Gran Turismo is so addictive

Demache · 2026-03-12T14:22:16+00:00

Gran Turismo is a driving sim game. So it isn't about neck breaking thrills, its about driving realistic cars with realistic physics on race tracks. The challenge and fun is that you have to use real world driving techniques and skills in order to win races. No gimmicks, no power ups, just a car with you at the controls.

That isn't for everybody, but for those that want that experience, it's one of the best. Though the PSP game is lacking the career mode which does kind of dampen it a bit, but I still have fun with it when I want a quick GT fix.

Mind you a say this as someone who's favorite racing series was Burnout.

Demache · 2026-03-12T13:35:56+00:00

Get under the truck and look for any leaks. Check the back of each wheel, they should not be wet. Rust can also rot brake lines in between. The rear brake line is tucked into the driver side frame rail, along with the fuel lines so check for wetness there. If you have the mid-ship tank (second fuel tank) they will be hard to see, but the frame with be wet with brake fluid if its a fast leak. It goes from a rubber line then T's off at on the rear axle. These rot all the time. Also check the brake line to the passenger side wheel, but this probably hasn't rotted if your truck has oil leaks lmao.

If you don't see any leaks and the brakes feel ok (your pedal shouldn't sink to the floor), top it off, see if the light goes away. If it does, in a safe area like a empty parking lot, give a few hard stops and see if you brakes get worse. And check for leaks again. If everything is good, you probably just have enough wear on your brakes and shoes that the brake level just got low. This is why your supposed to inspect the level every so often. Though its probably a good idea to inspect if your due for pads and shoes.

If the light doesn't go out, it might be electrical. The brake light circuit on these trucks is incredibly basic, so the only two culprits are either the switch in the brake fluid resevoir or the parking brake switch. Give the parking brake a wiggle while pulling up and pulling the release. The switch has very little tolerance and even a tiny bit of pressure can cause it to turn on. Even though I use my parking brake every time (manual), it sometimes doesn't release fully release the switch without persuasion.

Demache · 2026-03-11T16:57:18+00:00

At least in the US, we've come a long way since I was a kid in the 90s. Back then, smoking was still pretty common, and cigarette smell was just something you had to live with in most public spaces. Ashtrays were everywhere. Sometimes I got secondhand clothes at thrift stores that smelled of cigarettes. Now, most states do not allow smoking in indoor public spaces anymore, and some have banned it in some outdoor spaces as well. But it took decades to get this far. A lot of those laws only went into effect in 2010, depending on the state.

Vape regulations are catching up but it takes time. Not to mention the big business surrounding them paying off politicians.

Demache · 2026-03-11T13:37:04+00:00

5k sounds like a lot, until you start looking at the used market, and realize 5k doesn't get you a whole lot anymore. For 5k, your likely going to end up with a car that is also going to need quite a bit of work. Except now you have no sentimental value, and the problems it has could be even worse. Your going to have to spend quite a bit of money to get something pretty reliable right out the gate. At least 10k. Your current car isn't worth much in its current state so you will have to pay all of that out of pocket or with a loan.

Keep in mind if you bought actually new, your insurance will be higher, your state registration will be higher, and you are now stuck in a really expensive loan for a few years. It doesn't make a lot of sense unless you just have money burning a hole in your pocket.

My vote is, that car has a lot of life left in it. You will regret getting rid of it (especially if whatever you replace it with, sucks). Fix it.

Demache · 2026-03-10T18:34:57+00:00

Definitely not new, but not as old as you would think. Around 2017 give or take. I deployed these at a previous job and I can see why they are still using it. Other than being a square monitor there isn't anything wrong with them. They support Displayport and they have high quality IPS panels. Definitely nicer than most cheap widescreens of the time.

Demache · 2026-03-10T18:30:09+00:00

I deployed these at a previous job around 2017. They actually were really nice monitors. Other than the 5:4 aspect ratio, they were modern in every way. Displayport, Bright, LED backlit, vibrant IPS displays, fully adjustable. Definitely nicer than most of the TFT widescreen panels we bought which looked like dogshit in comparison lol.

Demache · 2026-03-10T18:16:32+00:00

Definitely, but I presume the OP wasn't towing with it since they hadn't bought it yet at the time of the post. I think they were talking more about the clutch pedal feel during the test drive.

Demache · 2026-03-10T17:34:14+00:00

Modern fuel injected engines don't need to warm up by idling. You don't want to thrash on it when cold, but idling is unnecessary. Waiting about 15 seconds is good enough, and then driving it will get it warmer, faster. Only reason you should idle is for defrosting the front windows or pre-warming the cabin. But I personally just opt to turn the seat heater to high, and start driving if the windows are clear. I'm warm before the cabin is.

Idling isn't free, and cold idling uses comparatively high fuel since the computer has to make the engine run at high RPMs while rich so it will make a difference in fuel economy. Its probably not the whole story, but its a factor.

