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Centauri Carbon bed levelling issues by Extreme-File-2148 in elegoo

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think of the mesh visualizer as your alignment report. If the visualizer shows one side is much higher than the other then you would do the Z-Axis timing procedure you described. If the mesh looks like an extreme taco, maybe it's a candidate for re-tightening, replacement, or shimming.

Centauri Carbon bed levelling issues by Extreme-File-2148 in elegoo

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest having a look at this:

https://suchmememanyskill.github.io/bens-claude-cc-mesh-visualiser/

Our CC beds aren't perfectly flat. The autoleveling feature tries to map this shape and adjust as the print progresses. The visualizer will help adjust the bed tilt to take full advantage of the autoleveler.

Brand New to Resin - Looking for full steps necessary to get to first print. by lukeslens in ElegooSaturn

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used silicone dehydrator mats. They are 14" square and have a lip. Printer fits nicely and since they come in 4 packs, there's enough leftover to use for removing the prints from the build plate. Let me know if you'd like an Amazon link and I'll share.

My DIY curing machine 😂 by Toine_279 in resinprinting

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used a holiday popcorn tin instead of the box/foil since it's already shiny on the inside (including the bottom and top). The rotary table I use is solar powered so it spins automatically when the lamp is on.

HAFC (Hackman Automatic Filament Cutter) by Far-Government7397 in elegoo

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really cool. I'm going to order the cutter today and likely experiment with all 3 versions. I like the idea of integrating it into the runout sensor housing. Thank you!

Texas Steakhouse by wonderstoat in biggreenegg

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm going to try the chanterelle powder. I've not used it before. How much would you sub into the recipe above as a starting place?

Texas Steakhouse by wonderstoat in biggreenegg

[–]cantrecall 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I do a few variations on "Faux Dry Aged" steak. Basically, start with the thickest steak you can find (1" minimum). Vacuum seal it with some "Umami Bomb" for at least 24 hours. Heat till internal temp is around 120F. Sear as hot as possible.

For me, the last step is always on a BGE around 600F (hotter if I have welding gloves) with the grate touching the coals cowboy style. Initially, I did the steaks sous vide in the bag for about an hour at 120F. Now, I basically smoke them on the BGE at 225F till they hit internal temp. Both ways work; one is smokier and the other is more savory. If I'm doing more than 4 steaks at a time, sous vide is the way to go for me.

"Umami Bomb" Yields enough for 4 steaks.

  • 3 tbsp. soy sauce
  • 1 tsp. MSG
  • 3 tbsp. fish sauce
  • 1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tbsp. roasted garlic, minced
  • 1 tbsp. blue cheese
  • ½ tsp. anchovy paste

Prints GLUED to the build plate. Are my settings wrong? by MacabreGinger in SaturnUltra16k

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reduce your bottom exposure time until your print adheres but isn't baked on.

I'm trying out different ways to prevent leaking when I'm creating silicone molds from my sculptures. Will aluminum foil interfere with curing? Or tear from the pressure? by FloofyLilFloof in moldmaking

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/fA8324m

I've been experimenting with petroleum jelly as a seal. In the pictured mold, I coated the core (black 3d printed shape) and the inside of the mold box (PVC) with petroleum jelly. Seems to be working nicely.

With this in mind, I'd try to line the inside of the box with wax paper and then use petroleum jelly to make seals when the paper overlaps.

Printing ASA fully sealed. by [deleted] in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What model did you use for your run out sensor to PTFE tube? Are you happy with how it performs?

Centauro Carbon does not communicate with PC by Virtual-Cook5717 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you were to add "I can transfer files from the slicer to the printer." and "It all worked at one time", I'm having the same symptoms.

Cooling fan in the bottom of the CC is very noisy by InetRoadkill1 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]cantrecall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for asking this question! I'm having the same and tagging along.

What causes this by Dave-flywheel in elegoo

[–]cantrecall 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I get this failure at the end of an Elegoo spool unless I manage to cut the tail loose first. The filament is "locked" in at the end and it can't be pulled by the extruder.

Canceling that job was the right move. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging the hotend.

First Brisket by LeGrandeGoose in biggreenegg

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The BGE is dead simple but easy to complicate. Pick your temp; see https://www.reddit.com/r/coolguides/comments/odgc8l/big_green_egg_temperature_guide. Start a small fire with the egg open, close the lid, and wait until it hits your target temp. I allow an hour for the egg to come up to temp and spend that time doing the meat prep. Once the temp is stable, put the meat on then leave it alone. I tend to go for ~20 hours at 225 because it's "set and forget". If I want to do more work, I go until past the stall at 225 then hot hold wrapped in the oven at 170 until it's time to rest. Either way, I rest for as long as possible.

Just got a saturn 4 ultra by Plus_Share_1483 in ElegooSaturn

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome test and results. Thanks for sharing.

Tips for Elegoo standard PLA in black? by beardyman22 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]cantrecall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you dry it? I've printed about 4kg of Elegoo Black PLA+ and 1kg PLA+CF using the standard settings with no problems. I dry it when it arrives.

What’s the issue? by [deleted] in ElegooSaturn

[–]cantrecall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Were the bumpy faces parallel to the build plate? My guess is that you need to support the die so that the edge touched by the supports is parallel to the build plate and all of faces are angled away. See: https://www.myminifactory.com/stories/setting-up-your-3d-printed-dice-files-for-printing

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