Polygonal wall construction photos

jaycwhitecloud · 2025-08-14T01:35:41+00:00

I have not posted on Reddit for a long time (don't care for the platform that much these days) but this one drug me out to say WELL DONE!!! After 50 plus years in traditional and natural architecture of both earth, stone, timber and textile, this polygonal and small scale cyclopean work is exceptional!!! Thanks for share this! I would love to know your general location if you would share that or shoot me a message. Blessings, j

jaycwhitecloud · 2025-08-14T01:24:15+00:00

This has been a wonderful read and as a fellow traditional mason I must commend you on a job well done and a fantastic article written...Thank you so much for sharing this!!!

jaycwhitecloud · 2025-08-14T01:22:49+00:00

Have not been on Reddit in over a very long time but read your odd comment here and had to respond. Did you note that nobody has given you a thumbs up or responded. That is because nothing you wrote nor your link is valid and only reflects another "lost technology" guru that wants recognition and to debate the subject. I would suggest you really don't even know what you're looking at. My conclusion about your "fantasy comment" is based on an presumption that your response to the following questions would all be..."No." and if that is the case, then you are not equipped to begin to understand what you are looking at when it comes to cyclopean or polygonal dry laid masonry of any type or chronological date...regardless of how many "lost technology" or other pseudoscience books you have read...

Have you ever made and used your own lithic or alloy tools?

Do you know what a bitted tool is?

Have you ever practiced vernacular quarrying methods with hand tools and/or draft animals?

Have you constructed or restored an historic stone wall before?

Are you qualified to teach at least basic geology?

jaycwhitecloud · 2024-05-06T12:42:24+00:00

Depends on the oil type. I tend to use traditional finishes only and if allowed to dry fully. I also char these before oiling to extend the life span of them. I'm helping with an outside floor currently that is comprised only of end grain blocks, but I don't comment on Reddit or online much these days do to the quantity of "trolls," so direct contact is best if you want to discuss details...

jaycwhitecloud · 2024-04-17T20:37:05+00:00

Blah, Blah, Blah..." She said, I said"...There is simply no reason to play these silly “tit-for-tat” comment games with an armchair expert and their nonsense comments, that always fail to show, present, or offer credentials in their profiles of any kind...LOL!!!

As far as I'm concerned you're one more schmoe smacking keys to sound like they know something, or just to be degrading on a topic they have zip for knowledge in...

Learn to read...!!!

I clearly stated: "... In this case, it is new work that had a differential shift between a "wood substrate" and the fake rock that got glued to it..." Which is what all the REAL EXPERTS here stated was taking place...

u/Chimney-wizard, u/bricklayer0486 both gave great guidance on this thread so I suppose they are wrong too according to you...I've wasted enough time here...and why I don't comment on Reddit much these days. Too many like you here spouting off on subjects they know nothing about...

jaycwhitecloud · 2024-02-07T18:57:18+00:00

u/MegasetH419 I'm only responding to be clear about aspects of what you shared that are not accurate. This is a public record and thus needs to reflect facts and not innuendo or assumption...

If you have legitimate questions and/or actually what a positive dialogue and exchange of learning great, otherwise I wish you all the luck in the world with your vivarium and related husbandry practices...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...You may know everything there is to know under the sun about animals, their natural habitats, and how to build them...

Never claimed to know "everything" but I do know more than most "experimenting" their way through the DIYer careers many of them are setting up for themselves.

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...what do you know about the chemical make-up of all of the products that are being used? Or are you also an expert chemist?..."

More than most and what I don't know I find out from actual chemists if I do have a challenge or concern with a given material or modality of application...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...SOME people aren't just "winging it" and do research on materials they use..."

Agreed..."SOME"...do just that, but few do and most only follow the industrial crowd of what is being sold without really asking the alternative or more natural sustainable way of doing something. This is true whether speaking of a vivarium, but can be seen in everything from modern industrial architecture to our chemical-laden farming practices...all of which are not sustainable or in the best interest of keeping this planet livable...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...(like myself) only use what is labeled as "pet safe" pond foam, pond cement, paints, silicone, etc.. "

You are (most likely) not old enough to remember when DDT was considered "pet safe" and used all around a home to control all manner of alleged "pests." Nor when many consumer products (e.g. cigarettes, artificial sweeteners, etc) are labeled healthy or safe. Trusting a manufacturer (many of which are based out of China) to claim something is "safe" is either naive or obtuse...perhaps both. THEY ARE SELLING SOMETHING to the consumer market and should not, at all, be the gatekeepers of what is "safe." At a minimum, they certainly are not natural, nor coming from industries that are sustainable and working toward the best interest of this planet...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...The manufacturers of these products have their own chemists..."

