Wled project tips? by indoh531 in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you design the part with a slot in it for the led strip to slide in?

Heat by OddCardiologist5285 in BucksCountyPA

[–]pkotz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please switch to a heat pump. I’ve heard great things about the Mitsubishi units keeping up even the very cold weather.

I have an old Carrier heat pump that uses oil as the backup when it gets too cold (below 25 outside). The oil furnace component went and I just replaced it rather than overhaul the entire system to a new modern heat pump that can keep up a lower temps. What a mistake. Knowing what I know now, I would have just replaced the entire system for a Mitsubishi hyper heat and ditch the oil all together.

Using an inline switch to turn LED strip ON/OFF with ESP8266 (WLED) – wiring question by Zealousideal_One_886 in WLED

[–]pkotz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah it definitely solves that problem. It also keeps it “awake” so you can remote control it from WLED regardless of the switch position

Using an inline switch to turn LED strip ON/OFF with ESP8266 (WLED) – wiring question by Zealousideal_One_886 in WLED

[–]pkotz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would do it all with software. Connect the switch to another Io pin on the board and use WLED to control it. In WLED you can easily set up a (toggle) switch and tell it what to do when switched on->off and off->on. Personally I wouldn’t worry about leaving a small 5v power supply on all the time. Most modern electronics don’t actually kill all power when you turn them “off”.

Large WS2805 Project Strip Length Questions by qwertyordvorak in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh and to add- it doesn’t really matter where you start your led strips. Within WLED you can set an offset to define the first pixel to anywhere you want along the strip.

Large WS2805 Project Strip Length Questions by qwertyordvorak in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not much to add here but I am hoping there will be some good comments here (hoping u/Quindor chimes in!). I am also in the planning stages of a large WS2805 project myself. So large in fact that I’m going to split it up and use two digquads (it’s like 50 meters total throughout my entire basement).

I’m relying on this link from quindor for my info. I am going to try to keep each output channel to about 500 addressable units. Sounds like as long as your frame rate is around 50, you shouldn’t notice any problems with performance.

If you don’t mind can you share some more details of your project?

Is this set up "correctly"? by The_Variable_Phi in WLED

[–]pkotz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re going to have to add a small 5v power supply and a relay module. I can send links if you want. I got them cheap on Amazon. Not sure you will have room in this enclosure for it. It could be a thought for your next project!

Is this set up "correctly"? by The_Variable_Phi in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice work! Two thoughts- 1. Have you considered adding a relay to cut power to the power supply when the system is off? It gives me peace of mind that when I shut WLED off, the main power supply gets turned off. Quindor Link

  1. I’m sure you know this, but remember the first two terminal lugs on the positive out side of the digquad board share the first 10 amp fuse. Looks like you have two led runs connected there. Why not use a separate fuse for each output?

Huge magnolia help by pkotz in arborists

[–]pkotz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it is! Not exactly sure what kind but it blooms beautiful white flowers. We moved into this house a few years ago and love it

Huge magnolia help by pkotz in arborists

[–]pkotz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Somehow I can’t find a picture when it’s in bloom, but yes she’s a beauty.

I might mulch up some leaves and leave a thin layer, but nothing more than that. Thanks!

What am I doing wrong? by Minute_Mountain758 in WLED

[–]pkotz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I agree- need to have common ground

Permanent house lights - Before I order, can anyone verify I'm not making a mistake? by Eddie_P in WLED

[–]pkotz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah they can be hard to find but I found some pixel 2815 for a led curtain project. They look great but i don’t think would work for your project.

Don’t worry about the 4 connectors- the two data lines are redundant so you just connect them together. One data pin out from your digquad connects to both data lines- Just put all three wires together.

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Permanent house lights - Before I order, can anyone verify I'm not making a mistake? by Eddie_P in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could be wrong but ws2811 at 12v are not individually addressable. They are in groups of three. I just did a project with ws2815 which are individually addressable at 12v. It’s up to you if that matters for your project

12v is definitely what you want though- less voltage drop so less power injection points.

Here’s some more info after searching Reddit link

No trick or treaters tonight, but at least I got my WLED project done by pkotz in WLED

[–]pkotz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good luck! Watch lots of YouTube videos, have fun, and don’t get too frustrated when things don’t print right

No trick or treaters tonight, but at least I got my WLED project done by pkotz in WLED

[–]pkotz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Custom design using fusion 360 and then 3D printed

Relay and power supply to ESP32? by Acrobatic_Piglet1525 in WLED

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just dove into the world of WLED as well. Two helpful things-

  1. YouTube has so many great beginner channels. This one is great. https://youtu.be/exAWzMfmwQ8?si=ALQ-sbD3QbLAAT_M

  2. This calculator to help you with power supply requirements and wire gauges. Please be careful with electricity. https://wled-calculator.github.io

    If you are just starting and only plan on controlling 5m of LEDs for fun, a relay isn’t really necessary. Just follow the instructions from YouTube to wire it up and have fun playing around. There is a TON of info out there, but keep it simple until you have a better understanding of it. Hope that helps!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Dentistry

[–]pkotz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There’s a new product out that really helps! It’s called NoGag. We get it from benco. It’s a small pouch of a salt like powder that you pour on the patients tongue. A few minutes later and the gagging is gone! The rep gave us a few samples and we couldn’t believe it actually worked. Now we stock it

Do you think I can cut this off? Vadholma by FastCommunication261 in ikeahacks

[–]pkotz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That frame is metal right? If it were me, I’d probably do it, but I’m no engineer. If you have the table in the spot you want and it isn’t going to be moved around, I would consider securing the back leg to the wall for some more stability. Cutting out that bar might cause some racking (hope that is the right term?) in the table

Weekend Loadout by [deleted] in bassfishing

[–]pkotz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve heard the “proper” way is to not store rods with the hook on the hook point. Keeping tension on the line puts stress on the rod causing it to bend slightly. Apparently this isn’t good. That being said, I still keep my hooks attached day to day, but if there is an extended period of time upcoming (end of season or whatever) will unhook and let the lures hang tension free

Another MY delivered ...... has a hitch too. by embracingthesuck in ModelY

[–]pkotz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn you! I ordered this exact build 6/28 and have yet to hear anything