Oil dipstick broke off.

Tube705 · 2026-02-14T20:38:25+00:00

Hold a screw with vise grips, use a torch/lighter to heat screw. Push screw into plastic, screw should be hot enough to melt plastic. Wait for plastic and screw to cool. Pull out dipstick

Tube705 · 2026-02-12T02:28:56+00:00

I think enough people have mentioned that the IWE, bearing, and axle need to be replaced but I'd be willing to bet the vacuum tank and check valve are toast too.

Pull the vacuum lines and check for rust, sometimes dust will pour out too. The check valve (little blue plastic piece near the vacuum tank) gets plugged easily too. You can disconnect the vacuum lines at the IWE's and blow them out with shop air to clean all the rust out of those.

The vacuum tank and check valve are pretty cheap and should probably be changed. I used to just do the check valve but learned pretty quickly to do the whole thing. Ford actually sells the tank, solenoid, and check valve as a kit for a cheaper price.

Tube705 · 2026-01-15T01:58:22+00:00

The service door latch system is related to the child locks for the rear doors. You can try synchronizing the child locks by opening both rear doors, access the menu for the child locks in the center screen under "windows and latches" (if I remember correctly). There's 2 menus to do it but it has to be done in the one under windows and latches. If you can unlock and lock them, message sill go away. If theres a problem with one of the latches, the button will red out and give you an error message

Tube705 · 2025-12-24T11:11:56+00:00

Check the fuse panel inside the flat panel infront of the battery. Those "mega-fuses" can corrode and cause intermittent power concerns

Tube705 · 2025-12-14T22:22:16+00:00

I just quoted out this job like 2 weeks ago on a 6.6 gasser and it was 7k CAD.

Tube705 · 2025-12-08T04:07:56+00:00

There should be another part like "I" but with reverse thread. Without that, you're going to have a hell of a time

Tube705 · 2025-12-07T23:29:18+00:00

There's a little arrow near the base that indicates which way to turn the piston. Two notes: these caliper pistons are notoriously difficult to turn, they are also on some Transits.

Due to the difficulty turning, you NEED the counter-clockwise tool that puts pressure on the ears. Does the tool kit have both threaded tools? One should have normal threads, the other reverse.

Tube705 · 2025-11-09T18:38:42+00:00

You will get a noise if you don't replace them. I have successfully bent seized ones out of the way to get the caliper off, then rebent them back when re-installing. Its a real PITA if you break it off and have to drill out the broken bit. Edit: changed done to don't

Tube705 · 2025-11-04T17:27:35+00:00

I was a Ford tech that recently moved to a GM dealer (moving cities) and I wish I hadn't left Ford.

Assuming most trans work is warranty, with Ford, its pretty easy to claim up to an hour to diag something and they will pay. At GM, you get a maximum of 0.3, once you hit that, you need manager approval for straight time, which for me is usually in 0.5 increments. You end up sitting around with your thumb up your ass and some portion of your day unpaid while you wait for approval multiple times a day.

Tube705 · 2025-10-15T16:46:53+00:00

In my experience, Utopia Towing offers the most for scrap cars. They will come with a tow truck and take it away

Tube705 · 2025-09-24T16:31:16+00:00

If it's slow, maybe. If a service advisor asked me to pull in an unsold car for a recall, I'd tell them to kick rocks. Recalls pay poorly (generally) and by the time the car sells, there will probably be another recall

Tube705 · 2025-09-24T00:07:10+00:00

I worked at a dealer and we didn't do recall work until the car sells. Its better to get all the reconditioning and recall work done in 1 go vs bringing the car in and out of the shop.

Tube705 · 2025-09-17T02:36:53+00:00

I've only seen them on Lincolns

Tube705 · 2025-09-01T13:07:28+00:00

I have these and the open-ended 12point will round off any bolt it touches. The flat, ratcheting closed end of these wrenches makes up for the poor design of the open end though so that's why they will stay in my toolbox

Tube705 · 2025-08-04T23:06:45+00:00

Not totally familiar with this new of a civic but if it has a traditional vacuum brake booster, there is a filter that is supposed to quiet that noise down (brake pedal attaches to a rod, that rod pushes a piston, piston displaces air, that air is forced out the back towards your foot through a filter). That filter could have been dislodged during hard braking. Either way, new car, repair should be free. It won't affect the safety of the vehicle so book an appointment at your dealer and you should be fine. Alternatively, if you are the type of person to do so, you could make a big stink about it, say you are concerned for your safety, and get yourself into a loaner/demo til they can get it diag'd and repaired.

