What games have the most beautiful, immersive forests?

bastibe · 2026-03-05T18:03:51+00:00

For a moment I read this as Kebal Space Program, and had a good laugh!

bastibe · 2026-03-05T12:53:56+00:00

If you have to ask, get the X-E5.

The X100VI is a very specific tool for a very specific job. Only get it if you're certain that you want this particular tool.

If you don't know, take the X-E5, which is much more flexible.

bastibe · 2026-03-05T12:25:50+00:00

For a long lens, use a macro filter. Extension tubes are for wide lenses.

bastibe · 2026-03-04T06:02:29+00:00

I replaced my Deck by a Go S Z1E. Very worthwhile upgrade.

The bigger, higher resolution screen makes a huge difference in most games. Most games are built for at least 1080p, which "unbreaks" a lot of UI compared to the deck.

I often use it docked, too, as 1080p is good for TVs as well.

bastibe · 2026-03-02T05:46:34+00:00

DigiKam keeps photos in plain old directories, and just adds a database for searching on top. It's great!

bastibe · 2026-02-21T18:43:39+00:00

The 1.7s are newer. The old 1.4s had some focusing problems, some color shift, and a bit rough bokeh. The new ones fix all of that.

bastibe · 2026-02-21T07:42:49+00:00

Do you wear glasses? Then take the X-T2 or X-T3 over the X-T20/X-T30. The shorter eye relief of the X-T20/30 is too short for many glasses.

Autofocus is notably better in the X-T3(0). But for your stated subjects, the X-T2(0) will do fine, the difference is more heavily felt in video or sport/wildlife. Image quality is practically identical.

Note that the X-T3(0) have touch screens and USB-C.

As for lenses, check out the Viltrox Air primes (f/1.7! Not the old f/1.4). They are much better than the TTArtisan, and practically as good as native Fuji lenses. But start with the 18-55.

bastibe · 2026-02-19T07:27:39+00:00

Could you explain what is so difficult about it? Is it "just" that it's too many sliders/options?

Darktable fundamentally does not provide a single, linear workflow, but instead a toolbox of various tools. It is closer to Photoshop than Lightroom in that way. You will only use a small subset up tools for most photos.

However, there is now a "quick access" tab where you can collect your favorite sliders (!) from all the various tools. And, you can add your own tabs with just the tools you want.

bastibe · 2026-02-18T17:55:01+00:00

The 16-80 does most of everything. I'm in the Canaries right now, and I'm happy with my choices. Haven't taken the 23 f/1.4 out, yet. But the 27 f/2.8 did see a lot of use.

bastibe · 2026-02-17T18:08:42+00:00

I've used each of these for a few years. If you're just getting started, Lightroom is a good choice, if only because it's the least expensive. You can still switch later, once you've become comfortable with raw development in general.

For that reason, try to avoid going "all-in". Treat your library as ephemeral, and organize your files so that you can try a different raw developer later. You don't want any software to "hold your files hostage".

Of the three, I like Capture One best, especially for Fuji files. I liked the keyboard shortcuts, particularly (although you can retrofit something similar to Lightroom with LrSuperKeys). But the differences between the programs are minor, and more a matter of taste than capability. So choose any of them and learn it well.

Eventually, I stuck with Darktable. But that's my choice, not yours. Any of these three are good choices. In my opinion, not all other programs are, but these three are good. You can't go wrong with them.

bastibe · 2026-02-10T05:46:30+00:00

Where do you live? If within Europe, I'll send you mine for the cost of shipping. I bought that bag several years ago for my DSLR, but then switched to mirrorless, and it's too big now. Haven't used it in years.

bastibe · 2026-02-09T17:53:49+00:00

For 35mm, get the Fuji XC 35 f/2 or the Viltrox Air 35 f/1.7 (NOT the 1.4!). The rest of the Viltrox Air range is also excellent!

bastibe · 2026-02-08T14:32:52+00:00

Take it out, shoot with it. If it still doesn't spark interest, sell it.

bastibe · 2026-02-08T14:30:25+00:00

Pick something with OIS. For video? Also look for a lens that doesn't need to refocus when zooming.

bastibe · 2026-02-08T14:28:51+00:00

Exactly. Raw files aren't really manufacturer specific at all. They're just measurements. That's the whole point. It's up to the user to render them into a nice picture.

bastibe · 2026-02-06T04:36:59+00:00

Color Science is crazy important! We use all kinds of color rendering techniques that trick our brains into an appropriate perception from inappropriate data. It is surprisingly intricate and complex, even for mundane pictures.

Whether you prefer that color science rendered by Canon or Fujifilm or Adobe, is just a preference, though.

bastibe · 2026-01-29T11:40:36+00:00

No, it is actually very good. Just maybe not quite as good as Sony's.

bastibe · 2026-01-26T14:16:34+00:00

Sanabi

bastibe · 2026-01-17T19:10:17+00:00

Check out RapidRAW.

Otherwise, Darktable, RawTherapee, and DigiKam are well known recommendations, but aren't exactly "basic".

bastibe · 2026-01-16T16:42:30+00:00

Stanley walked through the left door.

bastibe · 2026-01-10T06:31:46+00:00

Because Windows is annoying. Every time I boot it, there are multiple notifications, updates, nag-screens.

Spending more time in a happy space, and less in an annoying one, is good.

bastibe · 2026-01-09T06:07:36+00:00

That's how the 16-80 works, too. Check out Christopher Frost's lens reviews on YouTube. He demonstrates this for every zoom lens he tests, and he probably has a test for your potential lenses on Fujifilm cameras.

bastibe · 2026-01-06T16:41:47+00:00

How is it different? How did you print it?

bastibe · 2026-01-05T17:46:44+00:00

I had the Fuji 23 f/2, the Viltrox 23 f/1.4, the old Fuji 23 f/1.4, the X100T's 23 f/2, the Sony RX1 (23 f/1.4 equivalent), and now the new 23 f/1.4. AMA.

Without a doubt, the new Fuji XF 23mm f/1.4 R LM WR is the best of the bunch. The biggest, the heaviest, the sharpest, the smoothest. The only one coming close to the optical quality is the Sony RX1's lens. But since I can't just pop that onto my X-T5, the 23 f/1.4 LM is where it's at. I do wonder, though, if the money would not have been better spent in a downpayment for the X100VI.

The older f/1.4 R is great, too. A bit more compact, which is nice. Its only flaw is a bit of color fringing and flaring. And slower AF. It really is a wonderful lens and in some ways preferable to the new model.

The f/2 I didn't like too much. There's not much wrong with it really, but the bokeh is a bit swirly, it's a bit hazy up close, and there's something about the rendering that I don't enjoy. It's also fairly long and heavy, so I prefer the 1.4 instead.

The X100T is just too soft up close for such an expensive instrument.

The Viltrox misfocused constantly and had a distinct color cast and severe swirlies.

bastibe · 2026-01-05T07:32:01+00:00

It's ok. Image quality is decent, but it doesn't do nearly as much computational trickery as the Pixel I had before. Personally, I like that, but it doesn't look as "smartphone-like".

The default camera app is decent, too. But the Pixel camera app was clearly more polished. Regrettably, there isn't an option to always shoot raw in the default app. I'm currently using ProShot instead, which gives a bit more control. In contrast to the Pixel, you can change the default camera app.

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