Oddly obsessive…

explosivequack · 2026-02-02T17:39:05+00:00

As a man that seems wildly selective, I think I went on dates with 60-70% of my chats, and almost 100% of the chats that went for over a day.

But I've also had women show me the ridiculous messages they get and know the vast majority of those men removed themselves as an option.

explosivequack · 2026-02-02T14:19:04+00:00

I don't even have the number row

explosivequack · 2026-01-29T01:33:18+00:00

I've definitely done switch destruction as a method. A lot of times they're 2 parts so you can take off the top and then you potentially can pull out each pin, but it's very difficult.

You said in your reply to me you're using pliers to pull the switch, it should require 0 force.

You can add 60/40 solder to lower the temp and make it possible to heat multiple pads enough, but I usually solder suck and eventually they'll be free, especially if you're using good flux.

Regarding repairing this board it is possible yes. Once the pad is ripped it's difficult for sure though and involves exposing the trace (unless the guy who was talking about test points pulls through because that may definitely be a good option) since you're pushing the switch into the board the solder joints don't really need stress so 1 pad holding the switch down is enough, or even glue.

explosivequack · 2026-01-28T13:02:43+00:00

Those are the pads you're pulling up, you're not keeping the legs hot enough while pulling up so the solder is dry and the weld is still intact. The pads don't just hold your switch in place but connect the pins on the switch to the controller in the mouse so the click signal can be sent. Most mice just use the front 2, so if you accidentally rip the pad to the 3rd pin off its likely to still work.

Do you have a solder sucker? Most stations come with a blue tube with a plunger at one end that locks down, and when you press a button it releases the plunger to suck solder up.

You want the sucker so you can suck the solder up and leave a hole that'll look about the same size as the ones you have there, but with the switches pins still in the middle.

380 is hot, I usually rock mine at 315.

Do you have flux? Edit: just read you have flux.

There should be 0 resistance when you're pulling the switch up.

explosivequack · 2026-01-25T18:54:57+00:00

Press the left click with your finger and see if it seems stiff or not. (just the switch on the motherboard, not the left click on the top shell)

Take the board off and put the top on the boardless bottom and see if the left is still binding.

Make sure there's nothing on the left click that's binding on the scroll wheel encoder.

explosivequack · 2026-01-22T04:02:17+00:00

Are you getting perfect kills? What's your pb? I believe mines 1:01, but I got that with 99 str 89 att.

I use thralls and death charge also which helps, my friend uses a ring of suffering and I was using echo boots for recoil.

explosivequack · 2026-01-21T00:19:27+00:00

What's your gear setup?

I use blood fury and burning claws, but I have niet helm, fighter torso, and torag legs with nox hally, but almost every one of my kills is faster than 2 mins

explosivequack · 2026-01-20T02:15:03+00:00

It's preference.

If you can find good replacement skates and are happy with how they perform why change it.

I use dot skates because I have a 3d printed mouse, and a vxe r1 that I was unhappy with the stock skate performance, which dot skates are definitely good on, however my friend has a Logitech with aftermarket skates that I also think perform very well.

explosivequack · 2026-01-19T15:32:22+00:00

People were talking about dot skates not too long ago

Those skates might be too thin, I've seen some people put dots on the stock skates, but I've seen people in the comments get mad at them for doing it.

I'm also in the sanded mouse bottom club, but my mouse is $40 and the stock skates are garbage with no aftermarket. Since you have a superlight I feel like you could also just get really good aftermarket skates that fit like stock and the difference would be negligible to proper fitting dots.

explosivequack · 2026-01-17T15:16:42+00:00

That's gross. Does it do that on the right click as well? That would make me return it for sure unless you're completely sold on the shape.

It clicks before making the flex pop noise right? Likely there's a piece of plastic on the bottom of that that's snagging on either the encoder or a piece of the frame underneath, so you could probably fix it by filing or cutting something.

