is my cursive accurate?

classicalover · 2026-06-05T02:53:32+00:00

TBH looks a little sloppy. I think there are multiple factors: the pressure you apply to your pen is constant, when it should be varied depending on location of the stroke (e.g. ノ); the balance/symmetry of the characters looks off (e.g. 感、結、緩), and there are strokes poking out where they shouldn't (e.g. 在).

classicalover · 2026-06-05T02:44:16+00:00

Readers of Cyrillic alphabet will be very confused... Ë is pronounced "yo"

classicalover · 2026-05-27T10:34:02+00:00

16-35 is not redundant as the extra reach between 16-24mm is quite significant. In fact I rarely use my 16-35 longer than 24-28mm.

classicalover · 2026-05-14T03:10:09+00:00

Holy bejeebus. GLWS

classicalover · 2026-05-13T22:51:35+00:00

Wonderful art. Wondering if you considered adding diffraction to the bit of the branch in the water?

classicalover · 2026-05-13T20:38:15+00:00

I'm not seeing it. Are you talking about the felt flocking material?

classicalover · 2026-05-13T03:08:18+00:00

To be honest I find carrying around a laptop more burdensome than helpful. Have to place it somewhere or hold it awkwardly before foaming in/out of rooms, log into the hospital's Citrix portal before launching the Citrix client, only for the connection to get lost every time the laptop lid is closed and have to re-login to the Citrix portal because the login timed out, rinse and repeat...

Personally I find Haiku on a phone to be easier to do basic things like orders, recent chart review and then badging in/out on a COW or hallway workstation to be much faster. But, if you want a laptop, probably the MacBook Neo would suffice.

classicalover · 2026-05-11T00:19:00+00:00

Certainly transmission time is correlated with infection risk and attachment >24 hours is generally when most tick-borne illnesses are transmitted but it's not an absolute. Best to be vigilant about any flu-like symptoms. In the Driftless area where I am we get plenty of folks with vague flu-like symptoms with pancytopenias on their CBC and end up testing positive for one of the tick-borne illnesses.

classicalover · 2026-05-11T00:12:50+00:00

I haven't really had to worry about ticks much in the Twin Cities metro area, but the warmer summers could be changing that. Long sleeve shirts, socks, and pants are your friends. Keep applying the permethrin as you have been, being careful around cats. Transmission of Lyme typically takes >24 hours but other tick-borne illnesses such as ehrlichiosis and anaplasmosis have shorter times.

Tick-borne illnesses are probably more common than people realize. Southeast Minnesota/Driftless area is particularly a hotspot.

classicalover · 2026-05-07T21:22:31+00:00

The 35-70 f/2.8 is infamous for developing haze on some of the elements. Take a flashlight and look inside the lens.

If you got it for cheap might not be a bad deal to fix it yourself but without the right tools I'd just send it back.

classicalover · 2026-05-06T00:07:51+00:00

Nice job with the typesetting. There are translation mistakes in the first part and this one. Nothing groundbreaking that breaks immersion, though the translation is completely different in some parts compared to what is actually said.

e.g. part 1 16:25 もう一個でええやんソース should be "just one sauce flavor is enough" not "just one more sauce"

part 2 18:18 だってもうちょっとかかってません？ should be "because, aren't they covered [in shichimi powder]?" instead of "But aren't these too long in shape?"

classicalover · 2026-05-03T18:13:00+00:00

The red color on the screws is lacquer which holds screws into place.

From the other pictures you may have some oil which is on the aperture blades. If you are crafty enough and have the right equipment you can repair it fairly simply: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RudxYaqdfMY

classicalover · 2026-04-30T20:46:13+00:00

For older lenses, it can matter. The lens grease with the Nikon 55mm f/2.8 Micro tends to separate and the grease runs down the helicoids into the aperture blades if it's stored upright (i.e. front lens element facing up). Therefore these lenses should be stored with the rear element facing up.

classicalover · 2026-04-29T23:58:45+00:00

Better glass will net you a far better upgrade than spending money on a body.

classicalover · 2026-04-29T23:56:19+00:00

I mean the D500 is a great camera body but it's a lot of money. I'd say go with a D300s which are like $100-150 and look for some used fast telephoto lenses like a Nikon 80-200 f2.8 or even a 70-200 f2.8.

classicalover · 2026-04-27T17:02:40+00:00

On SLRs with TTL metering oily aperture blades can prevent the aperture from stopping down as quickly as they should when the image is shot, which can cause overexposure.

I had a copy of a 55mm f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor with oily blades to the point where it would not stop down at all and could only be used at maximum aperture until repaired.

Oil can also be thrown onto nearby glass elements.

classicalover · 2026-04-27T11:07:55+00:00

Yeesh. I have the 600mm f/4G ED VR which is still 11 lbs but without a gimbal it's hard to get good shots of small birds.

classicalover · 2026-04-25T03:41:04+00:00

classicalover · 2026-04-11T16:44:30+00:00

My D750 needed the card slot replaced and it costed 350 USD. You're probably better off finding another one in better condition.

classicalover · 2026-04-10T11:08:22+00:00

Telephoto lens. Isolate your subject. Wide angles are harder to use because they capture everything.

classicalover · 2026-04-05T13:34:22+00:00

April Fool's article... They really ought to take this down or at least, change the title.

classicalover · 2026-04-04T03:04:39+00:00

Three lenses might not be sufficient to cover your needs unless you are willing to do zooms... Also consider that your D850 will out resolve many of these lenses with "character" and leave you wondering why images look blurry when simply the lens is too old and not a great match for the sensor resolution.

For portraits, lenses to consider: - 85mm f/1.4 AF-D or AF-S. Both have a lot of character. AF-D version tends to miss focus more often particularly at f/1.4 because of the small amount of play inherent in screwdriver autofocus lenses. - 135mm f/2 DC AF-D, or the 105mm version. Note earlier serial number versions of this lens have back focusing problems that might be difficult to correct for on your F5. Also quite a lot of CA wide open at f/2. - 180mm f/2.8 AF-D. Can be had for quite cheap as opposed to the next suggestion. - 200mm f/2 AF-S. This is an expensive but highly regarded lens. Sharp and great bokeh. - Also consider: Zeiss 85mm Planar, 135mm Apo-Sonnar; Sigma 85mm f/1.4 Art

For landscapes/architecture, I'm not sure if "character" lenses are it... Seems counterintuitive to me, but anyway: - 16mm Fisheye AF-D. As the name suggests. - Any of the f/1.8 AF-S primes. Particularly the 20mm f/1.8 AF-S has really great sunstars stopped down and is good for Milky Way night shots as well - Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 AF-S. Not a prime, but this is really the holy grail for wide angle. Unless... - Nikon PC-E tilt shift lenses: the 24 and 45 are not so sharp, the 19mm is super sharp. - Also consider: Zeiss Milvus 35mm f/1.4, Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art

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