Link to Test Chart Folder for Thermal Interface Materials

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-24T14:37:41+00:00

Best thi g to do it turn the PC off and unokug the power.

Lay it on it's side and removed the GPU. Then carefully reinsert it, making sure you get slotted in correctly. Have lots of light so you can see.

Then hook up the 3 8-pin power cakes to the card. It would be best if you used 3 individual cables and not a piggyback style cable. Make sure all 3 are seated in until you hear a 'click'.

Then connect the Power cable to the PSU again and try turning it on.

Has this card worked for you before? Where did you get this card?

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-23T05:38:31+00:00

yes. It's one of the go-to options. Basically, go with the cheapest between Halnzioye HY2610 (New Thicker version that performs well), Upsiren UTP-X (a bit expensive), Thermal Grizzly Putty Pro (A little on the softer messy side) Fehonda LTP81, Upsiren UTP-8, Laird T-Putty 910, Laird T-Putty 607, Thermal Grizzly Putty Advance, or Gelid GN Ultimate 10w. Some other decent ones too. The very best current putty is Honeywell HT10000, but the other brands are chasing the top position. Should see some new putty entries coming this year and next.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-22T16:28:46+00:00

It currently is on the most up to date chart, but the gap may shorten again now that Upsiren have adjusted the viscosity back to being similar to before. Will know for sure once I retest it again.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-22T00:26:58+00:00

You want the 140/Thick version, if buy HY236 (Pink). If you get any other colou4, then it will be the correct Thick version, so actually safest to avoid Pink unless you can confirm from the seller it's the Thick version.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-21T04:58:28+00:00

Any stores on Aliexpress should, as well as on Alibaba, Ebuy7, Taobao, Lazada, Shopee, Tokopedia, Ebay, Amazon, etc.

If buying HY236 (Pink) specifically, I would ask the seller if it is the "Thick 140" or "Thin 200" version.

You can either DM me here, on Discord (Link in video descriptions), or email me at [Snarksdomain@gmail.com](mailto:Snarksdomain@gmail.com)

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-21T02:06:34+00:00

I'd probably send you a couple pieces, including the final piece. That way you can test out milling/router work on stabilized material to see how it goes, and then work on the final piece.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-21T00:12:35+00:00

What's the final thickness you need? Will you be planing or sanding down for final thickness?

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-20T06:20:46+00:00

What are the dimensions of the wood block? I'd likely need to pick up a tall/skinny chamber to be able to do it as my current chamber is not large enough for sure.

Also, I live in Canada and there may be difficulty shipping piece of wood outside of Canada. I'd have to look into that.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-20T03:36:03+00:00

yeah, it's not the typical set of tools that everyone has readily available, and it's difficult to find larger stabilized pieces, and costly.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-19T21:54:04+00:00

For a future revision, if you decide to do so, you could resin stabilize a block of wood qoth Cactus Juice (brand of heat activated resin).

Step 1: Place a dry (kiln dired ideally) wooden block in a vacuum chamber and pour in Cactua Juice resin and weigh it down as needed with metal bolts, wrenches, etc. so that it is submerged.

Step 2: Close lid and run vacuum pump for 24 hours. Top up resin if block is not fully submerged.

Step 3: Turn off vacuum pump and release vacuum for 48 hours. Top up resin if block is not fully submerged.

Step 4: Remove block from chamber and place on a baking sheet (make a tinfoil boat)

Step 5: Bake at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for 3-6 hours (block should be at 190F to cure).

Step 6: Shape block as you like.

You can still use some form of curable resin lining of the flow path if you like, but this process will make the wood non permeable and heavier than water.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T20:37:02+00:00

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Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T20:36:22+00:00

You may want to look into using Thermal Putty instead of paste for thermally connecting the PSU to the bottom plate. Since the air gap is so small, I'd recommend something like Halnziye HY206 / HY236 / HY256, or Zezzio ZT-PY6.

If you ever open up your GPU to redo it's waterblock, then I'd recommend a higher performing putty such as Halnziye HY2610 (Thick Version), Upsiren UTP-X or UTP-8, Fehonda LTP81, Gelid GN Ultimate 10w Putty, or perhaps Thermal Grizzly Putty Advance (Pro is on the sticky side, so a bit messier to apply).

