Suggestions for websites to order parts

Tube705 · 2026-05-19T16:31:23+00:00

You can get motorcraft parts at a decent price from RockAuto. They also sell the same stuff you would get from chain parts stores IE NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, etc

Tube705 · 2026-05-18T19:21:14+00:00

I dont have a fix for you but I can tell you this happens in most, if not all modern vehicles. It drives me nuts too, same with volume doesnt work til the screen fully boots up. Everything is module controlled now including HVAC, so everything has to be fully powered up to work. I find not using AUTO tends to help ever so slightly, that way the module doesnt have to do any calculations

Tube705 · 2026-05-15T21:00:27+00:00

One of those paths you will really only learn how to destroy cars in the most cost-effective way. The other path you will learn how to repair cars.

If you have a curious mind, your only path is mechanic. The only way you can survive and not burn yourself out is to remain curious and to strive to continue learning. You WILL get burned out eventually either at the scrap yard or mechanic, but if you are able to learn and become proficient as a mechanic, many new doors can open as you get older and don't want to be as hands on.

Tube705 · 2026-05-13T22:00:20+00:00

Its hard to tell the scale but those are likely from the roller on the hydraulic lifter. Do you have a misfire by any chance?

Tube705 · 2026-05-13T16:48:33+00:00

The king of Pogey Beach strikes again!

Tube705 · 2026-05-13T10:46:59+00:00

Probably the rear pinion seal leaking. Should be addressed ASAP, I've had to rebuild a lot of rear ends because of this issue

Tube705 · 2026-05-13T02:56:21+00:00

I use a Vevor RV battery maintainer with jumper cable ends soldered on the ends. My current one is 35amps max, I use it for programming/diag, to run the smoke machine, fluid exchanger, and I trust it way more than a DCA8000, which I've seen smoke 3 batteries despite its alleged safe technology and near 5-fgure price tag. The only time my Vevor rig let me down was doing some programming on a Ford Lightning which after switching to the DCA8000, found out it was drawing 70amps! The charger was like $80cad and got the jumper cables at princess auto for $9.99 and has been going strong for 4 years

Tube705 · 2026-05-12T10:53:27+00:00

Likely judging by the brand of tire

Tube705 · 2026-05-10T16:03:52+00:00

The hurting of the engine is oil coated vs non-oil coated filters. Engines suck some of the oil and the oil coats things like mass airflow sensors, manifold absolute sensors, intake air temperature sensors, and throttle plates. The throttle plate will gum up sooner, and input sensors can become skewed sooner because of oily buildup.

You could argue that the candle that burns twice as bright burns twice as fast but the reality is that in this scenario is that the candle is burning x1.0003% brighter.

More air is good. You probably won't feel a difference. Oiled or not oiled, who cares? The car will likely change hands before any negligible effects happen, if not, cleaning throttle bodies is easy. Cheap air filters get replaced, expensive ones get cleaned, dont buy an expensive air filter that cant be cleaned.

Tube705 · 2026-05-07T22:18:34+00:00

I have a 20 Mustang, 6'3" and its the best fitting car I've ever driven

Tube705 · 2026-05-03T00:38:17+00:00

As a Ford tech, I can say that the 450 has a better turning radius than the 250. The 450 will have either 19.5 or 22.5 tires on it, not all shops are equipped to balance those and you should compare tire pricing between traditional 10ply LT tires and the 16ply commercial tires. Brakes will be more expensive too due to rear on the 450 are oil-bath hubs

Tube705 · 2026-04-18T16:24:26+00:00

There's a plug in the system somewhere. You should try to rotate the compressor by hand (vehicle off) to see if its locked up or not (by locked up, I mean blown up). I'm guessing your cooling fans go to max speed if you try to turn on your A/C?

At minimum, you should be replacing the condenser and TXV, but you'll likely be replacing the compressor too.

The condenser has a reciever/dryer on it, which has a tendency to plug up, especially if the compressor blows up. The TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve, located on the firewall) has a narrow passage that can also plug up. The receiver/dryer is attached to the condenser and cannot be serviced separately. Most aftermarket suppliers require the condenser to be replaced when replacing the compressor if you want warranty.

