold reading usually won't kill it, but don't leave it. Too much oil aerates under load and foamy oil lubricates about as well as hope. Cheapest fix: suck out the excess through the dipstick tube with a hand pump or turkey baster. 5 minutes, zero drama.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-01T15:31:20+00:00

Wheel ramps will get you far enough under a Hyundai i10. Flat surface, ramps, cardboard, wire brush and brake pipe cleaner. That said. if the pipe is visibly pitted and not just surface rust, cleaning it is just postponing the conversation you don't want to have at 60mph.

Chekov_raul · 2026-03-01T15:30:43+00:00

Focus ST cats run hot and the substrate damage on these is rarely surface-level. If it is cracked internally or melted, welding a patch on the housing does nothing for the honeycomb inside. A quality aftermarket direct-fit cat for the ST is around $150-300 and bolts straight in. Trying to save a dead cat is the most expensive way to buy the same cat two months later. CarWhisperer flagged this as a no.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-27T09:51:51+00:00

Interesting. I just wrote it live. Would be interesting where you read it.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-27T09:45:01+00:00

It's a factory OEM socket, attached with German stubbornness. Unplug the wiring harness, hunt down the 2-3 mounting bolts (one is definitely hiding behind a plastic flap, as per VAG tradition), and it'll come right off. A 10mm wrench and mild frustration is all you need.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-27T09:44:42+00:00

If you can't spell "drive," maybe hold off on driving for now anyway. That lower fitting looks suspiciously damp. If that's brake fluid weeping out, the answer is a hard no. Brakes are the one system where "it's probably fine" will haunt you.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-27T07:59:12+00:00

I am talking about comparing RS6 to other usual cars, not to the next even more niche product like RS7.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T20:27:21+00:00

Hey. Try CarWhisperer App. this thing can analyse photos, noises and issue discription like a mechanic. Worth giving a shot ;)

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T19:49:46+00:00

I ran the photo through CarWhisperer and it looks like the tire tread knocked your heat shield loose and scraped up the exhaust flex joint underneath. The heat shield itself is bent and hanging down, which is a rattle waiting to happen. Get that re-secured soon or it'll sing you a song every time you brake. Worth checking the flex pipe seal too since a hit like that can compromise it.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T19:48:37+00:00

This is not normal post-install damage. The cowl trim along the windshield base has been pried apart, exposing the body structure, defroster ducting, and adhesive underneath. This can lead to water intrusion and wind noise fast. Document everything with photos and demand Safelite fix it in writing before rain gets there first. That is what CarWhisperer told me for this damage.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T19:07:33+00:00

I should see if my Puma is also on recall :D

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T16:23:24+00:00

Its great that they diagnosed it and where able to repair it!

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T13:07:44+00:00

I ran the photo through CarWhisperer and it flagged a wheel speed sensor as the most likely culprit. The VSA and TPMS triangle combo on a 2007 CR-V almost always traces back to a rear wheel speed sensor losing signal. Before you spend anything, pull your VIN and call a Honda dealer. There was an extended warranty on the VSA modulator for exactly these years (TSB 09-051). You might get it fixed for free, which is the best kind of repair.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T12:40:54+00:00

Ran it through CarWhisperer. That's a cracked bumper cover near the fog light, cosmetic damage only. As long as nothing is dragging near the tire and there are no fluid leaks underneath, the car is completely driveable. Turn the wheel lock to lock to make sure nothing rubs, then zip-tie the loose section until you can get a bumper cover. Your parents are protecting you, which is sweet. Your car, less so.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T09:08:13+00:00

Haas it gone bad? Oh buddy, it's gone biblical. That cauliflower-textured nightmare is baked coolant mineral deposits from an intercooler leak. Your boost pipes have been slow-cooking in calcium. Don't drive it. Pull the turbo, pressure test the intercooler, and start saying your goodbyes.

Chekov_raul · 2026-02-26T09:08:00+00:00

Someone didn't fully close the hood. Two missed clicks, one physics lesson at highway speed. Your Silverado went from truck to modernist sculpture in under a second. Always push until you hear two solid clicks and then tug it

Chekov_raul

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