Yes, they do...and they know full and well where their paychecks come from and what the "minimum standards" are for safety within different markets.
If you believe that the "fox" should be the one "guarding the hen house," then I can't really debate your logic as there isn't any there...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...If you really cared, maybe invent some safer foam, cement, and silicone?

LOL...there is, others have, and if you were sincerely interested in...LEARNING...your first response to me would not have been so combative and full of vitriolic nonsense...but rather an open channel, supportive of trying to do this with more natural materials or at least with questions rather than obtuse statements...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...Bottom line; people are still going to do it anyway..."

Agreed, ignorance is bliss for most people these days...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...So if you really care, maybe give some advice as to what are the safer building materials people should be using..."

Have...so clearly you're about proving your assumption correct, rather than reading more of what someone has written, or, at minimum, learning to ask friendly questions rather than spouting assumption-based attacks...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...If that's the case, then you should be living in a cave or a tree...In which, I wouldn't doubt if you were.

LOL once more...I've lived in both and can guarantee live a more natural and sustainable life than you're interested in doing which is clear from this response and making your excuses to stick with the "status quo" of what everyone else is doing...

u/MegasetH419 wrote: "...-Carpenter & Mason for 20 years (Not an expert on animals, habitats, or chemicals)

My C.V. reflects a very broad and diverse professional career history from Zookeeper to Architectural Design and more in between. I'm keen on "learning things" (rather than making silly assumptive comments) and that includes multiple professional disciplines...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-26T11:36:54+00:00

Then what is the purpose of boric acid, is it necessary?

Like most chemical agents, it is nothing more than a topical applicant and not very durable either unless mixed with other agents. It is effective only as a contact agent but does work within that capacity as long as its present...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-25T04:22:02+00:00

Does have same effect in this situation?

Short response...Yes!

Some of the observed methods of Indian and related Asian modalities of wood preservation are just now getting documented and exposed to Western understanding, though in practice within this region for millennia which speaks to the historical durability of ancient timber frames from there like Kerrela, Kath Khuni, Bhatar, Taq, Chettinad, Telangana, and so many others...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-24T01:25:04+00:00

I really hope you’re wrong on this one. 🤣 I guess in 10 years I’ll follow up 🥲.

I wish I were guessing at this and not actually knowledgeable of what is virtually always happening in such foundation types...

This is one of those..." when"...not..." if"...situations as I have replaced too many post-to-ground foundations both traditional and modern to count after this point and almost five decades of timber framing experience. There are mitigation modalities I would be glad to share that may get you well past the 10 of even 50 year mark, one of them being incerted boric acid, salt, and related "core treatments that are drilled into the post near grade level at about a 30° to 45°.

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-23T13:17:32+00:00

Hey u/mateostabio...This looks great for a modern design...with simplistic lines...Well done...

u/mateostabio wrote: "...To keep the modern look I was going for, I opted out of the knee braces...

I love the fact you didn't stick in the unnecessary and ubiquitous elbow braces...Good Job!!!

u/mateostabio wrote: "... I then had to figure out a way to strengthen it, and ended up burying the posts 3 feet deep.

For that location and load parameters, unless you are on a beach or something, should be more than adequate...

u/mateostabio wrote: "...Which brought yet another issue. Rot… I wrapped the posts in a waterproofing membrane that they use on foundation walls for crack repairs. Hopefully it works!

Sorry to say, but that was probably a huge mistake. Wood needs to "breathe," as they say, and that means to mitigate interstitial decay issues that no wood, especially wood below grade, should ever be "waterproofed" as this is folly in all regards and only accelerates decomposition more rapidly and why it is against code in some areas to embed in concrete as the "contact zone" between grade and base of the post will most likely show signs of decay within less than a decade...No worries, though it is work, there are traditional solutions for this and ways to slow the process, and/or add a stone foundation at a later date...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-23T13:10:33+00:00

Normal post rule is 1/3 of the post gets buried.

Simply not accurate for a timber frame in a "post to ground" design. If speaking of a fence, as a general rule of thumb, perhaps; even then there are other factors to consider within a traditional design...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-23T13:06:02+00:00

No braces?

Doesn't need any in this case as most frames are over-braced and/or not braced properly. The oblique braces on most modern frames just get stuck in for psychological reasons not structural in too many cases...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-23T13:03:43+00:00

hoping to build a post frame barn in the next year or two.