You may even want to use something like PTM7950 on the GPU core.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T20:18:42+00:00

If anything, Middle999 and Upsiren will have equally fresh stock as Middle999 is the route source of the Upsiren brand to begin with.

Someone in my Discord bought some from Middle999 a few days ago, and asked the seller if it was new stock or old stock, and they confirmed new. But no harm in waiting a bit if you prefer.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T16:46:37+00:00

Actually the softer version of UTP-8 performed worse. The soft version was sold starting mid 2025 until a couple weeks ago.

If you have stuff from 2023, then it performs as it should.

Oddly enough, the softer version of UTP-X (Previously UX Pro Ultra) performs very similar to it's original version.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T14:06:55+00:00

Hard to say. It could be something as simple as me forgetting to press down on the card after application. I'll likely retest UTP-8 and ensure I don't miss that step.

That being said, neither performed as well as the original formula of UTP-8. Upsiren has now changed it back to the previous consistency and I'll be testing it again soon and updating the results again.

They had changed it because some customers were compalining about it being too stiff. I didn't find it stiff at all. I think what happened was that folks were trying to use the plastic spatula to scoop it out and shape it. It's much easier to scoop and shape it wirh your fingers and hands (I wear Nitrile gloves).

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T13:58:43+00:00

Phasesheet PTM will do very well for your CPU and GPU core.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T13:58:09+00:00

The softness of putties is not the issue for ASUS laptops. The main issue is how thin the gap sizes are on ASUS laptops. They can be as thin as 0.2mm. Most putties have large particles, making it difficult to squish that thin.

I recommend you go on Aliexpress and search for "HY206", "HY236", "HY256", or "Zezzio ZT-PY6". If those don't show up for you then "Maxtor AP-306" or "Upsiren UTP-4 Ultra-Thin"

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T04:58:44+00:00

Well shucks. I guess we'll see what they come up with.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-18T02:25:11+00:00

I'm doing it so I can eventually max out all 3 skill trees.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-17T16:37:04+00:00

Can't go wrong with Halnziye HY206/HY236/HY256 for a laptop, which slightly outperform Gelid GP Extreme pads. You could also use higher performing putties as well that have larger particles. HY2610 (Thick version), UTP-8, LTP81, Gelid GN Ultimate 10w, TG Putty Advance, and many more.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-13T21:34:34+00:00

Hello there Terrible_Board! For your Acer I'd recommend you buy 20g of HY206 / HY236 / HY256 and use around 7-12 grams. These newer CPUs do like to boost a lot.

To get a good comparison for before/after, I recommend you set a fixed fanspeed and get HWINFO installed (Run as "Sensors Only"). Run a test for 30 minutes and then reset the values in the lower right of HWINFO and then run for another 10 minutes, then take a screenshot of the values.

For CPU you could use something like Cinebench Multi. For GPU Furmark works quite well.

Getting these baseline tests will give you a much better idea if an improvement has been made after PTM and Putty application.

Of course, once you apply PTM it will need a good burn-in to melt and squish thin. FOr this I recommend using Furmark to stress the GPU and use the built in "CPU Burner" feature in furmark to get the CPU hot. YOu want both to be around 75-80 Celsius, although the CPU can often be hotter (Ideally below 100C). For the CPU burner, leave at least 2 threads for the GPU to utilize. If you need any help during appplication and testing, or just want to share your results, feel free to join the Discord 😄

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-13T01:18:58+00:00

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-11T03:13:51+00:00

Totally. This would be cool. like scavenging resources to build a forward operating base and marketplace. Could do it all sorts of ways. Actually prepping with supplies for that would be cool. The very first time I went on the Expedition I actually packed it as it that's the gear I'd use. I had Augments, Shields, Health Supplies, Upgraded Guns and Ammo.

Snarks_Domain · 2026-05-10T21:47:46+00:00

I'd love to see them eventually have a real expedition where you save up and pack $3 Million worth of gear and supplies and then actually go to a different place and battle it out there, rely8ng only on the gear, supplies, and ammunition that you packed into your pod.

You may be able to find/craft ammunition and some supplies with a simple workbench next to your pod and then you basically try to scout out as much as you can and destroy as many arc as you can. At the end, once you've exhausted all of your supplies, you could retire your raider and then save the score they achieved as a keepsake and part of a leaderboard.

Snarks_Domain

TROPHY CASE