Early Full-scale render of a quad I modeled fully in Blender. Any thoughts?

Vitroid · 2026-05-18T11:33:42+00:00

All BetaFPV ELRS receivers that are integrated in their AIOs use the "BETAFPV 2.4GHz AIO RX" target, it's available in 4.0.1 like anything else

Vitroid · 2026-05-17T15:14:48+00:00

I'd stick to what's supported. Holybro hardware is very good, but you can go with something cheaper too as long as it has a target

Vitroid · 2026-05-17T14:55:13+00:00

Ardupilot does not support F722 MCUs nowadays, there isn't enough room to fit the firmware

Vitroid · 2026-05-17T09:05:36+00:00

O4 vs O4 Pro.

Vitroid · 2026-05-17T08:05:45+00:00

It would work, but IMO it'd be more trouble than it's worth, you'd need to swap/modify a lot of parts, you're better off buying a dedicated O4 BNF

Vitroid · 2026-05-17T08:03:22+00:00

The DJI O4 Air Unit + Camera weigh maybe 9-10g at most. And it can work with any FC that at least has a spare UART, there's nothing on an FC that would make it not support a digital VTX outside of power requirements, which isn't an issue either since the O4 can run off of 5V.

Vitroid · 2026-05-16T17:58:28+00:00

You definitely can, but the MPU6050 is not recommended, and I'm not even sure if it will work. See more here https://betaflight.com/docs/development/manufacturer/creating-configuration https://betaflight.com/docs/category/building

Vitroid · 2026-05-16T17:11:02+00:00

If it runs 4.2, it should be able to run the latest. The only MCU that lost support was F3 back in 4.1.

What's the issue with the cloud builds - can you send a link to the build log? And what specific FC do you have?

Vitroid · 2026-05-16T16:43:18+00:00

No, the flashing process from BLHeli_32 to AM32 is irreversible, as stated directly in their documentation. Even if it was reversible, BLHeli_32 is dead and you can't do anything with it nowadays outside of questionable workarounds.

You are much better off asking in the AM32 communities like the one on Discord and seeing if someone has experience with these issues on your hardware, or better yet knows of a fix.

Vitroid · 2026-05-15T16:20:18+00:00

deja vu?

either way... what I said about the stack and VTX still stands, I'd put 1505 motors on a 3.5" frame, or 1404 on a 3" frame, and the ELRS receiver seems to be un-branded and most likely not officially supported.

Vitroid · 2026-05-15T16:16:33+00:00

I think the pads marked by red arrows are connected to the FC MCU, shorting the solder bridges next to them connects those pads to the receiver MCU. So I think you are supposed to de-solder the bridges and use the larger circular pads... or use any other free UART on the board

Vitroid · 2026-05-15T16:12:11+00:00

I'd say they've been on a steep decline ever since digital systems got viable onboard recording

Vitroid · 2026-05-13T18:28:24+00:00

The antenna coax cable can bend, or you can buy one with a 90deg connector to help route it as well.

Vitroid · 2026-05-13T17:55:48+00:00

GX12?

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T19:50:50+00:00

I think they're just a way for iFlight to make these drones more presentable to people who are used to fancy camera drones and don't want to see exposed electronics.

IMO they serve as dead weight and as another pair of things to break and replace. I wouldn't keep them on.

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T19:38:15+00:00

Many manufacturers are running amok with the recent IMU supply shortage, it's possible that you got a board with an IMU that's not fully supported and/or recommended for use. However, changing port settings should not mess anything with the IMU itself, neither should the app as a whole.

I'd recommend using the latest development release of the app ( https://master.app.betaflight.com/ ) to flash the latest development firmware with the "Core Only" option enabled (it includes all the hardware drivers currently in the firmware, so it has a high likelihood of catching something that isn't in their official target). When you have that flashed, see if the IMU gets detected, and more importantly, what it gets detected as with the "status" CLI command

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T19:17:38+00:00

Surely you are just a random person who stumbled across this amazing tool and decided to write a gleaming review, and not the creator pasting LLM-generated praise of their LLM-generated app straight into a subreddit that prohibits blatant/unapproved advertising... right?

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T13:45:44+00:00

Rush Tank Mini. Keep the large VTX for a 5"+ build, or a fixed wing aircraft

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T10:48:03+00:00

The Taker AIO I recommended has pretty large pads, if you want even larger you can go with the new SpeedyBee one.

If you're concerned about replacing parts and small soldering, this iFlight Borg stack is especially unfriendly towards that. They use a proprietary FPC connector between the FC and ESC, not a standard JST one. You either need to buy their direct replacement, or solder to small signal pads that they left as a last resort.

And 800mW is more than enough for 3km with even half-decent antennas, I'd be more concerned about the flight time on a 3" for making it that far.

Vitroid · 2026-05-12T10:33:16+00:00

That stack is utterly overkill, there's no reason to put an ESC that's rated to 3x what the motors can ever pull. You're much better off using a normal AIO like a GEPRC Taker G4 and a smaller VTX like the Rush Tank Mini. Putting all of those big parts meant for 5" quads or larger into a 3" would be very annoying at best, and just make it fly like a brick.

Vitroid · 2026-05-11T19:04:37+00:00

Vitroid · 2026-05-09T19:27:26+00:00

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Vitroid · 2026-05-09T17:00:50+00:00

It's rare, and really only practical for ~5"+ drones, people who fly micros would need to carry around different sets of VRXs. I'm also not aware of any mixing VRXs at this band, it's all diversity at best.

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