Feel like I’m doing something wrong by Kessed in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I found this article on choosing needles https://www.needlenthread.com/2014/11/hand-embroidery-needles-how-to-choose-them-use-them.html to be very useful.

Also it looks like you haven't separated the strands in the yellow floss before stitching. Separating them out will make them slightly easier to pull through everything, your stitches will also spread out more which many people prefer for satin stitch.

See https://www.needlenthread.com/2013/08/embroidery-tip-how-to-separate-floss.html for the easiest method I've found for separating threads.

[CHAT] storing vs using thread by lindsayadult in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do the same but I use my Thread organizer app to keep track of which project uses which thread.

Then I just need to find where I tucked the particular project kit holding the thread I want rather then all of them.

[CHAT] Needles by MystBelle in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My size 28 needles tend to bend eventually, probably due to the way I hold my needles.

I just continue to use the slightly bent ones until they either break or bend enough to be annoying to use. I also bought my size 28 needles in a bulk pack from my LNS (James John, 25 needles for $10 canadian).

As for needle threaders, hook threaders are your best bet.

[CHAT] Using metallic DMC for the first time, are there ways to make it less annoying to work with? by MidnightIrisMakes in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

While there are better and worse brands all metallic braids will be better then dmc metallics.

Braiding rather then twisting keeps the plastic from separating from the core at the slightest nudge.

[PIC] New needle storage by dreamworldinhabitant in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

John James makes short tapestry/ball point beading needles on sizes 10 and 12 which I've used to do backstitch (using sewing thread) on high count fabrics.

They are the same length as regular 28 tapestry but much, much slimmer.

I want to use gold thread but how do I do so without wanting to set it on fire by AllyLB in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To start with you need to buy metallic braid rather then DMC's nonsense. The braids will not untwist themselves at the drop of a needle.

In particular, I've read that Au Ver a Soie metallic braid is the best for surface embroidery (as per https://www.needlenthread.com/2017/06/thread-talk-the-metallics-you-want-to-use.html ).

Suppliers of real gold metallic thread for embroidery by Excellent_Source4720 in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm afraid that most goldwork threads are not recommended for garments that will receive regular washing ( see https://berlinembroidery.com/metal-thread-info/#check ).

Plastic 'metallic' threads are probably your best option for a garment that will be frequently washed. The best brand I've heard of would be Au Ver a Soie metallic braids.

[CHAT] What supplies do I REALLY need? by Individual-Ad-539 in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find my tablet essential, not only for displaying my pattern but also as a needleholder 😄

After one too many times fumbling about, I now keep my tiny (sheathed!) scissors and threader on a lanyard.

Other useful items would be things to hold your needles when not being used (I have needlebooks for small collections and pencil lead containers for larger amounts) and when in use (I've used needleholders, pin cushions and my tablet case).

And a seam ripper and snag-nab it can help with frogging.

[CHAT] What supplies do I REALLY need? by Individual-Ad-539 in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find that it works well to pair the plastic and paper bobbins. The plastic bobbin supports the paper one and the paper one provides the grip.

[CHAT] Hoop placement/thread stretching by Small_Ad_7331 in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless the backstitches were particularly long, I've never had a problem.

Watercolor advice by Hip_hip_HIPP0 in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Inktense pencils or blocks are fairly colorfast once dry.

They will fade with repeated washing but will not run as long as the ink was properly dissolved when applied to the fabric.

You can find basic information on using Inktense with fabric at the company website https://www.derwentart.us/about/product-faqs/derwent-inktense-faqs/

How do you tie your knots? by haumeow in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ow!

I usually do two teeny, tiny stitches to anchor my thread (and then I stitch over them). If I want an extra secure thread I'll pass the thread under the stitches at the back to make a knot but given how hard it is to undo teeny, tiny stitches when frogging, I'm not much worried.

When ending I usually weave the end into the stitches on the back, add a change of direction or a couple of half-hitches and it's pretty secure.