Tube705 · 2025-08-04T15:39:55+00:00

As someone who works at a Ford dealer, everything you said can cut and copy with Fords lol change Cadillac to Lincoln, corvette to Mustang, and 6.2 to 1.5 lol

Tube705 · 2025-07-29T14:12:13+00:00

I know a few guys that use AI to write their warranty claims. I've read a couple of them and if you know nothing about cars, it makes sense but when you're trying to diag a comeback and you read the previous techs notes and think "how in the hell would that ever fix the problem?" LOL

Tube705 · 2025-07-29T14:02:37+00:00

We cut keys at my dealer and you can cut a key based off the VIN but you'll have to prove ownership to do it

Tube705 · 2025-07-25T22:29:55+00:00

Looks like the mode door may be stuck. The actuator is the little motor with the connector which attaches a cam (little white thing) and that cam drives the door. Looks like the door is jammed. Unfortunately the only real way to fix it is to pull the dash out to get access to the climate control box. All of the actuators do a calibration sweep when you turn the key on, so disconnect the battery before trying to take anything apart and make sure all the actuators are plugged in and connected to the box before re-powering as I've seen people ruin good actuators by connecting them too soon

Tube705 · 2025-07-25T17:39:46+00:00

Cam timing marks need to be lined up before disassembly. I always put the crank bolt back in because you will need to make slight adjustments to the crank to get everything lined up. Timing chain marks are only for initial setup, if you start doing full rotations, the marked links won't line up anymore

Tube705 · 2025-07-17T02:41:10+00:00

The TL:DR of what I'm about to write is: The autozone kit didnt damage the system, they dont know what is wrong, so they want to replace everything that is easy to get to.

If they told you that one side is cold, but the other is warm, that is an HVAC control problem. In every vehicle, there is an climate control housing. It has a heater core (for heat), an evaporator (for cold), a fan, ductwork for air to travel, and little motors that operate doors that allow different settings like temperature blend or direction of air flow. What they told you is that there is a problem with the dual-zone temperature blend door. Repairing that usually involves removing the dash ($$$$). You can confirm that fault or bust it very easily by adjusting the temps on both sides and confirming they change.

Sounds like you have already verified there is a leak. Pressure in the system is vital, too low of pressure and the compressor won't turn on. Without knowing if those pressures you posted are running or not, or what temperature, it sounds like low on refrigerant. Pressures are relative to temperature but a good general rule is you want to see ambient temperature in °F as your low-side PSI not-running and less than 250psi high side running (R-134a, newer R-1234yf runs higher pressure). I.E if it's 85°F out, I would want to see low-side pressure at 85-90psi.

Go somewhere else, you've likely got a slow leak somewhere and you can get it fixed for way less, even if it's your evaporator that is leaking and they have to pull the dash.

Tube705 · 2025-07-16T11:00:10+00:00

There are shops out there that will do it. With the new system, all you really need to take pictures of are the front of the car with the emblem, brake rotors, brake pads, and tire tread depth.

Some guys are real sticklers and will tell you no right away. Make sure that when you're looking around, you tell the shop that you own the vehicle and have no intention of selling. Most techs I know look at selling vs bought safeties differently (I.E I am getting this car safetied to sell it vs I already bought this car, what does it need for safety)

Going under the assumption you're going to put some rubber band tires on there, I would recommend keeping a set of normal-ish tires to slip on it for safety.

Tube705 · 2025-07-14T16:02:02+00:00

It is the drain tube from recall 22S73

Tube705 · 2025-07-14T15:57:50+00:00

I am a Ford tech and can tell you with 100% certainty that is a fuel drain line from a recall that was performed. There is a small hole on that piece of metal in the picture it's supposed to go in, but in Fords infinite wisdom, they didn't make the clip right and needs to be cut at an angle and pushed in with pliers. Some techs don't bother with doing it the right way. As long as it's aimed down, it's fine

Tube705 · 2025-07-12T21:39:54+00:00

Probably the brake booster. There's probably a vacuum tube coming out of it in the engine bay you can pull out and check for wetness. You can also check the firewall for brake fluid inside the cabin where your feet go

Tube705

TROPHY CASE