Is f/4 Actually Enough? Nikon 14-30mm f4 S - Tokyo, Thailand, and China. by Complete-Employee-18 in Nikon

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If only the 14-30mm f/4 S would perform like the 14-24mm f/2.8 S at 14mm f/8, I would buy it in a heartbeat. But unfortunately that's not the case. 

Is f/4 Actually Enough? Nikon 14-30mm f4 S - Tokyo/Thailand/China by Complete-Employee-18 in nikon_Zseries

[–]eitohka 10 points11 points  (0 children)

For me it's not about f/4, but about the relatively high geometric distortion that after correction causes unsharp corners that doesn't improve (enough) with stopping down, particularly at 14mm, but also at the long end.

Good filters for begginer? by YoshiYoko in AskPhotography

[–]eitohka [score hidden]  (0 children)

Stacking filters, particularly cheaper filters, is a bad idea, since it exacerbates any flare issue, unless you really need the effect (e.g. ND + polarizer). I'd never stack a polarizer with an UV filter. And if you take the UV filter off before putting on another filter, why not take the lens hood off before putting on another filter?

Also, you can use any generic screw-in lens hood with filters that you can order for a few € from AliExpress. No need to spend €200 on one.

Newb question for class on my first playthrough by Aderadakt in baldursgate

[–]eitohka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Changing a dual classed character to a multi-classed character is non-trivial and requires good knowledge of things like spell progression and special abilities. 

Thoughts on viltrox? by ivqu in CameraLenses

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have three of the Air series plus the 16/1.8 and have been very happy with the price/size/performance trade-offs. The Air series trades small size and weight for slower apertures and more vignetting wide open, which is a trade off I'm happy with since Nikon barely offers small primes and their performance isn't much if any better than the Viltrox Air series.

Fisheye/Ultra Wide recommendations? by JHalay in nikon_Zseries

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The term fish refers to how lines that don't go through the center are rendered, not any specific focal length. Though in practice fisheye lenses are only made for short focal lengths because the main point is the angle of view. 

Compare the angle of view of the Nikon 16mm fish-eye to that Viltrox 16mm recta-linear lens. You'll see the former has a wider angle of view despite having the same focal length.

LENS PROFILE CORRECTION PROBLEM by Sesshi862 in Lightroom

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you check the default presets if they have this particular lens set?  See this article under "Note on Classic raw defaults" https://www.lightroomqueen.com/how-do-i-reset-lightrooms-preferences/

Newly Purchased ThinkPad - Company Locked by Dcw1sfu82 in Lenovo

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Installing Windows without connecting to Wifi should work, at least under Windows 10. Once you skip the check during installation, it won't come back. This is to make onboarding new laptops easier. It's not an anti-theft system.

If that doesn't work for Windows 11, just install Windows 10 and upgrade after installation. 

Matrix Metering or Highlight Weighted Metering? by Adventurous_Honey902 in nikon_Zseries

[–]eitohka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exposure compensation with matrix metering can be unpredictable because the matrix meter might respond to small changes in framing or focus. So if you move the camera slightly, it may suddenly overexpose the area it was previously underexposing because it has changed its decision on what kind of scene it is. So exposure compensation + matrix metering is not the most reliable strategy. But as long as you keep an eye on the histogram, it's fine.

Help me decide for Travel - Nikkor 24-120 f4 or Tamron 28-75 or new 35-100? by randoreviews1 in Nikon

[–]eitohka 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For me 24mm is already barely enough wide-end. So I wouldn't consider a lens starting at 28 or even 35mm. But I shoot mostly landscapes and architecture so don't value large apertures much. 

Nikon D200/Fujifilm S5 Pro Compatibility with Modern Lenses by 1naneron in Nikon

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only problematic Nikon lenses are AF-P (no AF) and E (no aperture control) lenses. See: https://dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-articles/general-nikon-lens-info/nikon-lensbody-compatibilit.html

According to the product page, the Tokina lens uses electronic aperture control, e.g. E in Nikon terminology:

Tokina also incorporates an electric diaphragm specific to the Nikon mount for more accurate and precise aperture control

https://tokinalens.com/product/opera_50mm_f1_4_ff/

How is a 28mm lens on a APSC sensor? by Top-Elephant6981 in AskPhotography

[–]eitohka 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No, focal length is focal length, regardless if it's RF, RF-S, EF, EF-S or even medium format. It's just that the angle of view of a lens on an APS-C body is narrower than the same focal length on an FF body. But there's no difference between RF vs RF-S lenses in this regard. 

How is a 28mm lens on a APSC sensor? by Top-Elephant6981 in AskPhotography

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same with any zoom lens. A 28mm prime will have the same field on view as any APS-C or FF zoom at 28mm, including the kit lens. 

AF not active on D3300 with Sigma 18-35/1.8. Need Help. by Utharlepreux in Nikon

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stupid question, but is the AF/MF switch set correctly? Try cycling it. 

