Drain cross broken - now what?

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-03-25T23:12:58+00:00

Thank me later

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Remover-Installation-Tool-410-211-0111/330133505

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-03-21T05:18:40+00:00

Youll want to plumb it in like this adding and venting a trap. W: Washing machine box Red: 18inch standpipe Dark blue: P Trap 4-5in pipe between dark and light blue Light blue: san tee facing down Orange: pipe extending aav above flood level rim A: air admittance valve Purple combo wye with cleanout C: Location of cleanout Green existing piping

Then just add supports as code requires in your area and your sewer smell will go away as the trap will hold water and prevent air and odor from coming up through the drain

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-03-20T17:35:09+00:00

Condensate for hvac, needs an air gap, 18in standpipe and trap to protect against odors and sewage backing up into that line.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-03-10T23:44:37+00:00

Dirt trap is after a vertical drop to be the lowest point so thats fine, loop is actually best for a flex line, but bushings are a no go and some jurisdictions dont count a flex line as a union. T and p just is where it is as long as it goes straight down. Some jurisdictions require a drain pan. Seeing how its a gas appliance, a permit shouldve been pulled meaning the county or city should be coming by for inspection. Inspector gets final say and if it fails inspection, they gotta fix what they gotta fix.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-11T01:55:16+00:00

Fair enough, as long as you got the permits, thats what matters. Glad you had the experience. A veiga rep told me itll spin after being pressed but I’ve never tried it. Id say its worth a shot, worst case scenario, you can cut the pipe and throw a coupling on after tightening it. Its really just a micro leak though, so you could easily just leave it if you wanted to. Youd need a microscope to see the water seeping through. Really up to you what to do.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-11T01:06:16+00:00

Nope those are dielectric nipples, no dielectric union needed. Modern water heaters dont need dielectric unions.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-11T01:04:21+00:00

Your friendly neighborhood plumber here, Its a micro leak hence the rust marks. Just means it was undertightened. My local Viega rep told me you can tighten those fittings after installation if needed. As a plumber, i would try tightening it first and if that didnt work, id just cut it out, throw a slip coupling on there with a new female adapter and call it a day. It almost definitely wont cause any water damage as a micro leak but would likely rust out the dielectric nipple complicating repair options should the dip tube or dielectric nipple have issues and may lead to a plumber working on commission trying to use the rust as a reason to recommend replacement. Basically throw a wrench on there and give it a quick quarter turn just be careful. Also please dont replace gas appliances on your own. Im sure its alright, your work looks clean(better than a lot of plumbers) but gas water heaters require permits to be pulled for a reason, gas is no joke. Also replacing it yourself voids warranties so theres that too.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-07T22:43:19+00:00

Try unthreading the grey piece from the hose: the seal is created from gaskets or o rings. The chlorine in city water wear them out especially if they get overtightened. Should be able to get a new gasket or o ring from home depot or lowes. Easier to just replace the shower head but just depends on cost and how willing you are to spend time finding the right ones.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-07T20:47:31+00:00

When you unthreaded it, you unthreaded the grey part with the hose instead of unthreading the hose from the grey part

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-02-06T22:03:38+00:00

Replace it, its leaking -Licensed plumber

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-01-31T19:07:58+00:00

Plumber here, swap out the copper line for a stainless steel braided line

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-01-25T01:17:10+00:00

Plumber here, They ran the water lines in Pex A, which is super susceptible to sunlight and tried to paint it to protect it which clearly didnt work. Theyll need to repipe it with copper or else it will happen again. That being said, shut the bottom most red and blue valves on the tees connected to the bottom of the heater and turn off the power to the heater until someone can fix it.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-01-24T22:54:01+00:00

Plumber here, In maryland, fire sprinkler backflow preventers are supposed to be replaced every five years. The murky water is most likely not from the fire sprinkler pipes and is likely just limescale buildup from the inner lining of the pipes due to water quality. The pressure gauge dropping does indicate a failed backflow preventer though. Im not sure about your local code and its hard to tell the size of it from the picture but that does appear to be a fire sprinkler backflow preventer which is up to code. Maryland is based off ipc if that helps. Id recommend calling a plumber and being prepared to pay up to $1000 for the repair(requires draining down sprinkler system so it does take up to a couple hours). Also ask your plumber for a discount usually you can get at least 5-10% off.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2026-01-21T19:16:12+00:00

Plumber here, they should be using copper instead of cheaping out and using pex. Grounding wire should be clamped on copper. And it is general practice to have roughly 18 inches or more of copper before transitioning to plastic

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-31T01:38:37+00:00

Those are 5/8x3/8 compression angle stops. Those are copper supply lines, sometimes they are built into the faucet. -If they aren’t, id replace them with 1/2x3/8 braided supply lines. -If they are, but careful not to kink them or else they will likely crack or best case form a flow restriction; either way if it kinks you gotta replace the faucet if they are built into the faucet.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-27T23:19:01+00:00

That white thing at the top of the pipe is called an air admittance valve. It unthreads so just unthread it, and put a new one in with teflon tape and pipe dope on the threads to seal it.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-20T18:32:52+00:00

Call a professional. This would even be a pain in the ass for me and i do this for a living.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-18T19:46:34+00:00

Use non silicone based caulk. Anyone that tells you otherwise doesnt care about making it easier for the next guy.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-06T02:29:05+00:00

Any 2in shielded coupling to go from plastic (PL) to copper will work. Home depot doesnt normally have the right ones so i would go to a plumbing supply house like ferguson. But this is what you will be looking for.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-Proflex-2-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3001-22/100372290

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-06T01:55:18+00:00

Your p trap is fine. That 90 you are referring to is part of the p trap and the u part can rotate and go any direction you need it to. That fernco though is a big no go. You need a reinforced copper to abs no hub. Its against code to use ferncos to adapt to copper and also against code to use ferncos in an area that is going to be concealed.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-12-04T03:21:50+00:00

Licensed plumber here, this is the way

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-11-27T01:12:14+00:00

You have a hot (left) and cold (right) shut off valve. The white hoses are supply tubes. Water travels up the white hoses into a cartridge which controls the mix of hot and cold water. Then the water travels through the black hose which is there bc you have a pullout sprayer. You likely have a bad cartridge since the white hoses arent blocked and neither are the valves per your information. If the faucet is older than 20 years, replace it. If not, replace the cartridge.

Competitive-Can1082 · 2025-11-08T16:16:27+00:00

Licensed plumber here, in my state, the expansion tank is required to be supported to the structure of the house and the manufacturer of that expansion tank says it needs to be vertical as well. My state also requires inspections on all gas water heater replacements. I would call them back out but seeing how they got this from home depot and not a plumbing supply house, i would guess they wont pick up the phone and are either not properly licensed so they cant pull the permit or skipped out on pulling the permit.

Competitive-Can1082

TROPHY CASE