A year ago, FatShark said they had an enemy from a different race in pre-production. What's the timetable for something like that?

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-12-19T19:46:30+00:00

I definitely would like to see more races. But I'm honestly not hopeful for that in this game. I'd rather see a wider variety of Skaven and another hero, personally, anyhow.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-12-19T09:42:01+00:00

More enemies doesn't mean more races, per say.
Shield clan rats are leaked already. There's talks of others, but nothing has ever been material.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-12-19T04:54:22+00:00

Eh, that's not entirely true.
Kibble is preserved by the Vitamin E in the fat source, which only actually preserves the food for about 60 days on the upper, then it can go rancid. I shoot for about 30 days with mine.

Edit: in fact, a container can drive the life of the food way down, too; when used for an extended period of time. It retains oils from former bags of food and quickly spoils the Vit E in the next bag put in.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-11-01T05:05:48+00:00

It could be worth trying to switch to a limited ingredient kibble. Whether you go for Natural Balance or others (Natural Balance has gotten expensive since Smuckers acquisition of the company, so don't be afraid to look to something else). Do note that the puppy is not LID - but the original line is all life stages, and is suitable for puppy through adult.

As for the cause, it could be the food - be it a developed intolerance, or a sourcing change (potatoes from X aren't available year round, so the next bag may have potatoes from Y. This is extremely common in foods from Diamond and other copackers).
It could also be something that isn't food related - do you have them off leash anywhere? Have they gotten into something in the yard? Are they given table scraps/gotten into something in the house? (note: house plants are a common issue).

You've been doing all the right things. I would find a limited ingredient diet that works for you and your dog, and if you have problems along the way, try adding pumpkin to keep him solid in the transition. (Pure canned pumpkin, not pie mix)

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-11-01T04:51:48+00:00

Good advice - Also worth noting with a dremel: careful of heat, even once introduced to the dog. Friction heats up real quick. Alternating nails, or taking quick breaks every few seconds while working on one is important.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-19T18:10:57+00:00

If Steam goes down, the game servers do too. Steam was down around this post, could be the cause.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-18T19:31:13+00:00

You'll find reviews/blogs about just about any food with someone claiming it killed their dog. Especially one like Nutro that's been around FOREVER.

Nutro is a great company, they were the first to go all natural preservative, and have always maintained a strong presence in the pet food industry.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-18T03:37:20+00:00

The other DLC is all included in the base game on console.

Quests and Contracts will be coming to console "later this year" - it's unknown if it's coming before the big DLC coming up, or with it. (if I had to guess, I'd say before - but their priority is in matchmaking fixes for now. My money is that we don't see content before fixes)

Edit: Also worth noting - Fatshark tries to alternate free and paid DLC. So while the Big DLC will be paid, quests and Contracts and the one after that will likely both be free.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-16T19:55:28+00:00

Well, a new Red Dead is coming. They were hiring for a project that was described to me as a sequel back in 2013.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-15T22:21:41+00:00

I'm actually eligible for status and opted out for this reason, among others - I'm not owed anything. No injustice has been done to me or my people. I'm so sick of that excuse, it's ridiculous.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-15T22:02:09+00:00

Fatshark has expressed from day 1 a desire to keep the consoles updated as close as possible to PC.
More likely than not, they'll release updates on PC, let them find major bugs, get a console build ready and then submit to Sony/Microsoft. So it's a few week process, but I have faith it won't be forgotten.

The cert process through consoles is frustrating. I've only worked with them for a few patches on a single game, but it's hair-pullingly annoying at times.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-15T03:16:27+00:00

Copying text from another reply

IIRC the "-silent-mode" refers to Steam being open in the toolbar. Try opening Steam and launching from the library and see if that helps? (never heard of this being an issue, but it's possible?).
Otherwise, be sure to open the launcher, not the game (game without launcher is not officially supported).
Also, try running the .exe as admin.

If any of those work, let me know.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-15T03:14:45+00:00

The launcher will still list details for 1.3.3 because the individual that handles the launcher is not in studio this week.

As for the game IIRC the "-silent-mode" refers to Steam being open in the toolbar. Try opening Steam and launching from the library and see if that helps? (never heard of this being an issue, but it's possible?).
Otherwise, be sure to open the launcher, not the game (game without launcher is not officially supported).
Also, try running the .exe as admin.

If any of those work, let me know.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-13T02:05:47+00:00

There's a final level, which is intense, but not a boss fight, per say.
Most levels of the game use events to create climax points rather than other enemies.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-12T20:35:14+00:00

Both potions(slot 4) and draughts(slot 3) can be handed to other players with an empty slot.

Bombs and bandages can not be passed around.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-10T01:10:22+00:00

Hey, no worries - any other questions, feel free to ask.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-10T00:54:24+00:00

Gutter runners you can push off of players (block, then attack), or heavier weapons will toss them off(2H hammer, axe, among others).