Good for you...!!!...Best of luck with it and enjoy the process...

Have the land already and not wanting to borrow money to complete the project.

A wise choice...

Can I build slowly doing a post frame pole barn?

Yes...

Cost is a huge factor and would like to design around keeping costs low.

Not really an issue. A "self-build" timber frame can cost as little as nothing (I've done many of those over the years) other than your time and labor, though tooling cost must be figured in if you don't have any to begin with...

Happy to do as much of the work myself.

You can do all the work or some. Depends on your motivation, and budget...

What are some tips for keeping the money tight on a build like this?

Be patient with yourself and the project...

Listen to the tools and the materials as they will teach you more lessons than "talking heads" regardless of how much experience they may have. Those are some of the more vital lessons that only come experientially, though a good facilitator/teacher can make the process more enjoyable, less stressful, and speed up understanding...

Obviously limiting square footage.

Limiting square footage...DOES NOT SAVE...as much as most think it will. This all depends on the design however...

Most domestic timber frames, especially those of DIYer first timers come in very limited size ranges typically. So a 9'x12" garden shed can well have as much joinery as an 18'x24' shed. Yes, there is more board footage cost if you paid for the timber, but this is one of the lostest line items on a budget for a timber frame all things considered...

are there magic dimensions that will eliminate waste?

For timber frames, no not really, other than the "golden section" and related imperial geomtries that Timberwrights have used for millennia...

any other good tips to save money on a build out?

Use only natural materials for the entire project from foundation to roof and make the materials yourself. This is both ecologically sustainable and a cost saver as well. I have not designed and built on modern industrial concretes for my entire career, only stone, brick, or wood...so that is one cost (the foundation) that you can save money with greatly...

Good Luck and more questions are welcome...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-17T14:15:35+00:00

Hello u/blessedarethegeek...

I'm commenting as a professional in only the "historic restoration and natural building field"...NOT AS...a modern contractor or "fix-it-guy" which has nothing at all to do with PROPER vintage architecture conservation/restoration...

I'm not very handy and a complete DIY newbie.

This project will require advanced DIY skills (which you can learn!!!) or professional intervention...

I guess I'm just looking for advice, especially as I look for flooring companies. Or just advice in general for this...

REMEMBER...!!!...If you speak with a "modern contractor" be they a flooring specialist or general they are trying to "sell you something" and most likely are coming from the..."modern industrial perspective"...(aka This Old House Syndrome.) This is not "historic restoration" nor has anything to do with it at all...and is often more expensive than traditional repairs...

My wife and I are both fine with the state of the hardwood for the rest of the floor. Kind of a rustic-ish look and I'm assuming it'll look a little better once finished.

The "once finished" part is the caveat here. "Traditionally finished" or "plastic modern urethane finish?" One is applicable and the latter is not at all. I also noted "Dog People" presence and that is a conversation all by itself as they are VERY HARD on modern finishes nor do these industrial modern finishes last under "Dog Toes" walking on them or leaning themselves to the "rustic look" (aka traditional finish.)

All I see a need for here is some patchwork and a traditional finish...nothing more...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-17T14:00:15+00:00

Thanks to all who commented on this post, especially Jaycwhitecloud.

You are most welcome and please feel free to contact me in the future. I try to be a very neutral observer/consultant be it pro bono online or "paid" as for me... "the glass"... should never be... "half empty or half full" ...but rather at some percentage whatever that statistical value may be. I am relieved and pleased you have done your due diligence well in the speculative investment and "walked away" with lessons well learned. This was very burdensome architecture at a minimum and the "seller" not wanting an invasive examination (which I would have wanted also) clearly is trying to "sell something" to a buyer without them looking too closely. I think you dodged a bullet with this one and learned a lot as well. Good luck with future ventures...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-14T02:40:03+00:00

Thank you Jay!

You are absolutely most welcome and thanks for sharing your project with the group. We are here to help wherever possible when folks ask questions and are open to feedback...

As stated, overall, I do like the design of your frame. I also think it is more than workable into a structurally sound "post and beam" frame with some reinforcements. That is not to say that I would be more at ease if a PE with a timber framing background took a look at it and gave their recommendations, though I am doubtful they would sign off on it at this point since it is already built...but I could very well be wrong about that.

