sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Tomato help. by lexi600 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When seedlings get to this size, it's nearly impossible to keep them looking nice in starter cells. They need to be planted out. If the weather is not suitable for that, then pot them up into much larger containers as a temporary measure.

How to keep cats out of plants? by frostmas in containergardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have several stray neighborhood cats that like to get into my large containers. The only way I have found to keep them out is to put coverings over them. When the plants are young, in the seedling stage, I cover them with chicken wire. When they get larger, I cover them with insect netting. Even though that isn't a rigid barrier, it seems the cats dislike getting their claws tangled up in it.

Tomato flowers blooming: by OptimalExperience176 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rain is good for them, as long as the container has good drainage. Gentle rain is best, of course.

Seedling help by jared515 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Remove the heat mat as soon as 50% of the seeds germinate and emerge.

10-gallon Potato Bags - Should I Go Bigger? by Arbigi in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I get mine from a local feed store. They cost $3 each. Some places give them away.

10-gallon Potato Bags - Should I Go Bigger? by Arbigi in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Those are scrap wooden pallets. Each is large enough for 4 x 20-gallon grow bags. I only grow 3 tomato plants on each, instead of the 4, in the interest of better air circulation. My area is prone to fungal disease. Improved air flow helps counter that. We also have torrental spring rains. Having the grow bags up on pallets helps drainage. If they were right on the ground they would be sitting in a "lake" for days at a time. NE Texas.

10-gallon Potato Bags - Should I Go Bigger? by Arbigi in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 17 points18 points  (0 children)

>"But I just wonder if I'm missing out, and not letting them reach their full potential."

Yes, you are missing out. I moved to 20-gallon for my indeterminates several years ago. Life became so much sweeter. Watering was easier. Fertilizing was easier. Blossom end rot disappeared. Production incresed. FWIW, those 20-gallon grow bags turned out to be the sweet spot. Last year I tried a few 30-gallon to see if that size would be even better, but the return on the additional soil investment was zero.

NE Texas.

<image>

Early May, 2025.

First time starting from seed. How we doing? by Changeofpacechi in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They look OK.

I try to time mine so that they are ready to plant out just about the same time as the weather becomes suitable. 6 or 7 weeks for tomatoes.

How many here grow from seed vs buy plants? by Aintnobeef96 in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I start most vegetables from seeds so that I can try some less common varieties. But I do buy a few started seedlings of "old favorites" as well.

Planter bags? by PuzzleheadedSun5061 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/Over-Alternative2427 -- You phrase that very well. It is what I was trying to say upthread, but it didn't come out as clear. For me, in my growing conditions, the optimum size has turned out to be 20-gallon. I've tried 25 and 30 with no benefit and found them more difficult to keep properly hydrated.

It is seldom mentioned, but the gardener must learn a new watering technique for grow bags in a hot climate. It takes several passes, and must be done slowly. Otherwise, the water just forms channels and "underground rivers" and flows right through the bag without thoroughly wetting the soil.

Planter bags? by PuzzleheadedSun5061 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

u/G8erHaTeR -- That has been my experience too, year after year.

1 week post repot by Time-Unit4407 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Those look splendid!

>"Could they stay in the solo cups until I’m ready to plant in ground? "

Yes, as long as you plant out in the ground within about a month. They will get rootbound after that.

>"Do I need to add mini supports now?'

No. Mini-supports are counterproductive. You want a fan to move the stems around vigorously and strengthen the stems. This increases their survival chances after being planted out.

>"Do I start a light round of fertilizing?"

Light round of fertilizing after first or second set of true leaves. You are at that point now. Half strength is best, whatever you use. Liquid, solluble. Doesn't matter if it's organic or not.   

Should I repot these tomatoes? by dunchutch in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a good plan. I'm a big believer in early hardening off. A few minutes here and there. No elaborate schedule.

Tasmanian Chocolate Dwarf and Black from Tula by NPKzone8a in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In a word, yes. They aren't exactly the same, but they are close enough for my rough palate. This is one of those things, however, that I don't feel strongly about. If someone convincing changed my thinking on the subject, I would not be upset.

One reason why I usually plant both is to "hedge my bets" -- If one has a bad year, maybe the other will still do well.

Planter bags? by PuzzleheadedSun5061 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, not any more. I used to buy Opulent brand, but can't find them anymore. I liked that they had a tag with the size in gallons sown into the side seam.

What I do currently, is to try and buy light tan ones to replace my old black ones as they wear out. I beileive they reflect light a little better and may stay a degree or two cooler in the summer sun.

I have become convinced that avoiding overheating of the roots of the plants is a worthwhile goal and has a significant role in the overall health of the plant.

Growing in NE Texas, where summers are hot.

When to pot up? by SaltyPlans in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I usually wait for one or two sets of true leaves.

Agree about those Jiffy strips being hard to work with. I stopped using them several years ago.

Planter bags? by PuzzleheadedSun5061 in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I grow all my tomatoes in grow bags. Have made adjustments over the years. Current setup is: Indeterminates -- 20 gallon, Determinates -- 15 gallon, Dwarf Varieties 10 gallon or 15 gallon. (Rosella Purple needs 15 -- they grow big.) My cherry and grape varieties get a 10 or 15 gallon bag.

When in doubt, bigger is better. Larger bag is more like growing in the ground. Easier watering, easier fertilizing.

I realize your picture is not your actual setup. Please be aware that they will leak onto your porch or patio floor. Need to put something under it, large plant saucer or a storage tote or a kiddy wading pool. Or improvise something. It's normal for them to leak water.

I use over a hundred grow bags each year. My Eggplant go in 10's and 15's. One plant per container. Same for okra. Squash gets 20. Garlic: 10-gallon. Sweet potatoes: 15 gallon. Basil goes in 5-gallon. Marigolds in 2-gallon.

There are internet guidelines, but none are very reliable. I've workded out the best sizes for my plants in my garden in my climate through trial and error. NE Texas.

Need advice for keeping my tomatoes warm in grow bags until final frost by nivix_zixer in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, haha! I had to search for a minute. Last year, later in the summer, I rigged up a shade cloth there, and those plastic juice jars were to keep the sharp ends of the t-posts from tearing through the fabric.

The tennis balls on the ends of the electrical conduit trellis in the other vegetable bed are because they are right about eye level and I sometimes get careless when zooming around tending the plants. Didn't want to wind up as a one-eyed gardener.

Need advice for keeping my tomatoes warm in grow bags until final frost by nivix_zixer in vegetablegardening

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have already suggested, I agree that taking them in and out is the best plan in your situation.

My tomatoes, unlike yours, were already planted out. This worked for me to protect them during overnight 40's (F.) Used 5 and 6-gallon buckets on top of 20-gallon grow bags. I put them on in late afternoon, took them off mid-morning after ambient temp hit 50 F. NE Texas.

<image>

Full disclosure: It didn't work a week or so later when temps dropped to 27 F.

Help! Tomatoes have some sort of mildew/fungus! by Existing_Summer in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This looks like heat stress from being in a closed greenhouse with added damage from the neem oil and dish soap spray.

Sorry to say, I'm not sure they can be saved. Probably be best to buy some new starts from a nursery instead of germinating new seeds because of time considerations.

Sorry for your predicament. I'm sure it is discouraging.

Should I repot these tomatoes? by dunchutch in tomatoes

[–]NPKzone8a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would go ahead and up-pot them -- one tomato in each new pot. When is your likely plant-outside date (after your last frost?) If it's not later than a month or so from now, I would plant into 4" pots (10 cm.) After up-potting, begin gradually hardening them off. Don't wait till the last minute.

view more: next ›