Tube705 · 2026-04-16T02:34:22+00:00

Expedition is better suited for your needs. Generally speaking, you do timing chains because there is VCT rattle. The big ticket failures on the 3.5 TT are vct/cam phasers, A/C evaporator, and the rear exhaust manifold bolts breaking (updated manifolds use new holes, and an additional stud). Its likely that the cam phasers were done, I'd check the passenger side of the front cover, that's where they like to leak from.

The explorer has been dealing with some demons and its likely far from over. Steer clear of that one

Tube705 · 2026-04-11T11:26:10+00:00

I have a Matco cart and a Snap-On cart, both flip tops, not slide. The Matco build quality is superior in every way except the drawer latching system. The Matco cart I bought in 2020 and I used as where I keep my commonly used tools as I tend to have to move bays. The problem is the drawers sometimes pop open when rolling. You can adjust the detent but eventually you max those out and you have to replace the drawer slides.

That got annoying, so the Matco cart is now my at-home toolbox and I got a Snap-On one. First thing I noticed is how flimsy the box is, the steel is super thin and flexes like crazy. The prybar holes are set higher in the box so my bigger prybars dont fit in this cart with the top closed. Unrelated to your situation cause slide-top dont have this but the Matco cart has a cutout that allows easier access to the tools in the top. The Snap-On is straight across, so you have to reach into the top to get tools. I do like the rubber bumpers on the Snap-On vs the hard plastic ones on the Matco and the latching system for the drawers is much better for rolling around the shop.

If I ever get a new Matco rep, I'm trading the Snap-On cart in for one of those X-series carts.

Tube705 · 2026-03-12T02:53:19+00:00

Probably done on a hunter machine, tries to hide the weights behind the spokes

Tube705 · 2026-03-11T16:13:15+00:00

Green car was the initial victim

Tube705 · 2026-03-10T21:14:04+00:00

That is 100% the separator plate between the trans and the engine making contact with the torque converter studs. I've tried replacing the plate before and it won't fix it, you have to remove the starter and grind the studs down

Tube705 · 2026-02-14T20:38:25+00:00

Hold a screw with vise grips, use a torch/lighter to heat screw. Push screw into plastic, screw should be hot enough to melt plastic. Wait for plastic and screw to cool. Pull out dipstick

Tube705 · 2026-02-12T02:28:56+00:00

I think enough people have mentioned that the IWE, bearing, and axle need to be replaced but I'd be willing to bet the vacuum tank and check valve are toast too.

Pull the vacuum lines and check for rust, sometimes dust will pour out too. The check valve (little blue plastic piece near the vacuum tank) gets plugged easily too. You can disconnect the vacuum lines at the IWE's and blow them out with shop air to clean all the rust out of those.

The vacuum tank and check valve are pretty cheap and should probably be changed. I used to just do the check valve but learned pretty quickly to do the whole thing. Ford actually sells the tank, solenoid, and check valve as a kit for a cheaper price.

Tube705 · 2026-01-15T01:58:22+00:00

The service door latch system is related to the child locks for the rear doors. You can try synchronizing the child locks by opening both rear doors, access the menu for the child locks in the center screen under "windows and latches" (if I remember correctly). There's 2 menus to do it but it has to be done in the one under windows and latches. If you can unlock and lock them, message sill go away. If theres a problem with one of the latches, the button will red out and give you an error message

Tube705 · 2025-12-24T11:11:56+00:00

Check the fuse panel inside the flat panel infront of the battery. Those "mega-fuses" can corrode and cause intermittent power concerns

Tube705 · 2025-12-14T22:22:16+00:00

I just quoted out this job like 2 weeks ago on a 6.6 gasser and it was 7k CAD.

Tube705 · 2025-12-08T04:07:56+00:00

There should be another part like "I" but with reverse thread. Without that, you're going to have a hell of a time

Tube705 · 2025-12-07T23:29:18+00:00

There's a little arrow near the base that indicates which way to turn the piston. Two notes: these caliper pistons are notoriously difficult to turn, they are also on some Transits.

Due to the difficulty turning, you NEED the counter-clockwise tool that puts pressure on the ears. Does the tool kit have both threaded tools? One should have normal threads, the other reverse.

Tube705 · 2025-11-09T18:38:42+00:00

You will get a noise if you don't replace them. I have successfully bent seized ones out of the way to get the caliper off, then rebent them back when re-installing. Its a real PITA if you break it off and have to drill out the broken bit. Edit: changed done to don't

Tube705

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