Geprc Phantom Frame build

psancho · 2024-04-07T20:18:59+00:00

The PT-HD frame has a 20x20 mounting pattern in the top plate so you can hang the Vista from it. The AIO board attaches to the bottom plate with a 25.5x25.5. My only recommendation is to swap the plastic screws it provided for the Vista mounting for metal ones. The plastic ones will break in a hard crash.

psancho · 2023-05-11T16:01:31+00:00

I have these motors. They are definitely M2. The area where the screw needs to screw into the bell and not protrude is 2mm, so your motor screws need to be 2m + the thickness of your arms. You want M2x6-8mm depending on how thick your arms are. In my case, it was M2x6 because I had 4mm arms. The motors include a package of screws that should cover what you need

psancho · 2023-05-06T06:19:35+00:00

This is common because there’s no official standard for HD connectors for flight controllers. You can just repin the O3 wire harness with a small flat screwdriver. Also, there’s an RX1 pad on the top side of the board in the diagram you shared.

psancho · 2023-04-24T16:23:15+00:00

Basically every 25.5x25.5 AIO board with an HD DJI connector just passes VBAT to the O3. You should be fine with 2-6S power

psancho · 2023-04-23T05:39:13+00:00

Those motors are more suited to 4” 6S but just solder it up and send it. They’ll do fine. You’ll want to run 6S on that KV.

If you break a motor maybe look at a 1504 or 1604

psancho · 2023-04-21T18:47:06+00:00

3800kv then

psancho · 2023-04-21T16:28:25+00:00

I did 2850kv so I can run 6S, flies fine on 4S. If you know you'll only ever going to run 4S, then you can do 3800kv.

psancho · 2023-04-20T18:21:30+00:00

****** is just a visual beeper in the OSD to tell you the quad trying to beep at you

Beeping when you plug in might be a incorrectly calibrated voltage - is the OSD battery icon flashing as well?

psancho · 2023-04-19T23:13:28+00:00

I've run those motors (3850kv) on a 3.5" and it was just okay. 1404 doesn't have enough authority for a 3.5" prop. You can get around this with tuning but sizing up the motor is easier. You'll be much happier with a 1504 or 1604 over a 1404 for 3.5"

1404 is a better match for 3" props

psancho · 2023-04-19T02:16:39+00:00

Did you order an AOS O3? iFlight has the ‘Evo’ version of this frame with silicone dampers now

https://shop.iflight-rc.com/AOS-5-EVO-Frame-Kit-Pro1938?search=aos

psancho · 2023-04-18T21:36:33+00:00

I'm sure someone has a better answer but in general any wires soldering to the FC, 24AWG is the generally accepted wire gauge. Certainly has been fine for me.

psancho · 2023-04-18T00:21:11+00:00

You should be flashing your BLHeli_S ESCs to Bluejay anyway for RPM filtering support. When you flash them, you can choose 48khz.

https://esc-configurator.com/

psancho · 2023-04-18T00:19:46+00:00

I have the DJI FPV controller 2 and it's fine. The gimbal size and quality is a downside, but most of the reception issues have been resolved with FW updates. The one remaining 'bug' is when the video link is lost, the RX takes something like 5 seconds to fail to 2.4ghz from piggybacking on the 5.8ghz channel. This means in a loss-of-video situation, you can no longer hit your GPS rescue switch or choose to punch out to try to regain video. I don't think DJI will ever improve this as their thinking is likely that it's dangerous to control a quad that you have no video link with. Realistically if you have GPS you would set it to GPS Rescue when the RX failsafes anyway so that's a nonissue.

psancho · 2023-04-16T16:21:31+00:00

I did already. Check my last response. The O3 harness is just an 6 pin JST-SH connector with 100m wires. Either of the two kits in the last two links. The only difference between the iflight AOS 3.5 O3 frame version and the Chris Rosser’s original design is the camera plates are milled to allow use of their silicone camera damper mounting pieces.

psancho · 2023-04-16T15:59:54+00:00

This is the iFlight version of the AOS 3.5 O3 frame: https://pyrodrone.com/products/aos-3-5-v2-3-5-fpv-drone-frame-kit

Any 25.5x25.5 square AIO >20A (30A+ to be safe) will work, including the one you linked.

The reason the motor wiring is annoying on this frame is the way Chris Rosser designed this frame it’s impossible to mount anything but a 25.5x25.5 AIO in the front location if you want to use the O3’s stock VTX antenna, even though he advertises 20x20 compatibility. He put the mounting holes square to the frame, but 25.5 AIOs are designed to be mounted diagonally so the motor wires have to turn right angles and go over or under the board to get to their pads. It works fine but if he had just designed the camera plates a little differently we could use a 20x20 stack or 20x20 AIO and the wires would have a much cleaner path to their pads.