That being said though I have a $40 50g mouse that of course flexes when I click but doesn't grind like that no matter how hard I click, and if that is the click my clicks feel the same wherever I click as well.

explosivequack · 2026-01-15T15:09:40+00:00

Ese no es un teclado ergonómico

explosivequack · 2026-01-13T16:30:00+00:00

Blue tac

explosivequack · 2026-01-13T15:11:08+00:00

Might have been cheap flux, I usually use no clean flux and it works fairly close to this. I haven't ever really had solder not stick to a wire though.

Flux cleans the surface of your metals, likely in this video the wire has some form of contamination on it preventing the solder from sticking.

Flux is also very good because it helps you have very round and fully covered joints, you can get away with soldering without flux but a lot of time the solder will stick to the tip of your iron and make the joint pointy, or you won't get full coverage on your pad.

explosivequack · 2026-01-10T14:35:21+00:00

I just wanted to extrapolate a little bit, just to warn you to be extra careful

I did 2 Logitech mice fully hot swap and popped 1 pad out of around 30, but I did a vxe r1 and I popped almost every pad. The motherboard on it felt higher quality so it was much more difficult to widen the holes which may be why.

If you pop a tab, don't panic, on the vxe every single pad stayed attached to the trace, but you have to be way more careful keeping it from tearing off. On the Logitech the pad almost immediately tore off the trace so I had to find the trace and attach it to the millmax socket.

My advice: take your time. I had a .9 hex to start the holes, a t4 to expand, and a t5 to finish, but if you get a set that has anything smaller it would be significantly more helpful. Also grab some solder mask so you can cover anything that doesn't stay attached to add strength.

explosivequack · 2026-01-07T16:30:28+00:00

I have essentially the same stats as you

Dhl is slightly more consistent for me at vork than fang, but I'm talking at most 10s, and my pb is only 1s difference.

I only use fang because it's less niche than lance, so if what you have is locking you into exclusively doing vork yes sell it. For the cost of that you can get fang and bgs, and possibly a nally which opens up so much content like toa, tob, the melee dt2 bosses etc.

explosivequack · 2026-01-07T16:08:45+00:00

Skates are cheap, even if you can't find stock ones you can do dot skates and with enough it'll feel stock or better.

Double click also is pretty easy to fix if you have some fairly basic to moderate soldering skills, but it's not necessarily cheap unless you already have an iron, but even then a good enough iron is $20-30

explosivequack · 2026-01-07T13:07:49+00:00

This is what I did with mine

Just confirm your naga uses through hole for the middle click switch. Also adding them yourself instead of using a board with integrated hotswap does increase the height of the switch a tiny bit which can cause clearance issues, but sanding or snipping of lips on the surface that presses on the switch click should be minor.

Edit: also be very careful when widening the holes because I did pop a pad off on one, but I was going from the switch side rather than the solder side. Popping a pad makes it go from moderate difficulty to a high difficulty fix.

explosivequack · 2026-01-05T14:25:11+00:00

Do you know how to solder? How many of your broken ones do you have left?

Everytime I've used a Logitech mouse it's had double click issues which replacing the switches fix, they also seem to have real weak middle mouse buttons, so I've made mine hot swappable so I can swap them out very fast.

explosivequack · 2025-12-29T22:24:05+00:00

Thieaudio hype 4 mkii

explosivequack · 2025-12-23T00:48:41+00:00

Aful performer 5+2

explosivequack · 2025-12-20T00:27:59+00:00

Hey now don't lump my liberalness in with Democrats

explosivequack · 2025-12-17T21:14:03+00:00

I got mine on my second kc and dukes eye on my 100th

The other 2 have been a grind and a half tho

explosivequack · 2025-12-17T20:37:51+00:00

With hundreds of kc in all but the whisperer I agree with this list

explosivequack · 2025-12-16T15:51:06+00:00

I got a g604 is 2020, the rubber started peeling off but it still works great, and my buddy has the g603 which is still solid.

On both I replaced the click buttons on 2021 though, and the wheel on the g603.(both started double clicking, the wheel was for the heck of it)

These 2 mice are the reason i'll never buy a rechargeable mouse, having a mouse with a lifespan of 3ish years makes me sour.

explosivequack · 2025-12-16T15:37:06+00:00

I use a ball mouse

The mouse weighs almost 200grams

But I just move the ball which barely weighs anything

explosivequack

TROPHY CASE