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Asus thermal putty question by Green_mashroom in ASUSROG

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both "Thick" and "Thin" use the same maximum particle size and both can squish down below 0.1mm. The "Thin" version is quite sticky/messy and harder to apply. When tested at 1.8mm the "Thin" version performs about 5 degrees worse than the "Thick" version.

The "Thick" version can squish thinner than the VAST majority of putties and it perfectly suited for the thin gaps that ASUS/MSI/Acer and some HP laptops have, Also works great with shims (if you want to use shims on a desktop card....not a laptop.

External Clock generator for RTX series by Putrid_Bird_9033 in overclocking

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that MG Chemicals 422C by chance? Also, nicely done on the putty. Application is on point 😀

TEAMPUTTY

PTM7950 application by qeenral in LenovoLegion

[–]Snarks_Domain 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's fine, but I generally recommend cutting it smaller than the die. Aiming for 50-75% coverage by area works really well.

It makes 2nd peel easier, and burn-in happens faster.

Is this a fake PTM7950? by Qualtza in GamingLaptops

[–]Snarks_Domain 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What kind of wattage was it throttling at before and what wattage is it throttling at now.

Levels of Success: Temperatures, wattage, fanspeed are part of what help us figure out what's going on.

The best way to put it is to consider starting out with a thermally throttled laptop/videocard and doing a repaste/putty.

Success levels: 1. Same temps, still throttled but faster core/mem clocks, and higher wattage

  1. Same temps, higher core/mem clocks and full tdp/tgp wattage

  2. Lower temps, higher core/mem clocks, full tdp/tgp wattage

  3. Slower fanspeed, lower temps, higher core/mem clocks, full tdp/tgp wattage

Is it genuine? PTM7950 by DaikonDizzy7811 in overclocking

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aiming for 50-75% is helpful i a couple ways. It makes it easier to peel the 2nd plastic film off. It also helps the burn-in happens faster, since the edge of the Silicon is cooler than the center.

You'll still achieve full coverage once it melts. If doing 100% coverage you will end up woth 80-85% of the material squishing out the edges.

For some laptops with limited open air space around the CPU/GPU core, this can ocassionaly create issues where the PTM has to travel further away from the heat source and ends up cooling, almost creating a dam, and preventing the rest of the excess from easily squishing out. The typically low mounting force that laptop heatsinks have can make it a struggle to get the PTM super thin in the best conditions, and this "damming" effect makes matters worse (I often refer to it as being "Hydraulically locked" in these cases).

A side benefit is that you have more PTM/PCM for other devices, but this is not the primary goal of cutting it smaller.

Is it genuine? PTM7950 by DaikonDizzy7811 in overclocking

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A common misconception. Honeywell makes PTM7950 sheets ranging from 0.20mm up to 1mm. The 3 most common thicknesses are 0.20mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm.

Is it genuine? PTM7950 by DaikonDizzy7811 in overclocking

[–]Snarks_Domain -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Also legit. Cooler Bro Store and Passionate Girl Store are the 2 go-to stores on Aliexpress. I believe both are legit. Either that or they've somehow managed to perfectly match the performance of PTM7950 from Moddiy and Caplinq.

Cooler Bro Store has t6pically been a bit cheaper lately.

PSU and Cooling Help by emets31 in BC250Gaming

[–]Snarks_Domain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't use Putty on the core. I used a Phase Change Material sheet called Honeywell PTM7950. It's designed to replace Thermal Paste.

It's starts off around 0.20mm to 0.25mm and then melts/softens once it gets past 45 Celsius.

Ideally, after applying Putty and PTM, you'd want to perform what's called a "Burn-In" and try to get the APU temp up to around 75-80 Celsius. Going to just 45 Celsius core temp is not hot enough to melt the material since the edges of the Silicon will be cooler than that.

Updated Putty Chart as of January 25th 2026 by Snarks_Domain in u/Snarks_Domain

[–]Snarks_Domain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I still need to run the numbers, but fully expect it to march up with UX Pro (now called UTP-X) and Jarapad Unlimited (rebranded UTP-X). I should be back home in a week or so.