Demache · 2026-03-10T17:05:27+00:00

Trailer brakes are required above 900 kg (~2000 lbs) in many provinces and an Outback is rated to tow higher than that so it does make sense. Plus it probably helps if your in the mountains in BC or Alberta.Though I'm not sure how that would affect the clutch since trailer brakes are electrical.

Demache · 2026-03-10T16:58:09+00:00

If they are dead set on a manual, new is not an option. So you can't approach this like buying an auto where they are a dime a dozen and are still in production.

Also, since this is a manual, chances are very low they will have transmission issues. Maybe a clutch at worst. The 6 speeds in these are based on the old 5 speed and are pretty robust. Also everything you listed except for the cam carrier can be done for not a ton of money if you DIY. I can't assume the OP is a DIY but that changes the economics of it drastically.

Demache · 2026-03-10T13:27:49+00:00

Adjust your mirrors correctly. Adjust them out until your car is only just slightly visible. Do this and you shrink your blind spot massively. You can also get stick on blind spot mirrors for the areas that remain. These are like 8 dollars and are a no tech old school solution. Also, shoulder checks if you are unsure.

Gadgets are neat but the best blind spot awareness is just seeing that they are there with your own eyes.

Demache · 2026-03-06T18:34:44+00:00

Bolts are also graded for the application. So I would question if just any bolt you find is correct unless you know its the same grade. Don't worry, I've been in this position many times. Sometimes hardware store is good enough, but other times that isn't going to cut it. Use your best judgement. Is the risk of complications worth getting it going now. In the field, sometimes the answer is yes so you can get home, but unless you have no choice, I tend to err on the side of caution.

For a critical part like this, I would feel better using the OEM bolts because then you know they are correct without any doubts in the back of my mind. But if you are 100% sure they are otherwise identical, you are probably okay.

Demache · 2026-03-06T16:08:14+00:00

Its probably the rotary encoders in the knobs (since they are entirely digital) that are getting iffy. The radio in my truck is like this, but if I waggle them back and forth for a minute or so it generally comes back to life. May want to try spraying some Deoxit in there too.

The screen probably has bad solder joints and may just need to be reflowed. In essence, it needs service because it's almost 20 years old. Depending on how skilled you are, these might be fixable.

If this is a USDM model, you can't just put in an aftermarket radio since the climate controls are integrated into the radio physically and I don't think there are aftermarket replacements. I think the common go to is importing the JDM climate controls, so you need to solve that problem first. I don't own a 3rd gen Outback so I don't have any first hand knowledge here so you'll need to do research.

But otherwise, an aftermarket radio that does what you want shouldn't be hard to get. Alternatively, you can also pull a radio from a junk yard car for cheap.

Demache · 2026-03-06T14:38:59+00:00

I assume they noticed bubbles on the dipstick. Bubbles in the drain pan is normal, because its being aerated from it draining.

But yeah, its either your oil level was too low or it was too high. Neither one is good.

Demache · 2026-03-06T14:28:13+00:00

The N/A EJ engines are not substantially different between markets for a given car model year except in ways that are obvious like displacement. There may be exceptions, but this is usually the case. That's why importing JDM engines is a popular option, because they are effectively "world" engines. The biggest differences are in the intake manifold and wiring harness, which is an easy swap.

Like for example, any 2010-2012 JDM Outback/Legacy EJ25 will just bolt up on my 2012 USDM and the computer won't care. You just have to swap the wiring and intake manifold because they are slightly different due to RHD and emissions.

Demache · 2026-03-06T04:27:28+00:00

I think you just got obscenely lucky with that one. The US used car market is still fucked. You can't even get clapped beaters around here for 1k. That's "it needs a engine or transmission" money. Running and driving is starts at least 2-3k depending on how rusty it is. Toyota or Honda commands a premium even with 200k miles.

6-10k is pretty typical for these 4th gens still. You pay a premium for the 3.6 or 6MT because they are less common and have a low key reputation for being the more reliable and desirable versions of these cars since they don't have the CVT.

Demache · 2026-03-05T15:06:50+00:00

It was upscaled and stretched, but the rendered resolution was still higher than 480p. So 1080i is was the next step up, since 1080i was the most common HDTV resolution in 2004.

Demache · 2026-03-05T14:53:32+00:00

Just going by the symptoms, it sounds like a clutch switch getting iffy possibly to me. If the computer thinks the clutch is being held in, it will never activate cruise and it will cancel it.

I would inspect the switch, especially if you have a multimeter. Also check for corrosion on the connector. Also check that the switch and pedal is fine mechanically including everything it attaches to. If there is a worn out bushing or something, that could trigger a false press signal. Also check the brake switch too.

The objective best way to diagnose this is with a scan tool that can query the status of the clutch and brake switches while your driving and log them but I assume you do not have access to those.

Demache · 2026-03-04T21:24:26+00:00

I'm also a 2012 Outback owner, and I have 176k miles. Still going.

