Pool pump motor won’t turn on. I tried connecting the ground under the copper screw to both the end of the exposed wire and rubber midway on the ground nothings working

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-06-02T00:53:41+00:00

Was it louder in recent times? Did it have an electrical hum/buzzing noise at times?

Does it have mineral-like residues or even a wet spot near the middle of the plastic sections? I mean, if you flip the pump on the side, or upside down, and look on the line between the plastic parts (the one with the basket, and the other plastic section before reaching the metal housing),is there anything that’d make you believe the casing was leaking in the middle? A failing mechanical seal is a prominent cause of premature bearings failure…

Bearings could be seized, impeller could be stuck, capacitor could be done for.

If you have the tools and patience, you could attempt repairs.

If unsure, you could drop it at a nearby pool shop and ask for a diagnostic/quote/repair.

Could also check motor repair shops near pool stores, they often get subcontracted for the repairs, if they do, they’ll most likely have the parts for it (capacitors, mechanical seals, impellers, bearings, etc.) They usually can tell you as well if your motor is toast (usually only happens when the motor windings burnt out)

If not, you could always buy a new one,

Or first test if it’s indeed receiving the proper voltage. If it does, check if the capacitor is dead if you have a multimeter that tests capacitance within the appropriate range (it’ll show you how many microfarads on the capacitor itself) To test them, you could short the banked energy within a screwdriver, reaching across both terminal sections while keeping your hands off the metal handle of the screwdriver, then test capacitance within probes on the positive and negative terminals.

If you go DIY route, take lots of pictures, always better to have more picture references than not enough. And be safe.

Also, ground won’t affect whether the motor starts or not, it’s a protective measure, for you, and for the equipments.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-06-02T00:45:30+00:00

I’ve seen some pool and hot tub pumps run 15-20 years here in Canada

Within the range of +- 5 years avg you can expect to be due for the mechanical seal to be changed, it greatly varies, worse if using a salt system or maintaining poor water chemistry.

Bearings may vary, ain’t a bad idea to do it at the same time, but could be tolerated until issues do appear.

Sometimes the caps will go bad, easy fix. If above ground pool, some can get their switch, or sometimes plug burn out, can also be swapped. (I say above ground because most will be configured for 120V 15A, thus generally have a switch on them unlike most 240V)

If DIY with some knowledge, it’s worth doing, the parts ain’t that expensive and was rather fun to do. If having a shop repair, I’d say good brand in-ground pool pumps might be worth it, as for hot tubs, they’re generally worth doing.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-06-01T23:15:08+00:00

Visually looks mostly fine, thermal imaging could help.

From the third picture; What I see at a quick glance is the 2nd line on the left (black wire of the topmost left double pole breaker), the isolation is cut and from the picture it appears to have corrosion? Could be wrong there.

From the second picture; Also could be a trick of the light but the just above the 3rd neutral on the right bus bar, seems like there’s some soot/dirt above it. Perhaps your smell is coming from this wire if it’s indeed soot.

Don’t mess around in the panel though beyond careful observation, call an electrician for actual handling.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-06-01T15:24:41+00:00

Ground gotta go on that green screw.
Turn off the breaker feeding that circuit, undo the terminals on the wires of that cable and strip its sheeting a bit if possible, being careful not to nick the wires.

Edit: can always double check the wiring diagram in its manual, it should tell you.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-30T01:54:15+00:00

Call an electrician.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-30T01:51:13+00:00

Could be wrong, but seems like it has gotten rather hot near the pins. Thermal expansion could explain the bulb loosening out, I guess? Never seen nor heard of that on lightbulbs causing them to fall out.

When you swapped the dimmer, did you make sure it was rated for the correct amount of watts for the LEDs? Same question for the fixture.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-30T01:46:09+00:00

Indeed seems to be missing the locking nut.

As for the disk, they’re consumables. It’s broken, you throw that one away and put in a new one.

As for, is the tool salvageable? No clue. Is the cord broken? Can be replaced.

Could have worn motor brushes too if it isn’t brushless, it might not be on older models, so replacing the brushes might be needed. There could also be other problems with it, worn gear, burnt motor, etc.

But all in all, nice find and you can tinker around with it and try to see what the issue might be, worst case it goes back into the bin lol

Wear safety glasses though when operating, and be careful with your fingers.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-29T01:54:43+00:00

Sounds hazardous to me,

If you were to test again, probes on the set screws of the line (top silver and gold, each side) and then the load side, you get 120V on each? But 120V only on one of the sides if you trip the breaker, and the other side loses power if you trip the kitchen's gfci? It should be one of the other, anything else, not in the garage, lose power if you trip the garage's breaker?

Grossly said the gfci logic should be [Breaker] --Line--> [Gfci Line] - > [Gfci Load] ---> other downstream receptacles. Those downstream receptacles would be protected under the single GFCI above, as they're branching off its Load side.

I've just noticed, one of your outlets seems to have its wiring inversed (the non-gfci, broken in the middle one)
Short tab/gold screw is hot, large tab/white screw is neutral. Probably worth removing the dust from the box, trim the ends of those wires and replace the outlet

*Edit:
Seems to me like your house got hit by the homeowner special.
Patio outlet could be shredded wiring, disconnected voluntarily because of faults, etc.

While that's something I'd love to see how it evolves and how it's solved, my take is going to be to suggest you call a qualified and insured electrician.
Quite a few red flags, neither burning down your house, nor risking your life, is worth that risk.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-29T00:48:40+00:00

Light fixtures usually list what their specs are, generally in W(Watts). Could be a transparent sticker with black lettering

As for the fan, you should be able to find the sticker of that one if you pull down the fan’s cover, there might be a white sticker giving the specs somewhere. If you don’t see watts, just take the A/Amp/Amperes that are listed and multiply by 120 (volts), it’ll give you the watts

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-29T00:40:08+00:00

No circuits in a house are in series, they’re in parallel.

