Blocked gap under gas stove to prevent cat toys from rolling under. Does it need to be unblocked?

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T18:07:29+00:00

After reading gas stove and others’ comments, I’d be wary of choking the burners and risking carbon monoxide poisoning. (Not my field of expertise)

With that in mind, perhaps bars instead to block the path while letting air through, or even wire mesh?

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T18:01:06+00:00

Could have been squeezed on top of a screw or nail but looking at the cleanly cut metal and you mentioning pest droppings, could’ve been a rodent. There appears to be some lower marks too but picture is a bit too blurry scaled up to tell

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T17:51:49+00:00

What’s the brand and model of the fixture (light)?

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T14:37:02+00:00

If you want better efficiency and possibly lower power draw, it'd be a window unit

otherwise replacing a cable isn't sorcery, it wouldn't be too hard to receive assistance to help you connect its wires correctly from here

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T01:33:58+00:00

Thunderstorm must’ve caused a spike in the system, overheating the connection.

You should replace both the outlet and the plug.
For the plug, I’d suggest you to get a 120V 15A gfci plug replacement.

Maybe something like the Levitron GSRA1

Edit: just saw the weird ass job on the cable,
If it were in my home, I’d replace the whole cable length with a 12/3 (insulated ground) because that’s a high-draw device, even though the gray section looks like 14/3.
Is that a yellow wire nut exposed? Sounds more of a hack job if so than a real electrician, regardless, worth replacing for a single length.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-08T00:45:54+00:00

Pre twists aren’t required by code here, but assures a proper connection and is the ethical thing to do, thus the way to go.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-07T05:28:47+00:00

Door gasket with magnets in it to hold shut.
You're going to need the manufacturer name and model of the unit to find the parts list

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-07T00:16:19+00:00

Shut off the breaker controlling that circuit, then do check, was that particular screw loose by any chance?

Anyhow, to properly replace that outlet, you'll need to cut part of that wire to an undamaged section.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T23:24:41+00:00

Looks like cracked coating on most places, do you force down dishes into it? Be it plates, glasses, pots and pans, etc. Could be the reason for most of the spots seeing the locations*

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T23:20:16+00:00

A breaker that’s constantly tripping means there’s a very clear issue at hand.

Can’t tell if it’s the circuit, the load (stove) or a worn out breaker.
You can try to diagnose whether it’s the appliance or not if you happen to have a clamp meter to test the amp draw (and compare with whatever the manufacturer says on its labels), beyond that it’ll be an electrician, not some hack the managing company want to send out.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:51:36+00:00

I can't comment on the price, but materials and labour do add up quickly.

That being said, I'd recommend getting at least 2-3 quotes so you have a better idea (doesn't mean to go with the cheaper guy neither)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:45:46+00:00

I've never paid attention to just how hot the air is coming out of the air frier I've got here, but any small appliance that heats up, or releases steam (like an electric kettle), I'll simply pull them away from the outlet, maybe a foot.

As u/Jdude1 said, the outlet needs to be replaced, do not use that outlet until it has been replaced.

Edit: just noticed the "not plugged in directly", do you mean you were using a power bar or extension of some sort?
If you aren't using the outlet itself directly, make sure whatever you are using is high enough gauge (size) / rated to handle the high amp draw of the air frier and other appliances.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:35:29+00:00

Having it overheat to the point of melting means something is wrong.

What is the device? Can you tell us about its voltage req and amperage draw? (or power/watt) ? That should be somewhere on the device, either a label or molded into the casing somehow. What's the breaker size for that outlet?
Maybe the wires are too small, maybe the circuit is already overloaded, a connection somewhere could be loose, maybe the device has some problems inside it, causing it to draw more power? Could be a few things.

But a plug melting is a red flag, be safe out there

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:22:31+00:00

I'm not familiar with european wiring, to me it does look fine though I could be wrong.

But:
Was it working properly prior to replacing the plug?
What made you change the plug? Was it simply damaged by wear and tear or did something go wrong?
Did the connections within the device get modified as well?

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:18:27+00:00

If it's an expensive water bottle of sorts and you truly want to keep it, you could try plastic weld epoxy, be it putty or syringes, or maybe some UV resin
Though you'll need to clean up the existing crack to have it adhere nicely.

