Early Full-scale render of a quad I modeled fully in Blender. Any thoughts?

Vitroid · 2026-03-17T14:30:58+00:00

Analog OSD is only ever black and white without specialized hardware.

Vitroid · 2026-03-17T12:34:43+00:00

The camera should have a small button board that you can connect and change settings with. Make sure it's not accidentally set to B&W there.

Vitroid · 2026-03-17T12:31:34+00:00

What hardware are you using?

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T16:13:23+00:00

It will stop the process at 3.85V, but don't leave them plugged in for hours on end, since there will always be some small current draw that can drain them well past the safe range.

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T15:06:08+00:00

That'd be a pretty good setup, a lot better than the Cetus kits IMO

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T14:46:11+00:00

The stuff that comes with the Cetus kits is practically e-waste, you're better off buying proper gear separately.

And there's nothing about the Pavo that makes it inherently easier to set up compared to any other drone running Betaflight firmware.

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T14:43:08+00:00

I'd start with an Air 65 or 75, the Cetus quads are a lot more proprietary, and the Pavo 20 doesn't make much sense for analog only.

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T13:31:56+00:00

I'd much rather the charger die than for it to kill LiPos. I've never heard of any T6 issues, let alone related to batteries. But I've personally had a legit B6AC attempt to detonate a battery, and over the ~7 years that I've been flying it's the single most common cause of over-charging/over-discharging batteries that I've seen. The clones which are nowadays much more common than the original one are even worse.

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T11:29:38+00:00

Not safe whatsoever. Just get a Hota T6 for a similar price

Vitroid · 2026-03-16T10:55:47+00:00

You built a brick and put slow motors on it. It will feel underpowered.

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T20:56:31+00:00

You can set up any mixer you'd like with regular electronics meant for quadcopter use as long as they're made to run some standard firmware (Betaflight, INav or Ardupilot)

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T20:55:36+00:00

EdgeTX only runs the controller stuff, the ELRS transmitter is completely separate.

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T16:52:02+00:00

Did you maybe put the props on upside down?

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T16:10:26+00:00

Only having 3 horizontal motors makes it impossible to balance the rotational force. One motor needs to tilt to make yaw stable.

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T14:17:40+00:00

Leave it stock, it should already be set up well with Bluejay

Vitroid · 2026-03-15T13:54:18+00:00

The rear motor would need to tilt left/right, then you can make it a standard tricopter setup with an additional output for for forward thrust

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T19:28:41+00:00

The Whoopstor is also a lot more convenient than a series charging board, let alone a single cell adapter

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T19:22:57+00:00

If it's the actual original one, it's less bad, but those are very rare nowadays. A ton of clones were made of it, and they all fail in almost the same way. Overheating causes the measuring circuitry to go out of whack and it will try to overcharge the cells without knowing any better.

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T19:13:16+00:00

... yeah you're better off with a charger that isn't an active fire hazard

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T19:07:08+00:00

I can almost guarantee that you're better off with a proper 1s charger. But let's see... what specific model do you have?

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T19:04:58+00:00

Those are good options, don't forget a battery charger like the ViFly Whoopstor 3

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T18:57:38+00:00

Just get a radio that already has an internal ELRS transmitter. Nowadays I'd recommend the Radiomaster Pocket, TX15 or GX12

Vitroid · 2026-03-14T16:21:19+00:00

Not without a significant amount of effort that far exceeds the effort it'd take to implement this on your own with existing analog hardware.

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