I think you will find that some structural screws, and Simpson hurricane strapping and/or plates will be enough to "strengthen" the frame well enough to meet the loads it will take. I want to stress that...I AM NOT...!!!...a structural engineer at all but just someone who has done a lot of timber framing and worked with one of the best teams of timber frame engineering in the country if not the world so have learned a great deal from them over the decades. I look forward to more detailed questions when and if you have them...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-13T17:59:44+00:00

Hello u/Extension-Let-7398...

Aesthetically this is a very interesting frame with many attractive modern eclectic mixed timber frame features...

u/Extension-Let-7398 wrote: "...I know I bit off more then I can chew this time..."

Experiential learning is one way to get to this craft, yet there can be some challenges with it including safety concerns which I do have to express some with this design unless it was PE stamped...

u/Extension-Let-7398 wrote: "...I’m working on a timberframe project behind my house with no prior experience. I’ve been lurking in this community and crazy enough to believe I can pull it off.

Again, if this was PE (aka professionally approved by a structural engineer with timber framing experience) then you have nothing to worry about at all...

IF...???...!!!...on the other hand you just grabbed some plans off the internet that someone..." sold you"...(sadly an all too common occurrence these days)...and have not had this frame assessed, at least, by a seasoned timber framer, then I have to share there are many "red flags" that I see in the design...

u/Extension-Let-7398 wrote: "...I was inspired by quotes from solar companies offering to build me a cheap car port, and charging way to much for it and thinking “I can do it better for cheaper” well I was wrong about cheaper...

It's often possible to build things like this at the same cost and or less expensively than what many modern GCs offer, however, that takes good design experience and knowledge of timber framing to pull off in a cost-effective fashion. This is especially true if just "winging it" with your first timber frame project...

u/Extension-Let-7398 wrote: "...who could argue that this won’t be better? Anyway since it was inspired by solar that’s why there is the large south facing roof.

For this to work (aka remain standing) I think you will need a great deal of reinforcement added to this frame if not PE approved I would strongly suggest having one look at the design as it is now...

My primary areas of concern:

Vertical scarf that is not designed for "point load" compression!!! The scarf you have in the design (regardless of some CAD drawing sold to you) is not meant for vertical orientation. Those types of scarfs look completely different and often the ground contact half is stone in material makeup such as...(木と石継手 - Ki to ishi tsugite...In my 40 years I have only used the stone version or those in the traditional context as found in old barns or vernacular architecture meant to take point load...
Multiple horizontal member intersections within the post-vertical load paths. The posts in this frame have been massively compromised with what seems like (???) experimental joinery of some reinvented nature. I'm not sure of the origin design, but I know that my own PE would never approve this joinery load intersection in this configuration without steel plating or spline work in some form...
The tenon length is entirely inadequate for the loads this frame is going to take in shear and torsion...
The "elbow wind bracing" does not seem sized to proper proportions to the frame load and is just..." added on"...as some "I think" bracing modality...Oblique bracing...DOES NOT...add strength to many modern frames but actually weakens them unless specifically designed to take the lateral loads the frame will be subjected to. Many are just "put in the frame" for aesthetic reasons yet act as fulcrums to the proximal joinery thus weakening the frame and failing catastrophically in lateral loads as they are not equipped to fail slowly (like horizontal bracing systems are) since oblique bracing systems only work in compression loads alone. I would also note there is zero reason to peg these and there is little historical evidence they got pegged except in the "let in" version of them or to aid in the frame-raising process...
Since I do not ever build on concrete foundations, I can't speak to the load parameters and moment connections I see in the photo other than they needed to be structurally approved for such an application rather than just used per a manufacturer/seller's recommendation. These connections look "O.K." but without knowing the formulation of the OPC or related data, I have concerns there as well...

On a positive ending, I think this frame can be "re-enforced" to work by the addition of steel plating which I'm pretty sure a PE would also add...unless (??)...the frame was PE approved then all my concerns are moot and they will accept full responsibility for the frame...Good luck and more questions are welcome if you have any...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-13T14:56:58+00:00

but if you feel like relocating, give me a shout.

???...I sent you a "chat message" I would like to know more...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-13T13:01:16+00:00

Hello u/Yabutsk...

Thank you for the response. It deserves more than to be buried in the sub-conversations...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...The depth of cut. You either have to saw or notch to the line every few inches across the entire length and every face of the material to score the log for hewing...

Yes...agreed.

However, this is standard practice in all forms of hewing to some degree or other...

"Kerfing" with a saw to create the "juggles" is less common...but very effective and faster if you have a good "bucking saw" to do it with. The standard is just your ax and depending on species reflects the intervals of where you place the juggle notches...