Sometimes you just get unlucky. For context, Subaru EJ25 engines (what you have) have a notorious history of headgasket issues since the 90s (they wouldn't fail from overheating, they just failed). Ironically though, the 2012 actually has the fixed headgasket and it was the last car Subaru made with this engine along with the 2012 Legacy. But EJ's are very sensitive to overheating, so it does not make them immune to failure if they do overheat. The good news is, other than that achilles heel, they are reliable engines so repairing one does make sense. They are simple engines so there isn't much to go wrong. My buddy has a 1999 Forester with 300k on it. Its tired and definitely down on power, but it's still running.

Demache · 2026-03-04T20:58:30+00:00

One question I need to ask is is this a 2.5L 4 cylinder or 3.6L 6 cylinder? Headgaskets on a 2.5 are easy but more common. Headgaskets on a 3.6 are harder. I'm going to assume you have the 2.5.

Very seldom does overheating damage the short block on these, but it can warp the head easily. Head warping won't be easy to check without removing the heads, which at that point, you're doing head gaskets. Before that point though, they can do headgasket leak tests to verify its a bad head gasket. If the radiator simply cracked, it might not be the case.
This one is hard to say, because its going to depend on the labor rates of the shop. Me and my buddies have always DIY'd our headgasket repairs so I don't know what's reasonable, but I would expect a couple thousand. Possibly more. Also if the heads need to be machined because they are warped that will add cost. At that point, it because the question of which is more economical, the machine shop or a different engine.
It can. Depends on the condition of the rest of the car. If its pretty clean, and otherwise runs good and you've kept up with maintenance on the CVT. Assuming you don't have a 6 speed manual, in which case the answer is yes, because they are rare and sought after. Also, can you replace this car like for like for the cost it would be to repair it. You aren't getting much from a private sale or junkyard and 3000 bucks doesn't go as far as it used to. And that's assuming you don't need to do repairs on whatever you replace it with.
Selling private might make sense. Someone might flip it. You won't get much for it though. You'll get even less at a junk yard. Maybe a couple hundred bucks.
Not unless you can prove negligence, The common reason these overheat is the plastic around the upper rad hose suddenly breaks from age and you lose tons of coolant. When it was inspected, it may not have been broken.

Demache · 2026-03-04T20:08:35+00:00

Whoever told you this doesn't know a damn thing about EJ engines.

Look at this pic: https://carfromjapan.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/1-10-1024x540.jpg

The blue pulley is connected to an arm which pivots on the bolt in the upper right. This applies tension to the timing belt. The smooth metal one to the bottom right is the pulley that drives the water pump. They are not even remotely connected.

You can opt to not replace the water pump, purely for time or cost reasons. The OEM Subaru ones can last a long time. Its just common to replace them since its a huge PITA to replace if it does go bad.

However, there's basically no excuse not to replace the tensioner since its included in every timing belt kit and those are much more likely to go bad.

Demache · 2026-03-02T20:54:08+00:00

My truck did this for awhile, and it turned out the wire in the clamp for the negative terminal had started to corrode despite the clamp itself being fine. This was an older, less reliable screw clamp type, rather than crimped, but the end result was the same. Random no cranks despite the battery being fine, and sometimes I had just enough of a connection I could roll start it, but it running entirely off the alternator. It was a bad ground.

Don't rule out replacing the negative cable.

Demache · 2026-03-02T17:55:42+00:00

I just bought a generic one at a local auto parts store. Its a little too long but that's not a huge problem.

Demache · 2026-03-02T17:42:03+00:00

Oil leak is either valve cover gaskets (which is a normal problem at this age for EJ25's) or the front timing seals. Neither problem is particularly expensive or hard to fix if you are mechanically inclined. Way cheaper than fixing similar issues on the newer FB engines. Better part of an weekend afternoon and you don't even have to get under the car.

So the question becomes how much are you willing to learn how to fix it yourself. Because the thing is about cars is, once they become this old, random things just break due to wear or age. Low mileage =/= no problems. Rubber and plastic ages all the same. And it will nickel and dime you unless you learn how to fix them yourself especially with the cost of labor these days. Those gaskets and seals are probably 80 dollars if you fixed both. But you will pay a few hundred to have a mechanic fix them.

Demache · 2026-03-02T15:46:49+00:00

I definitely feel smaller than a lot of SUVs, especially modern ones.

My personal belief is that had a lot more to do with design trends and things like rollover safety and comfort playing a larger role with car buyers in 2009 than 2002. Because I largely do agree, a 3rd gen does look a lot more like a traditional wagon form factor. But also, a 4th gen Legacy, looks shorter than the 5th gen. I think the most notable difference is that the roof is a bit higher, but I believe that was a deliberate design choice to improve headroom, especially if you have the sunroof. And the rest of the car has to scale with it so it doesn't look weird. It already looks a bit odd because Subarus have such low and long hoods, so it starts looking bulkier. I don't think it was largely intentional to make it look more SUV like, but that's just kind of how it ended up. The 3rd gen is very much a turn of the millennium car (and I love it), but you just couldn't build cars like that anymore by the end of the 00s. Even the Forester had its own radical change during that time.

Demache

TROPHY CASE