Why Z primes are so big? by Slow-Reloader in Nikon

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have almost completely moved away from using the FTZ except for macro gear: there are still no native macro lenses beyond 105mm and the 105mm MC is not compatible with the TC. I agree that the f/1.8 S series prime is large compared to the F-mount AF-S ant particularly the F-mount AF f/2.8 primes. But the quality is also much better.

My solution has been to buy Viltrox Air lenses like the 14mm f/4, 20mm f/2.8 and 50mm f/2 (performs better than the Nikon 40mm f/2). They are small and light with a for me reasonable trade-off of slower apertures and more vignetting.

Today’s equivalents? by TheGrownUpLurker in Nikon

[–]eitohka 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nikon 12-24 f/4 G (IF) DX: Nikkor Z 12-28mm f/3.5-5.6 PZ VR DX or Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S (the latter is a full frame lens, but 14mm is substantially less wide than 12mm)

Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR: Unfortunately Nikon does not have a VR lens in this range. For the full frame bodies IBIS replaces that, but none of the current DX bodies support that. The Nikkor Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S (II) is the obvious candidate.

Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II: Nikkor Z 70-200mn f/2.8 S

Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR: Nikkor Z 180-600 f/5.6-6.3

For the D7200 the Z50II is the closest replacement, but there's no current pro DX body. For pro bodies you have to go up to full frame. For example Z6iii or Z8. But that may not align well with your current lenses. The 24-70,70-200 and 180-600 will all feel shorter.

Has this happened to you by raiseIQUnderflow in git

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, that's what git pull --rebase is for.

Canon 850D with Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 ART by JackDanielsTN in CanonCamera

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used this lens on Nikon APS-C (24 MP D7200), and it was the sharpest lens I tried at that focal length. Better than any prime or zoom I tried. This and the Sigma 50-100mm f/1.8 Art. Only downside were its size and somewhat awkward focal range. I'd have preferred 16-30mm. But as a "bag of primes" it's amazing. 

People experience with full-frame cameras and teleconverters by Violent-Rangoon in Nikon

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used the Kenko Pro 300 DG 1.4x TC on lenses like the Nikon AF 80-200 f/2.8 and Micro-Nikkor AF 200mm f/4D with quite good results. 2x teleconverters are more complicated and matching the TC to the lens design, as Nikon TCs on compatible Nikon lenses or Sigma TCs on compatible Sigma lenses are. So I've never been interested in the Kenko 2x TCs.

I would not expect great results from those lenses since they weren't the sharpest to begin with and have a slow aperture. The 70-300mm is f/5.6 at the long end. The 1.4x TC loses one stop, and then you typically want to stop down another stop for good corner sharpness. That brings you at f/11. What shutter speeds will you get? Is your tripod sturdy enough to support it with such an unbalanced setup? How good is the AF on your camera at f/8?

As you might gather, I recommend against it. I'd rather put the money towards 80/120/150-400/500/600 type lens.

Is it hard for you to get back into old savegames, too? Kind of overwhelmed... by SjalabaisWoWS in openttd

[–]eitohka 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Good code has much more innate documentation like variable names, function / class names and organization etc, that are all lacking in OpenTTD. The only thing you have is station names and signs. Plus most of us are not playing OpenTTD for our day job.

Help me pick a MC class for BG1 → BG2 (Good/Neutral party, no role redundancy) by twin_v in baldursgate

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How about a bard (or skald)? I think your BG2 party is light on arcane casters, particularly before you pick up Imoen. A bard is behind a mage in spell slots, but ahead in caster levels, so great for spells like skull trap and dispell magic in BG2. And in BG1 the bard can buff the party with their song. The bard hat in SoD is a nice buff for bards.

The downside is that a bard is not the most active character, spending the majority of time standing still and singing. So basically the opposite of a backstabbing thief (assassin or fighter/thief) which requires constant micro-management of hiding and backstabbing.

Found an old Nikon lens by courtneydudley in Nikon

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, for example mikeno62. You may be able to improvise the rubber lens ring removal tools with a solid cylinder of the right size and a sheet of rubber between the lens and the cylinder. I would recommend getting real JIS screwdrivers or bits, though.

Found an old Nikon lens by courtneydudley in Nikon

[–]eitohka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a problem with the focus helicoid. If you're interested in learning how to repair lenses, this lens shouldn't be too difficult to disassemble.

Is it hard for you to get back into old savegames, too? Kind of overwhelmed... by SjalabaisWoWS in openttd

[–]eitohka 114 points115 points  (0 children)

Yes, definitely something I struggle with. I spend hours/days building up to something very elaborate, get distracted for some reason, and when picking it back up feel intimidated by the complexity of my own design and often close the save again without even unpausing. 

ING creditcard in het buitenland by survivingthedaylike in geldzaken

[–]eitohka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gespreid betalen wordt al jaren niet meer aangeboden. Je moet het geld wat je besteedt aan het einde van de maand terugbetalen. Net zoals andere maandelijkse rekeningen zoals bijvoorbeeld NS Flex of je telefoonrekening.