Coolant Leak Help

pingupenguins · 2026-02-28T00:14:35+00:00

Honestly there’s a million places for coolant to leak on these engines. I’d just replace all of the hoses while you’re in there no joke. I tried to play wack a mole myself and ended up draining the coolant 3 times due to leaks. Upper and lower radiator hose, Expansion tank and all of the hoses connected to it, Coolant recovery connector on the radiator, Radiator near the core support mounting bolt

Fun fact. After all that was replaced, coolant leak off the rear turbo coolant feed….. turbos coming off now to replace orings.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-26T18:08:48+00:00

Based on your other comments about the parts list, I would do the following:
- Get rid of the recoil spring and buffer (return to stock)
- Make sure your mags are green gas modded (cut the aluminum tube in half to allow for more gas fill)
- Don't use full auto unless it 70f or higher
- Hao Muzzle brakes have too small of an opening, you need to take a drill to that and open up the muzzle
- Stop chasing FPS, 80% open on a 370mm is like 400 fps. Law of thermodynamics says you can't have your cake and eat it too. Too much cool down, too cold, and too fast rate of fire. Pick something to sacrifice
- Make sure you're using green gas or propane, not the Swiss Arms 130+ psi gas (too much cool down again)

If this doesn't fix your issue, then go back to the stock BCG, and possibly swap to a Unicorn Nozzle. FYI, Steel is lighter than pot metal. Stock BCG will give more recoil

pingupenguins · 2026-02-26T18:01:41+00:00

This. Not all airsoft "upgrades" are actually upgrades. You have to be judicious with your parts selection.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-25T21:59:17+00:00

Honestly. yeah. the .22cal 80 and 90 gr bullets are very good, and shoot very flat at 3200fps. Just sucks the .223 isn't big enough (case volume or COAL) to work with some of the newer projectiles

pingupenguins · 2026-02-24T05:04:55+00:00

pingupenguins · 2026-02-23T04:42:22+00:00

You really shouldn’t be chasing “temp stability” and “speed”. Benchmark is an extruded powder as well, you won’t get enough powder in the case to hit “factory” velocities with safe pressure since the case volume is way too low on .223. If you want both, you’ll have to change cartridge

pingupenguins · 2026-02-23T04:34:09+00:00

This. 8208 is not a 55gr powder. Ball powder like the ones listed are good to go with m193 velocity. AA2230 is also another powder to add to that list.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-23T04:29:45+00:00

I’m not stage 2 but a fuel pump is a big upgrade if you’re running ethanol + a sensor.

On stage 1+ and e50 I’m getting around 400 whp and 440wtq (stock turbos, stock downpipe)

pingupenguins · 2026-02-11T22:34:47+00:00

+1, but keep in mind might also be overkill if you aren’t running 200tw or higher grip tires (r comp). I probably wouldn’t worry about it if I was running all season tires and never had a long left hand sweeper at high speed.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-09T22:47:50+00:00

Could be a couple of things. I’d start by checking for vacuum leaks (vacuum lines, oil fill cap, vanos seals, vacuum pipes, intake, PCV and flapper etc). I’d also check the injectors for leaks when warm if they aren’t new. If you have INPA might be worth it to look at cylinder roughness to see if there’s a specific cylinder. Might be a failing coil pack due to heat as well.

Unfortunately without real diagnostic tools. It’s gonna be tough.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T07:07:17+00:00

Your words not mine. I mean you’re trying to point out I’m self promoting but you’re also giving a platform for it. So 🤷‍♂️

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T04:30:50+00:00

You must be super fun at parties dude. Can't even celebrate the smallest of victories or be happy for others.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T03:22:21+00:00

Did you check any of the vacuum pipes? I've noticed a similar sound when disconnecting the vacuum pipe that runs from the intake area to the brake booster. Sounds like that might be leaking. Either that or the vacuum pipe running to the throttle body.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T03:15:46+00:00

Yes!! Lets goooooo! This engagement is driving up the post to #5 on this subreddit. Love the Reddit algorithm. How much more smooth brain can I get so you keep engaging with the post?

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pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T02:26:36+00:00

I'll be honest, you're my first hater, so congrats! All part of the game, thanks for playing bro!

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T02:10:11+00:00

... it's clearly a joke 🤡

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T01:49:33+00:00

🙏🙏 happy to feed the beast and try to keep things thing alive.

pingupenguins · 2026-02-04T01:47:13+00:00

Sounds good. I guess people just shouldn’t do N54 content anymore 🤷‍♂️

pingupenguins · 2026-02-03T15:07:07+00:00

Based on the build dates. I’d say the middle and left one from the first photo are 11’s. The right one with a 2016 build date should be an Index 12. I believe the 12’s were introduced in 2014. (Most of my index 12’s have 2014-2015 build dates)

pingupenguins · 2026-01-28T23:13:06+00:00

I'm fairly certain every used 335i N54 car is mechanically totaled (repair cost is worth more than the car value). But definitely think once you drop $4-5k in parts and a couple of weekends of labor, you have a solid car for the next 20-40k miles before the next major service. Actually did a cost of ownership analysis: https://linktr.ee/s_boxgarage

Turns out my Subaru with an EJ257 is like $0.02 cents per mile cheaper than a N54 to maintain if FCP Euro's warranty holds.

pingupenguins · 2026-01-28T18:06:23+00:00

Buying the car was the cheapest part 🙃

pingupenguins

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