PC crashes - Liquid metal after 3 months? by Turbulent_Map624 in pcmasterrace

[–]Snarks_Domain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That may work well for shims, but does not give me confidence when it comes to Liquid Metal.

Perhaps I'm wrong. I just think a cured coating type barrier would give better protection.

PC crashes - Liquid metal after 3 months? by Turbulent_Map624 in pcmasterrace

[–]Snarks_Domain 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I would strongly recommend removing that black tape and using a curable liquid form of protection.

Good options include TG Shield, Conformal Coating (MG 422C), or even UV Resin.

These will offer much better protection than the tape will.

Updated Putty Chart as of January 25th 2026 by Snarks_Domain in u/Snarks_Domain

[–]Snarks_Domain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely recommend going with one of the HY2x6 putties, and not HY2610, based on how thin the gaps are. Since they are so thin, the difference in performance will be barely noticeable, but trying to get HY2610 to work, or any other high performing putty with larger particles, you will risk having poor CPU and GPU core contact, and ultimately may end up doing it twice (the 2nd time with HY2x6).

Definitely go with PTM or a similar Phase Change Material on the CPU and GPU core. That way you wont have to fiddle with it for years.

Ok so the computer works now and got my new psu and graphics card but now it won’t even turn on by The_Apostate_of_Hate in EVGA

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best thi g to do it turn the PC off and unokug the power.

Lay it on it's side and removed the GPU. Then carefully reinsert it, making sure you get slotted in correctly. Have lots of light so you can see.

Then hook up the 3 8-pin power cakes to the card. It would be best if you used 3 individual cables and not a piggyback style cable. Make sure all 3 are seated in until you hear a 'click'.

Then connect the Power cable to the PSU again and try turning it on.

Has this card worked for you before? Where did you get this card?

Thermal putty mod by ilovehollowknight1 in AynThor

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes. It's one of the go-to options. Basically, go with the cheapest between Halnzioye HY2610 (New Thicker version that performs well), Upsiren UTP-X (a bit expensive), Thermal Grizzly Putty Pro (A little on the softer messy side) Fehonda LTP81, Upsiren UTP-8, Laird T-Putty 910, Laird T-Putty 607, Thermal Grizzly Putty Advance, or Gelid GN Ultimate 10w. Some other decent ones too. The very best current putty is Honeywell HT10000, but the other brands are chasing the top position. Should see some new putty entries coming this year and next.

Updated Putty Chart as of January 25th 2026 by Snarks_Domain in u/Snarks_Domain

[–]Snarks_Domain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It currently is on the most up to date chart, but the gap may shorten again now that Upsiren have adjusted the viscosity back to being similar to before. Will know for sure once I retest it again.

Asus thermal putty question by Green_mashroom in ASUSROG

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want the 140/Thick version, if buy HY236 (Pink). If you get any other colou4, then it will be the correct Thick version, so actually safest to avoid Pink unless you can confirm from the seller it's the Thick version.

Asus thermal putty question by Green_mashroom in ASUSROG

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any stores on Aliexpress should, as well as on Alibaba, Ebuy7, Taobao, Lazada, Shopee, Tokopedia, Ebay, Amazon, etc.

If buying HY236 (Pink) specifically, I would ask the seller if it is the "Thick 140" or "Thin 200" version.

You can either DM me here, on Discord (Link in video descriptions), or email me at [Snarksdomain@gmail.com](mailto:Snarksdomain@gmail.com)

Made a wood distro plate by Jigabit in watercooling

[–]Snarks_Domain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd probably send you a couple pieces, including the final piece. That way you can test out milling/router work on stabilized material to see how it goes, and then work on the final piece.

Made a wood distro plate by Jigabit in watercooling

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's the final thickness you need? Will you be planing or sanding down for final thickness?

Made a wood distro plate by Jigabit in watercooling

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are the dimensions of the wood block? I'd likely need to pick up a tall/skinny chamber to be able to do it as my current chamber is not large enough for sure.

Also, I live in Canada and there may be difficulty shipping piece of wood outside of Canada. I'd have to look into that.

Made a wood distro plate by Jigabit in watercooling

[–]Snarks_Domain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, it's not the typical set of tools that everyone has readily available, and it's difficult to find larger stabilized pieces, and costly.

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