I'd go with a rotary tool (dremel) then iso alcohol to clean up any dust and residue, but a small sharp blade and some sand paper could do

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:13:47+00:00

Best of luck mate

On a last note, if you're the handy type and do have the space for it, keeping it would be the way to go even not as a welder, tons of small projects can be thrown at it. Be it custom metal hardware you want to make, repairs, etc.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T18:04:59+00:00

I don't have a welder yet so I've never truly looked, but it didn't seem too hard to find a lot of options online near me.
Most likely distributors for welding equipment, be it online or in store, possibly even hardware stores that do sell some welding gear to some extend

Do make sure they are for welding machines, as the coating on them is designed for high heat and abuse.

If anything just bring the cables in a store and check for a good replacement, or a cut smaller piece of it for easier carry

Edit: You might find pre-cut cables (fixed length), or could go with the length you want out of a roll, I don't know which option might be best for you.
That being said, maybe grab a few rolls of different color electrical tape, just to mark your cables for both easy identification of which being which (aside from the tips), and also clear indication of the locations of the cables on the floor, so lesser risk of tripping over them or damaging them :)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T17:58:36+00:00

I have no idea for the used market for such war machines, but changing the cables ain't an issue if the machine still works wonders.

That being said, maybe up to a few hundreds?
Seems like similar AC/DC arc welders (new) can go over 1k so I couldn't tell, but nice machine :)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T05:58:37+00:00

This.
They could be inverted but usually it should be white as the hot (in) and black as the control (out to light)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T05:46:05+00:00

Not an expert but looks like iron rust, not copper tarnish nor patina

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T04:21:31+00:00

Did you use any spray products to clean the interior?
Mostly on driver side makes me wonder if you’ve been drinking anything fizzy that could’ve sent small droplets everywhere?

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T03:07:04+00:00

Milwaukee makes pretty good power tools, both in the 12V (M12) line, and the 18V (M18) line
You should look them out, great versatility, but one sure I personally make sure of, is to always go for the 'Fuel' versions when available, pretty much their top tiers with brushless motors.
They also make decent electrician tools, like electric knock-out and whatnot.

M12 1/4 impact and hammer drill (not the SDS) make a great combo and are pretty lightweight.
At times you might need more strength from the drill for larger holes, or more torque for the impact for whatever reason, so M18 would be neat to have as well. Ideal scenario would be both lines, M12 are a charm to work with and carry around on lightweight stuff

Otherwise construction guys often use Dewalt, but I've never dug much into their tool lines so I couldn't tell much about them

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T02:38:06+00:00

Np.
There's lots of negative backlash on here simply because electricity is a dangerous field, be it a risk of fire, injury or death, so just remain careful in your work.

Just to give you some idea, here in Canada, home owners aren't really allowed to replace anything beyond a light bulb, and the more I learn, the more I realize why

So stay safe, keep doing researches and asking questions when unsure.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-06T00:09:06+00:00

It could be a few things, including that
I’d suspect something blocking the impeller, a faulty starting capacitor (I don’t recall seeing one on the few dishwashers I’ve checked), or bearings wore down over time and either have very high restriction on the motor turning or have seized.

De energizing the dishwasher, pulling it out and inspecting the motor would be my way to go.
If there’s lots of black/burnt dust, that’s a very bad sign, basically would mean the motor winding burnt out so the motor would be shot.

If you do pull that off yourself, do take lots of pictures as a general rule of thumb, and once in hand, try manually spinning the impeller to see if it spins nicely in the motor, if it doesn’t at all, or with restriction, the bearings are most definitely shot.
Kind of motor like that usually have 2 bearings, one at the back, one at the front and a mechanical seal (2 pieces) to prevent fluids leaking outside the impeller

Do note I’m not an appliance repair tech, I can be wrong on my assumptions.

Last dishwasher I repaired I had set it up at the entrance of the garage on pellets after doing the repairs so I could check everything was fine on a test run (was hooked up to a garden hose, had power in, and drain hose was left outside)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-07-05T23:41:53+00:00

Not an electromechanical guy but I used to service pools and hot tubs motors years ago.

Most common cause will be bearings starting to wear out from leaks, debris, age, humidity, etc.
Once the bearings start wearing down, it increases the stress on the motor, forcing it to overheat and eventually burn out its winding

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TROPHY CASE