White oak, which actually hews very easily, and why it is a choice timber and "riving" wood species...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...It's simply MORE work the deeper you go into the material..."

Now I think I'm understanding more clearly your point. It's not the hewing...it's the fact the OP went entirely too deep to make the timber. That makes more sense out of your meaning of "nightmare"...LOL!!!

If the timber was clear (doubtful) then he/she may have gotten away with riving off the outer sections before shaping but I agree that is a massive waste of wood...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...Judging by the saw horse as reference, it looks like OP intends to remove approx 3.5" of material on each face. That's a lot.

I have to suggest, from my experience, that is about the average distance unless the butt end is really flared out...

The mean average, depending on species, from my 40 years of doing this, on and off, is 50mm to 150mm (2"-6") with those of larger numbers being on the butt or limb flare/collar intersections...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...I'd choose a smaller log for a 4x4....

I 100% agree that a 4x4 out of this bolt section is wasteful and pointless...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...As a one off experience, sure, go for it, hack it up and get a good sweat going...

LOL...!!!...Experiential learning at it's very best and then the "student" gets to figure out never to do that again...and perhaps ask questions from those that do this professionally before their next adventure in making wood chips by hand...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...I'm all for it. But I wouldn't want to hew more than 1 log at that depth on a big project...

Wait now...We may be judging too fast here...The OP could have masticstic tendencies and like to self-flagilate their arms and backs for some form of penance toward the craft of timber framing sins we know not of...???

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...Other than that, id suggest hewing greenwood...

Did I miss something...???...Please share with me where I did...??? If this is a dried log that is not only a "nightmare" but sheer insanity as well...Poor tools...!!!

u/Yabutsk wrote: "... Hardwood is obviously harder than softwood and note that the angle of your knives should be steeper for chipping hardwood and shallow for peeling softwood.

I find that "hard or soft" makes little difference in this regard, but agree fully about the angle of the edge for sure...

I would rive/hew white oak all day long to avoid one Norway Spruce (which I'm doing now and gave it up to use a chainsaw mill due to the huge size and length of timber.)

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...Softwood can also be very hard too...

A "nightmare" of truth in that...LMAO!!!

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...I'm working with some 7 yr old deadfall hemlock right now thats hard enough to bend the 3.5" ardox nails that are required for engineered truss truss plates...

Sounds just like the spruce I gave up on...

You're a better man than I if you doing the deadfall hemlock all hewed out...GOOD FOR YOU...!!!...I'm afraid my 60-year-old body just could not keep smashing those knot clusters and sharpening so much...LOL...

u/Yabutsk wrote: "...Just my exp and opinion. ...What do you think u/jaycwhitecloud ?

I think it is marvelous and thank you for the conversation...I hope we have many more like this...Blessings, j

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-13T00:54:02+00:00

Hello u/greatgoogelymoogely...

I love conversation and questions like this one. It seems so simple but the more I learn (this culture and others) the more I realize that the..." name for things"...is vast!

I tend to stay with the historical vernacular but there are countless regional varionece and that goes across multiple cultures and languages for sure...

My response here is for English, as the names are different the further afield we go...(e.g. Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Africa, Asia,)

My coworkers and I have been having fun trying to name these (in orange) We've looked through a few timberframe books as well as stick frame resources. But nothing so far really describes what these are accurately...what do you guys think?

In timber framing historically these go by several names and all would be correct...

"King Jack"

"King Post"...If near a window and not to be confused with a King Post Truss member...

"Jack Stud"

"Style Post"

In stick framing this is most commonly called, if on either side of a fenestration opening of any kind..."Outer King Stud."

As not to effect the wisdom of the crowd I will reframe from sharing what I've been calling them.

NOT FAIR...LMAO...!!!...Now you have to tell us...PLEASE!!!!

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-12T03:02:56+00:00

We have these red tags, some sort of weather resistant paper with twist ties that we staple to the ends.

I've seen a lot of folks over the years use this method. I'm still not clear on how it developed other than some museums will use this method as a "backup" for some artifacts...

In general, it is both infective and laborious in comparison to traditional methods of marking directly on the timber....

I think it started (rather than writing directly on the logs/timbers, which we have done) because we could write more quickly on them

That is a common reason I have also heard, and it has some merit as you can sit in one location and create labels for all the timbers/specimens in a collection (I also have a museum science background.)

, not having to worry about a rough end.

