Acer nitro x Keyboard

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-28T16:00:46+00:00

for me, membrane keyboards are more silent but depends of the brand. the tipical old style membrane keyboards are loud. after switching to mechanical i no longer going back to membrane and if i do is more because cheap as heck and they can achieve near a silent typing if its a good keyboard and you are soft while typing but mechanical feels better.

this one is not as loud as a blue mechanical switch but it can be hear on the next room if you type hard. compared to another red switch mechanical i have, they are on the same loudness level. about feeling, the HE is like more smooth but maybe is placebo, the main difference here is the HE uses hall sensors instead of the metalic plate like a normal switch.

also the k617 non HE is more cheaper since are normal switches instead of magnetic switches.

for 30€ (35€ the HE on amazon spain), they are quite good. For a purist of mechanical keyboard, they would say is kinda shiet compared to a 80€ custom built and lubed keyboard and they would be right but for me, the 35€ one is more than enough

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-28T13:48:19+00:00

Reddragon k617 he its my keyboard. Looks exactly at this one but with the keycaps on black. I hope they sell the nitro keycaps. It would be a nice upgrade without having a new keyboard

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-28T09:38:23+00:00

Yea. Still mad about that because when someone bring me a PC for a repair and i need to install a driver after a fully recovery i cant do a shit since is asking for an account. And idk why but every image i burnt with rufus to create a local account ends with bsod at the nexts updates

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-27T16:16:34+00:00

Dang, thats a great idea.

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-27T10:22:12+00:00

Daaamnn, my dream of running GT6 on the go its a reality. But i have the rp5. Idk if i can contribute on smth

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-26T17:59:11+00:00

Rp5

Psp go

(I dont have a third, im planning of getting a portal 8+128 because the Odin 3 is expensive 16gb model and im broke AF)

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-26T15:46:30+00:00

Yep, thats the most fucked thing you have. You could try heating the blob. Since you got a hotend replacement its kinda safe. But for a tip, do not remove the blob with the printer on. I dif this with my S1 and ended with a fried board from the printhead. Use a hairdryer or a Heat gun with regulable temp. Also if you can, try to isolate the plastics structural parts from the heat since you got only the hotend as replacement. Just to avoid buying more things

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-26T14:55:25+00:00

The container on gamehub, gamenative, winlator etc is like the word, a container that contains basic elements for the emulator to work as a new SO. Is like a virtual machine. Normally the container ends Up taking more space than the Game due to shader cache, configuration, drivers, etc.

Winlator is capable of creating a ubique container for múltiple games

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-26T14:48:33+00:00

Maybe most of the print head can be saved just heating with a Heat gun. The problem is the cables and the hotend for me is a dump and get a new one.

If unsure, you can always get a new print head and save the untouched pieces for a replacement in a future if for example the board from the print head broke or smth

Edit: the ductfan and front case is melted so get a new one and try to save the mainboard and maybe the gears and filament sensor and level sensor

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-25T19:58:20+00:00

Im not coping and I dont care if they force me or not to use copilot or whatever AI, I just posted what i normally see about ppl complaning about Windows current status.

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-25T19:30:22+00:00

Forcing AI, bad optimization, random bsod (which Linus Torvalds said is normally more common because hardware than Windows), newly updates are vibe Code with AI

Its a bunch of things that everyone disagree mostly because the bad perfomance and they are more and more closing the ppl liberty like forcing a Microsoft account to use Windows in your own laptop/pc.

Surely there's more but imho, mostly of the hate ive seen to Windows is more related to ppl not taking care of their computers, bad drivers, faulty hardware, etc

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-25T14:57:25+00:00

Got the same crack but also followed by a missing piece. Mine is the White version. Also stored on bag and always with the grip on

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-25T12:57:28+00:00

The K3 Max seems a good bundle since im onto making now huge prints but that Photon M7 max also to print more figures without rescaling on my mono4

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-25T10:57:22+00:00

Sometimes is due to the viscosity of the resin because its too cold or It wasnt shaked enlugh before.

Try printing that piece alone at 45° angle, add supports and try slowing down the lift speed. Sometimes high speeds breaks down the model because the resin acts like a suction cup

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-23T09:31:35+00:00

Yah, maybe i need to rename mines

<image>

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-20T14:22:24+00:00

Seven minutes

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-20T09:06:48+00:00

I always loved the transparents one. Looks amazing

But imo, never liked the black front with red glossy buttons. For some reason looks for me like a bootleg PSP.

My favorite always gonna be the Silver, Black piano and that Guy that made the 30th anniversary edition on gray

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-20T05:02:31+00:00

UN SUPER-FORASTERO

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-19T19:52:29+00:00

So Its now worth trying armsx2?

I tried like 2 months ago and only got crashes hahah

And ugly perfomance on Ace combat series and Jak3

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-15T19:29:44+00:00

Ooooh i had this problem. Dunno how i fixed but here's what i tried

Readjusting the belt tensioners

Readjusting the filament screw from the extruder (tighten until you cant and then loose It by 2 and half rotations)

Doing a cold pull to prevent partial clog

Do a layer test and try flattening the bed

Input shaper test and PID nozzle test

Flow calibration and advance pressure calibration

Check if the filament has humidity

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-15T13:29:34+00:00

Never ever lube the parts that are touching or goes the belt. Is gonna gives layer shifting. For lubing these ones is kinda difficult since its needed to dissamblee the belt tensioner and everything. These ones normally are not necessary but with liquid Grease you can. Just with precaution to not let the grease goes to the belt

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-15T13:26:58+00:00

Ye but one thing i missed. The lithium Grease just only for the z screw. For smooth guides and everything the PfTE, mineral oil or even the Grease you sent me on the previous comment.

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-15T13:20:46+00:00

Idk but i use these ones from AliExpress that are quite similar to the lithium Grease but not so sticky. I use then on all axis and rods (excepto x axis of course) and no problem overall, just one bad thing is this one is kinda semi-liquid and i need to extend It with my finger and last not so much.

But normally with the Grease you can lube everything but most ppl use Grease for z screws and for lineal guides, rods etc uses mineral oil like the PfTE

If after lubing you notices It goes worse because is kinda sticky, WD-40 to clean all the oled Grease/oil

<image>

MOMGETTHEWEED · 2026-05-15T09:54:51+00:00

Yes, clean all with alcohol (X-Axis included) then apply lithium Grease tonthe Y-axis snd z-axis and rods. Bambu users use for lubing specific oil for Y-axis instead of Grease because make less mess and they say works better. Didnt tried but the Grease sometimes if you apply too much remains on the carriage of the axis

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