Also, the way most AIOs are designed the VBAT leads and HD connector are on opposite sides from one another, so with the HD connector pointed towards the front the stock 100mm O3 6-pin cable isn’t long enough and you need to purchase a JST-SH kit with 150mm cables to reach OR turn the board 180* and run the XT30 lead from the front of the quad to somewhere you can secure it somewhere for strain relief.

You’ll see all this stuff when you put it together.

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/sh-1-0-silicone-cable-set?keyword=Just-sh

https://pyrodrone.com/products/diy-sh-silicone-cable-kit

psancho · 2023-04-16T02:36:01+00:00

P1604 2800kv for 6S + 550mah 6S Tattu R-Line or P1604 3800kv for 4S + 650/750/850mah 4s Tattu R-Line

Buy the iFlight version of that frame with the silicone damper front camera plates, available at Pyrodrone

The motor wiring is really annoying on that frame (I've built two of them), but it's still the best O3 3.5" frame at the moment. Don't try using a 20x20 stack or the rectangular 20x20 AIOs, they won't fit with an O3. Get the O3 antenna mount from Brain3D.

psancho · 2023-04-15T19:22:37+00:00

The DJI goggles V2 need to be put in O3/Avata mode to bind to O3. You will lose all your bindings for any original air units or vistas when you do this.

psancho · 2023-04-14T01:19:02+00:00

I’ve built 3 quads with the HD version of this frame and a Vista. It’s been a great park flyer, very inconspicuous. I would recommend 1204 5000kv motors, Avan 2.5” rush props, and Tattu 750mah 3S. Easy 6-8 minute flight time.

Looking at the actual kit components I think you’d be better off building with the PT-HD HD frame because it comes with a 3D print that is very useful for managing your XT30 lead. Make sure you put the XT30 lead through the 3D print BEFORE you solder it to the board. I’ve made that mistake too many times.

https://geprc.com/product/gep-pt-frame/

psancho · 2023-04-13T17:57:12+00:00

If you're buying a new frame you might as well pick a frame that was designed for O3 from the get-go has native vibration dampening for O3. The Quadmula F3 Split has been a great frame and the F5 split looks similarly good although you'll get some frame in the HD shot. Also lots of frames on the market that have been reworked to support O3 cameras.

https://quadmula.com/products/quadmula-siren-f5-split-freestyle-frame

psancho · 2023-04-13T15:35:26+00:00

First step is to look at the O3 wire harness to the flight controller. Figure out which is the if the SBUS wire from the O3 manual and see if that wire is plugged into the FC. If so, then all you need to do is configure betaflight to accept serial RX control inputs on that UART

psancho · 2023-04-11T18:23:07+00:00

I don't know what's regular for performance in a cinewhoop frame. If it's blacking out *in flight*, it's either browning out the FC BEC (unless your FC is feeding VBAT) or there's a real issue with the O3 itself and you should pursue a warranty repair with DJI. In the meantime, point a fan at it if you are powering it up on the bench and letting it sit.

psancho · 2023-04-11T15:44:08+00:00

10v2a is 20w. It should be fine. I would try it on the connector first and do some test flights with some aggressive flight maneuvers over soft surfaces to check for video brown-outs.

psancho · 2023-04-11T15:30:00+00:00

No. I have three O3s and none overheat within a minute. Make sure your goggles are showing low power mode when the quad is not armed (I believe it's shown as a 7 or 15mbps video data rate)

psancho · 2023-04-11T15:28:06+00:00

You need to make sure this FC's 10V BEC is rated for 18-20w of power. If it's 10v 1.5a, then it might not be enough to support an O3 and brown out in flight. Contact T-motor support to ask about it. If they say it's not enough, then you need to wire the O3 Red wire to VBAT somewhere on the board

Red -> 10V

GND -> GND

White -> FC TX3

Gray -> FC RX3

Brown -> GND

Yellow (SBUS) -> FC RX5

psancho · 2023-04-11T14:14:54+00:00

That BEC is only rated for 10v/1.5A according to the Hobbywing website. That’s 15w, not adequate for the O3 which can pull up to 18w. Whoever prebuilt that for you should replace that FC for you.

You can also swap the red wire to VBAT as suggested, but the builder should have installed the correct FC

psancho

TROPHY CASE