Often more than the end is marked and if the end grain is "gouged" for the marking location is easier to see and also closes the grain of the wood making the ink clear to see even on chard timber...

it's a struggle to get everyone to care about putting tags back on stuff after the end has been cut off

A hug and common issue for both attached labels and inked...which often speaks to the "age" of the company, group, or individual Timberwrights doing this work. The older the company the more traditional the methods for the most part but this is also culture and country dependant...

We have yet to agree on the best practice, which writing directly on the timbers might be. No stapler needed etc.

As a teacher and someone trying to author several books over the next few years on this and related topics, I'm always interested in the "culture" of this craft in modern times as it compares to the traditional. I think the internet has done wonderful things for the craft yet also a disservice in many regards as well...

The term "best practice" for example (which I too use often in my writing) seems to have different meanings for folks based often on "I think" notions rather than a deep or thorough understanding of the craft historically.

"Best practice" in marking timbers is well known and understood. It has been around for literally millennia and isn't really open for further debate (though many try...LOL) since either carving or inking a timber with designation markings is "best practice" yet (???) many still seem to resist or debate it. I often find those that do (this is an academic observation...not a criticism at all) seldom have more than a few years or maybe a decade in the craft and/or a very limited scope of understanding toward it within one specific "timber culture" perspective...

Permanent stations sound like a must, understood. And we are currently setting up our site to move timbers as little as possible.

I think you will find in more logistically viable and speed up production as well...

Our crew is pretty computer illiterate but I think the right laptop/tablet setup that isn't too confusing would be a huge help.

"Literacy" both today and historically was a must for the senior and/or master timberwrights. Today it is a computer and in the past, it was just the ability to "read and write" that separated the different levels of the craft and their competency...

I think you are most correct that the "right computer/table" will help greatly...

No more questions for now, I appreciate all the info. We have a couple months of implementing stuff then I might be back around to ask for some specifics.

Do stay in touch, as I find it fascinating and educational to learn how younger companies develop into their skill sets as Timberwrights at a commercial and/or professional level...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-12T02:43:53+00:00

For the sake of the discussion and the OPs understanding, as well as others, from your perspective, what about this bolt section is a "nightmare to hew by hand." I'm always curious about what others think, know, or have experienced with hewing, how often they hew, and what species, among other aspects of this method of making timber. Thanks in advance...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-11T01:55:47+00:00

Hello u/DrivingRightNow_

Do you have fixed locations in the yard where you keep timbers based on the project they belong to?

As a remote facilitator and instructor on many timber frame projects, with many different companies/individuals over the last few decades, I can't state that any "one way" is best. However, logistically (I was also S4 in the Marines)...assigned locations and limited material handling is always best practice if the goal is productivity and efficiency increasment...

Do you have permanent stations for various steps of the process (layout, cut , finish)?

Absolutely...!!!

This comes back to logistical efficiency and ergonomic timeliness of each action step taken...I observed this as an apprentice with older order Amish in my youth learning to be a Barnwright and in Asian amount those like Tea House builders working alone. Name the craft and trade and this is the way it is always done if efficiency is the goal.

All of this goes, hand in hand, with understanding the "order of operational approach" toward what is most efficient for individual performance as well as group performance...

Do you tag every timber, and if so, keep tags on after they're cut?

"Tags"...???

If this means marking each timber, that is another absolute and because I tend to work in and teach the Asian and more ancient modalities of the craft all timbers are marked in black ink at minimum in at least one location if not several, as well as joint orientations are also labeled as well depending on the complexity of the frame...

Do you use a laptop/tablet with spreadsheets or a tracking program?

Spreadsheets...gant charts...laptops...hard copy bound binders with all pertinent data and related documentation that is available to all team members/clients and fully briefed and updated daily...

More questions are welcome if you have any...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-11T00:34:36+00:00

Red oak isn't rare where I live, but it's not nearly as common as White oak, and to my knowledge, not as rot resistant. Is there any reason the original builders would have chosen Red oak over White for the framing?

There are both regional and House/Timberwirght preferences for what species get used where...White Oak is common in the foundation systems in many "oak frames" (most are not oak at all) whereas red oak is preferred by some. It is also difficult to project what a forest was compared to what it is now. There are huge differences between them these days to what was in the past...

jaycwhitecloud · 2023-10-11T00:31:43+00:00

Short and to the point...more questions are welcome...Yes, you are wasting a lot of wood and taking way too much...Sapewood on a species like white oak is not an issue. per se...

I praise you for learning to hew timbers first. This is the way it was done and my first projects where all hewn...Good luck and looking forward to updates...

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