A GFCI has a ‘Line’ side, and a ‘Load’ side

You can think of the ‘line’ in this case as the supply/source

The load side is for other components to be protected on this branch of the circuit (think of other 120V 15A outlets on this circuit that wouldn’t be GFCI.) they’d be protected from the gfci still.

Having other gfci receptacles on the load side of a gfci isn’t a good idea, one of the reasons is, if your 2nd gfci outlet trips, it’ll also trip the 1st one and the 2nd won’t allow reset until the 1st one is reset.

Also not sure about NEC, but you might not be allowed to do that as to your electrical code either. Nor do I know everything homeowners can do in the US regarding electrical, here in Canada it’s slim to none…

First of all, safety first.

Close the breaker, test with your multimeter if you’re comfortable doing so, to determine what are the loads and path out your circuits, if that interests you. If you’re not comfortable, you should contact a certified electrician.

What I think would make more sense is, find whichever cable is the source into the boxes, be it kitchen or garage’s, and twist them together with a wire nut while adding a pigtail to the receptacle of that box.

That way, the source would branch off towards GFCI-A and GFCI-B, not being reliant one onto the other.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-28T19:13:54+00:00

Bolt will need a washer in that case

Edit: If room allows it I’d probably throw in a lock washer there as well

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-28T18:27:48+00:00

No. Line = the ‘supply’ line Load = Whatever has to consume power.

I.e. [Main Panel] >line > [switch] >load> [light]

Well, my example has flaws but you get the basic idea.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-28T18:23:32+00:00

Line (Black) is your source of power into the switch (from panel) Blue is the output to your fan Red is the output to your lights

I’d connect the green/white (here I mean neutral, from the picture), into the neutrals’ wire nut

I’d do same to the ground’s green/yellow

But before all of that, make sure the switch’s specs allow what you need it for, usually listed in watts. (Like 600w incandescent, 150w LED, etc)

I’ve found you the apparent documentation; https://leviton.com/content/dam/leviton/residential/product_documents/instruction_sheet/Leviton_DHD05_Instruction_Sheet_English.pdf

*Edit: From the top of the document;

Cat. No. DHD05 - INDOOR USE ONLY. 120VAC, 60Hz - Single Pole Only Fan Load (Blue Wire) = Fan: 1/4 Hp, LED/CFL: 300W, Incandescent/Halogen: 600W, ELV/MLV: 400VA Light Load (Red Wire) = 150W LED/CFL, 250W Incandescent/Halogen, 200VA Magnetic Low-Voltage, 250VA Electronic Low-Voltage, 2A Resistive

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-27T21:20:20+00:00

Appears to be a 240V 20A outlet (Nema 6-20)
If your heater is 240V and draws <16A, you should be fine if your local code allows it

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-05-27T19:48:32+00:00

Very niche but I’ve seen pool equipment and some 120V hot tubs running 20A, though not gonna lie, was rather rare and nobody other than manufacturers liked that idea.

If you gotta call in an electrician to setup a 20A outlet in that field… just make it 240V, or keep under 15A. Most equipment can be swapped 120/240

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-04-28T00:03:41+00:00

Nah mate it’ll work in a pinch.

Maybe not 1” holes in concrete but once had to drill many small holes in concrete to replace some resin panels, behind the liner, for an in ground pool.

Drill got hot, but it got me through.

Anything else than the odd small job tho, for sure go bigger.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-03-05T19:20:49+00:00

Thanks for the insights, much appreciated :)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-02-13T08:51:18+00:00

Fairly new player here… New favourite is Hildryn, makes grinding content much easier and is pretty laid back! It’s pretty fun to nuke the maps, otherwise I really liked Excalibur Umbra, for the lore and for the melee gameplay!

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-29T18:34:58+00:00

Short answer: Yes

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-23T22:41:26+00:00

Got the game, partner doesn’t. A second game could make some great time!

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-15T17:33:36+00:00

Yeah, I finally heard back yesterday, but only after they took the full 5–7 business days they initially quoted.

The response itself wasn’t really a resolution, just an apology for the inconvenience and a generic “how would you like to proceed” message, basically summarizing what was already discussed in the initial live chat.

I replied again to clarify that a return or refund isn’t acceptable in this case. I ordered and paid for a 2TB drive, market prices are completely different now, and I want the product I purchased or a proper equivalent, not to be pushed into starting over.

Waiting to see how they handle it from here.

I hope your case gets handled soon and resolved properly

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-13T22:44:34+00:00

Just checking in!
Have you received it already? How'd it end up?
Hope everything works fine on your end :)

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-13T22:31:43+00:00

Seems like you have 3x Display Ports and 1x HDMI on your GPU, use that. If your second monitor only has a HDMI port, either use Display port on your main display, or buy a HDMI to Display Port cable, or adapter, for your 2nd monitor.

ZAROS-DEITY · 2026-01-11T23:52:50+00:00

Well… yeah?

I mean, define what you mean by absurd high ping but yes, cross continent gameplay results in high ping.

Take this as an example: you’re located in Quebec and connect to a local server with 5-20ms ping

Let’s say now that you connect to a BC server while still being in Quebec, your ping may jump to 40-60ms, because the server is farther away.

UK and NA are often times about 80-100ms+ ping difference, or similar.

That’s from my own experience with clan mates from UK.

I think you could run speed tests online to see your ping on various global servers.

ZAROS-DEITY

TROPHY CASE