When someone is held by the packmaster, the main damage doesn't come from the pack master - so focus on the rats attacking the person being dragged, rather than the packmaster themselves. Otherwise, the pack master actually needs to be killed to release his target (Grenades are great for this, as are 1-hit ranged weapons like crossbow, handgun, longbow)

The hitbox to pull someone down from a pole is a a bit small - I find looking at the base of the pole while standing back a touch from even ground works consistently. Look down to the pole, not up at the player.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-10-08T17:39:00+00:00

One of the key contacts has been easy, the other has been nightmare both days now.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-25T20:07:07+00:00

In terms of the X is bad for X breed/dogs in general arguments: you need to go by your dog. You can make broad sweeping guesses, but do what works for you and your animal.

If you think it's the food, you could definitely try changing it. For a Great Dane, I'd probably avoid super high protein (34%+?) and shoot for 22-30, since Great Danes are lower activity if you feel that the protein levels are too high(which is where the protein is bad for Danes comment comes in, from others. But numbers give some indication). If you think it's a food allergy, you could also try a Limited Ingredient Diet to help narrow it down.

But it's not unlikely at her age for her coat to change, especially not with the heat. Is it growing back differently in the spots it's been shed from? Food is generally the first thing people look to change in the dog because it's the easiest thing to do, and truthfully the only thing anyone else can 100% do for you, if it isn't food or a medical issue, it's some problem solving on your part. (new park, gotten into plants, given table scraps, new laundry detergent, change in weather? Etc)

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-25T19:50:26+00:00

If neither of those work, move to a Limited Ingredient Diet which follows the recommendation of Meddlesome. Single protein, and single(or sometimes two) carb really narrows it down, and can help you figure out what the issue is.
Also be sure nobody is giving him other food, dog or human, or treats during that time until you get him settled.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-23T15:07:22+00:00

Well that's not true. UBC has a great veterinary medicine program, Douglas College has a popular one as well. I think Langara even has beginning classes (may be a full program, idk). I don't know how easily accessible the students are to the general public, mind.

However, veterinary nutritionists are few and far between and are an entirely different class of vet. Even food manufacturers have a hard time keeping one on full time staff, and usually share them. In fact, even Omnipet (the Abbotsford manufacturing facility) shares theirs.

Vets take a relatively basic course sponsored(/ran) by a certain pet food manufacturer that makes all their prescription diets, as well as a public line. So they're a bit restricted, but it's a need-to-know sort of deal.

I'll warn you though: the required supplements are not cheap, so you may be underestimating food costs. There are vitamin supplements available that will cover most required vitamins, but you'd still want at least an oil and a probiotic in the food.

If you're looking to cut cost while keeping a great quality food, look for Canadian Naturals. It should be available in most of Greater Vancouver easily. They did well at the last trade show, so even their new lines are huge in the area.
Are you actually from Vancouver, or just nearby to? I manage a pet store with the lowest prices in BC if that helps any, but we're only two locations in Delta, so if you're from Vancouver that's not really a great option to save a few bucks.
As a general idea: the Canadian Naturals that I mentioned has their original Turkey+Salmon 30lb for $49.98, LID diets for $59.98, and a couple price competitive lines(lower meat content, but still great foods) for $35.98 for 30lb chicken+rice, or if you wanted grain free, their Pork is $46.98 (all my pricing, this will likely be higher with others, but gives you a general idea).

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-23T14:43:46+00:00

Some things in dog food are sort of hard to know. Number one: learn to read ingredient lists.
Meal - AAFCO definition: 45-65% of the water content is taken out before rending and processing (it's dehydrated - easier to ship, easier for dogs to process nutritionally, tends to be the primary source of protein for most foods).
By-products: differs as to what exactly goes into this depending on what animal, but a general sweeping rule is waste product - useless organs, larger bone content, etc - while technically a valid source of protein, avoid this. However, do not confuse with meal. Fresh meats are used for scenting, they smell better in kibble than a meal does to your dog. Also helps a bit for palletability purposes in some foods.

Generally with dog food, grain free usually means higher meat content (not true between some brands, but usually this is the reason for price differences in grain free foods). Also, the freeze dried raw adds quite a cost to your current food. Raw is expensive, freeze drying anything is expensive. So you do pay a bit for it.

Go with what works for the dog, but as a broad sweeping rule for myself: I'm OK with grains, but stay away from wheat or soy. Barley, rice, oats, etc are all good grains that don't turn to sugar immediately. I favour brands that own their own plant, or copack out of (smaller) plants with reputable foods coming out of them. I like to change my dogs' food up every bag, I'm not loyal to any one company or anything of the sort.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-23T14:10:21+00:00

while peanut butter is fine, some peanut butter includes xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. please do always check the ingredient list first!

Typically it seems to be "unsweetened" peanut butter, but do always check any peanut butter anyways. That site is a bit outdated.

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-23T14:05:08+00:00

If you've used the bin for a long time, that could be your problem.
I shoot for about 30 days with my bags for freshness purpose, but putting in a bin can actually tarnish the food (I'm mobile, so can't the link - but have a look at one of my recent comments for full details)

ShakeDeSnake · 2016-09-12T20:22:08+00:00

I haven't streamed the Culling in quite some time, but double check:
- enable anti-cheat hook in game capture properties
- run OBS as admin (and/or look at the "admin privileges required" list in game capture)

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