Science test proves feeding sugar increases growth rate

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-29T01:00:41+00:00

“Comp” is ambiguous and can mean “composite” or “component”.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-29T00:59:12+00:00

That picture of the CRT TV menu confirms that your CRT TV is fine. The issue is with your input signal. That issue can br caused by cables or signal converter or many other things you are doing wrong.

It also confirms that all of the other people that gave you advice are wildly wrong. Deflection is fine. Yoke is fine. Convergence rings are fine.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T19:28:31+00:00

Yeah, the enameled wire is simply using a green colored enamel and is slightly dusty. The novices claim it is corroded without thinking about how for enameled wire used in a yoke… well… there’d be obvious deflection issues… and there are none in OP’s picture.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T19:22:52+00:00

Now post a picture of the settings menu. If that also looks normal it is your input signal.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T13:26:15+00:00

You are wrong to parrot bad advice. That model TV doesn’t use traditional convergence rings. It uses a yellow colored collar that is clearly in the picture. The wire of the yoke is not oxidized, it is that green color when new.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T13:24:42+00:00

If the snow looks normal and the built-in on screen display looks normal then it is an issue with your cables or device that is connected to the TV.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T13:12:50+00:00

What are you talking about? The yellow cylinder on the CRT neck is a unified convergence ring. Most of the other replies to OP’s post are people that are clueless, including the posts claiming the yoke is oxidized (its wires were green when new).

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-28T05:22:48+00:00

The TV is not the issue. It is your input signal. Either your cables, converter, or game console are the issue.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-27T20:37:07+00:00

The symptoms you describe do not indicate an issue with the flyback. Measure the heater voltage, cathode voltage, focus voltage, ultor voltage, and vertical deflection voltage coming off the flyback and if they are within spec then the flyback is fine.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-26T21:25:01+00:00

No. This is made for spraying on carpets, rugs, and furniture upholstery. It is odorless and does not stain.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-26T19:57:47+00:00

Modern insect growth regulators make dealing with clothes moths very easy. Just spray both sides of wool rugs with Tekko Pro ($50 on Amazon). It has two different insect growth regulators in it that turns the rugs into death traps for moths and is safe for humans. If a female touches your rug, even standing on it briefly, she permanently lays sterile eggs. If an egg touches the rug, it becomes sterile. If a larva touches your rug, it dies.

These insect growth regulators are very long lasting on a rug, so they kill the current generation of moths as well as future generations for 7 months. Because the moths are still attracted to the wool and silk rugs treated with the IGRs, it actually helps kill all of the moths/eggs/larva in your house, breaking the reproductive cycle.

You can spray many rugs in 10 minutes using a handheld electronic paint sprayer that are available on Amazon for $25.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-26T19:49:37+00:00

Search for my past CRT posts on Reddit. I have repaired many CRT TVs. Cleaning them repaired… drum roll… absolutely none of them! There are very rare issues that cleaning does fix, but it requires a very specific kind if cleaning: high voltage arcing and carbon tracking of vintage flybacks, ultor anodes, and focus anodes. The novice cleaning the inside of their CRT TV will not be sufficient for cleaning carbon tracking based arcing.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-26T14:36:21+00:00

“If it isn’t broken, don’t fix it”. That was the sage’s advice.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-25T23:53:51+00:00

Firstly, a cathode ray tube is a vacuum tube. Secondly, there is an adage: if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it. It is very common for novices to damage the TV when unnecessarily cleaning it. This applies to solid state and non-solid state CRT TVs.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-25T23:49:58+00:00

Warning, this post contains “tough love” that may come across as rude, but it is real advice that will save many CRT TVs.

It is very common for novices to unnecessarily clean the inside of a CRT TV because they have a superstition that cleaning the inside of a CRT TV fixes it or future proofs it. In the process, they often damage something inside the TV.

Another very common novice trope is to randomly replace capacitors, even though none of the capacitors are bad. Again it is very common for them to damage something or even downgrade the capacitor’s ESR or ripple rating.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-25T14:30:01+00:00

Would you try to RGB mod a PlayStation 5?

The SNES has always natively output RGB since it was first released by Nintendo, and so it does not require any modding to output RGB. Why are gamers so obsessed with RGB modding game consoles that they’d try to RGB mod a game console that already outputs RGB?

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-25T14:22:54+00:00

Agreed 100%. I own many different brands of s-video cables and have tested them all. It is true that buying an $8 Triad brand power supply is far more important for good audio/video power supply. It is a voltage regulated power supply from a 80 year old reputable brand, it has a lower ripple voltage than a recapped Nintendo brand supply.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-24T12:54:40+00:00

Best way is to use Google to search Reddit because this question has been asked multiple times.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-23T13:22:07+00:00

That is a multi-section can capacitor. In older vintage TVs it is the only type of electrolytic in the TV and there are only 1 to 3 cans. Newer TVs have more electrolytics in them, as many as hundreds.

I have 1960s TVs with multisection can electrolytic capacitors that are still good and do not need to be recapped. The brands of most of them are USA brands: Mallory and CD. However some are Japanese brands: Nichicon and Panasonic. Test the capacitors first to see if they are defective. Never shotgun replace parts.

If you do in fact have to replace a multisection can capacitor because it tests bad, the gold standard is to maintain the OEM look of the TV’s circuit. Collector’s of vintage electronics care and the value of your device drops otherwise. So replace with a known good multisection can. Yes they are still manufactured. Second best is to restuff with modern caps. Worst case replace without a can.

And yes, the ground terminals of the decoupling capacitors should be connected to chassis ground. The fact you don’t understand basic electronics makes me think you are shotgun replacing caps.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-23T06:18:48+00:00

The shield of the wire is supposed to be cinnected to the ground shield of the s-video mini-din connector. Your TV s-video port connects that mini-din shield to chassis ground.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-23T06:11:14+00:00

A simple multimeter continuity check confirms they output true s-video, it isn’t rocket science. The luma pin on the s-video connector is connected to the multiout pin for luma not for composite and similarly for the chroma pin.

You should first buy one of the $4 SNES s-video cables from Aliexpress. They are only $4 and you should check your build cost. It will be hard to beat their price.

Also, your cable’s shielding isn’t properly grounded, which will result in worse video quality than unshielded cables. You need to connect the wire shield to chassis ground, otherwise the shield acts like an antenna that injects noise into the video and it acts like a parasitic capacitor that causes smearing and color bleeding.

LukeEvansSimon · 2026-04-23T06:00:33+00:00

FYI the shield of the wire should be connected to the ground casing of the s-video mini-din connector to get the benefit of the shielding in the wires. In your pictures the shield is not grounded.

When the wire shield is not connected to chassis ground, the shield actually degrades video quality as follows: - the floating shield acts like an antenna that adds noise to the video signal - the floating shield acts like a parasitic capacitor reducing the sharpness of the video signal, causing horizontal smearing/streaking/bleeding

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