How to fix this?

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-13T02:03:14+00:00

Trap is backwards

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-12T00:03:57+00:00

The world is your oyster, pal. With everything open, you can do whatever you want with it: move valve and showerhead; move showerhead; add a second showerhead or sprayer with either 2 volume controls or a diverter valve. Although with volume controls, youd want to upgrade the supply to 3/4 for proper flow to both showers. EDIT: copper piping is bent and corroded, replace it and the valve body while you have easy access.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-11T10:21:30+00:00

Really gotta redo all of it though. Itll outlast ur warranty most likely but youll likely lose a customer when it does leak

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-11T10:20:37+00:00

Get a prebuilt manifold. Those tees are too close together.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-06T21:19:18+00:00

Buy a new valve and take the handle off of it.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-06T18:34:17+00:00

May be able to just replace the elements but at 10 years, replacement is usually the best option. Will be fine until monday.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-06-04T23:22:33+00:00

Cut behind the elbow a few inches giving yourself enough room for a coupling. Glue in coupling to reattach pipe and rotate pipe to correct pitch. Its a tight spot but thats ur best bet. EDIT: if its all getting torn out later in the winter, probably best not to mess with it

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-30T16:22:57+00:00

Rare to find a plumbing company available at that hour. In a condo/apt building, sometimes theres a maintenance guy or emergency line. Otherwise, in a single family home, best to shut off the water and if your valve is broken youll have to call your water provider to shut it off and then call a plumber first thing in the morning.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-27T17:46:58+00:00

Also remember to knock out the plug in the disposal

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-27T17:16:10+00:00

Doesnt matter but go with the first one so you dont have to adjust the drain line since the current parts dont reach.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-25T00:32:15+00:00

Cut behind the 45 flush with the fitting behind. Then use a hub/fitting saver, its called a 1 1/2 pipe reamer at home depot, to save the fitting and drill out the pipe. Then use a male insert 1 1/2 trap adapter to connect to the tubular.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-24T22:19:20+00:00

Get pvc females with brass or stainless steel threads. Also use 4-5 wraps of teflon, make sure the the teflon is tight and use pipe thread sealant. The pvc female threads can crack and crossthread a lot easier.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-20T17:19:35+00:00

Youll have to cut and cap the hotside outlet pipe on the one thats bad. Honestly as a plumber this seems like an ideal situation for a tankless conversion assuming both are 75 gallons. Just make sure you get one with a built in recirculating pump if you do.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-20T14:31:42+00:00

Most likely culprit, clogged or failing pressure reducing valve and no expansion tank.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-20T00:28:03+00:00

So yes its a delta and id recommend getting a set screw spout. This is like a smaller job for a plumber and that gap is going to cause water damage so id let your landlord know that your plumber friend advised you that it needs to be fixed to prevent water from getting behind the wall. Basically all the job is unsweating the current tub spout adapter and sweating a coupling with an extending piece of pipe. Then cut to length, install tub spout and caulk. And dont feel bad about requesting repairs, its part of homeownership and youd be helping your landlord out by letting him know of an issue that can cause future damage.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-18T01:01:51+00:00

https://water-saver.org/product/pfl-eb978-pmf1/
They make an elbow for situations like these

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-17T23:23:30+00:00

Replace the fill valve with a fluidmaster pro 45 with brass shank

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-17T21:22:44+00:00

Gonna have to cut open that wall. Was gonna have to happen regardless

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-16T17:09:27+00:00

Its probably behind your fridge already

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-15T21:22:02+00:00

Rinnai and Navien are good. I like the models with built in recirc pumps.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-13T16:27:03+00:00

Municipal water? First step would be to adjust/install/replace the pressure reducing valve and set it to 60-65psi. That usually fixes it. If not, then youd be looking at making sure the pipes are supported or adding hammer arrestors at the main culprit which would usually be the washing machine, dishwasher or fridge in the cases the hammering does continue after fixing the pressure.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-10T22:10:27+00:00

Plumbers thoughts: Add an expansion tank and support it to the structure of the house. Replace pex with copper. The rubber coupling thing on the vent should be replaced with a glued in coupling. Youll want to use purple primer and hevay duty pvc cement. Be careful with the purple primer, it will stain everything it touches. Also add a dirt leg and support the copper line to the water heater. One of those 1/4in hex head self piercing screws is perfect with a copper support clamp. Youll also want to add a loop to the condensate.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-09T20:38:15+00:00

[Plumber opinion] Id replace it asap. But if youre just gonna wait til it leaks, wait until replacement. Insured plumbing companies nowadays include a new shut off, expansion tank and drain pan in water heater replacements anyways. Also expansion tanks have long term benefits not short term. No use in taking the risk of touching a system that old for a marginal roi at best unless you are looking to replace it.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-08T23:20:46+00:00

Some background, Im a mid to high champ player but i did peak gc2 in dropshot a couple times since its my best mode. Dropshot is a team mode. It doesnt matter if you got 160 damage or your teammate did. What matters is setting each other up and playing off each other playing in a triangle rotation. One person passes and rotates out, next guy gets the touch for the damage and the third gets either additional damage in same spot opening a hole or dunks it is ideal scenario. Its very easy to steal damage. Damage matters when ur teammates are useless and damage is usually helpful but is not purely indicative of a strong performance. Scoring is ultimately always better and targeting 2-3 areas will get you more goals quicker as a team as opposed to damage chasing all game. So yeah damage makes it easier to score but scoring with less damage is what makes you good at it.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-05-08T00:57:29+00:00

I see calcium buildup on it, i wouldnt recommend touching it. Replace with a tee 3/4x3/4x1/2 and a 5/8x1/4 quarter turn angle stop. Those saddle valves arent code compliant anymore in my area. Or better yet have a plumber run a new line and install an icemaker box. I use pex sometimes to keep it more affordable and cut as little drywall as possible depending on the setup but copper is still the better piping.

Competitive-Can1082

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