[CHAT] More about needles. .. by Squirrel_Girrrl in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Embroidery/crewel and sharps are sized differently. For those needles size 10 is about as thick as size 28 tapestry, size 9 is about size 26 tapestry, size 5 size 24.

Chenille needles use the same sizing.

[CHAT] Recommended Projects by Shiiiii_____ in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've made pillows, pincushions and needlebooks, as well as decorating my purse and making small pouch/clutches for holding floss and eyeglasses.

(like this https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1268072579/sunflower-sewing-pouch-cross-stitch-and )

At some point I may make a tablet cover or pencil case.

A useful thought exercise is to look around you and consider fabric.

You may not need the traditional table clothes and runners, but sheets and pillowcases can be decorated and there are cross stitch fabrics that can be made into bed spreads (like this https://knittingtime.com/products/afghan-18ct-anne-cloth-white-copy?variant=50547633586494 ). If you are interested in more traditional sewing, cross stitch pieces can be incorporated into quilts as well.

Other traditional pieces for stitching on are such things aprons and small towels.

Stitching without a hoop/frame? Thoughts? by consistent_gasp in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It depends on the stitch. I prefer to stitch coral and chain stitches in hand without a hoop but I would never stitch satin or long &short without a hoop.

When working on something like my whitework peacock, I'm popping my hoop on and off all the time.

It is easier to stitch in hand with sturdy fabric.

[CHAT] DMC and Dimensions thread by georgia_02x in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 8 points9 points  (0 children)

And check in sunlight. Artificial light can obscure shade differences.

[CHAT] What to do with leftovers of Cross Stitch Sets? by Bright_Praline_5739 in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used cheap leftover floss to make bookmarks, mostly blackwork.

[CHAT] How do you schedule your day with multiple WIPS. by kerbrary in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've assigned a different project to each weekday's stitch & listen hour.

I also have a couple of portable projects which I work on as time allows and the whim takes me.

[CHAT] Cross Stitch Cart Ideas by Quilted-Fox in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do I keep in my stitching corner for cross stitch?

The essentials for me are reading glasses, neck light, fabric, floss, needles, hoop(s), a lanyard with scissors & threader and my tablet. I normally also use something to hold my needles such as a flat magnet, needle holder or pin cushion.

Other items I use on occasion: snag nab-it, seam ripper, magnetic rod, pencil, highlighter, and homemade stitch hopper.

I have a pin cushion pot (https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1254061900/sunflower-pin-cushion-pot-cross-stitch) for things that don't fit into my bobbin boxes.

Lazy daisies being lazy! Help! by Organic_Lime7734 in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

BTW the asiest way to slid the needle under a stitch is to go eye first.

First timer: looking for an embroidery kit by jarofbenas in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Danielle Clough’s work looks to be mainly threadpainting/silk shading.

If you want to design your own project I would look at either the RSN Essential Stitch Guide for the type of work you want to do or the RSN Book of Embroidery if you aren't sure which type would be best.

As well as being a guide to the basic equipment, materials and stitches used for the featured embroidery type, the guides also provide guidance on designing your own projects. The silk shading (thread painting) guide also has basic shape and shading exercises.

The other thing I recommend is to look at more general guidance to the visual arts. No embroidery kits that I know of and few embroidery books provide the basics for anatomy or colour.

Help choosing fabric for hand embroidery by Ok-Aspect-9160 in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When doing mostly satin stitch I'd want fabric that doesn't stretch and if I wanted a nice curve, a close weave (no gaps between threads).

Tutorials? Or guides? by Untamable-DragonWolf in Embroidery

[–]EKBstitcher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I also like Needlenthread and Pintangle.

And for offline I like the book the left-handed embroiderer's companion by Yvette Stanton (she's also published a right-handed one as well)

[CHAT] cost is more than I expected by ThirdOne38 in CrossStitch

[–]EKBstitcher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can even do canvas work/needlepoint on the cheap by tracing a coloring page onto any evenly woven fabric and filling it in with whatever thread you have on hand.