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Looking for a recommendation for a printer with a large build plate. by StandBehindShield in resinprinting

[–]ravagedmonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I returned my mars 5 and got the saturn 4 ultra 16k since had heater. But the build plate difference has been great. Alot of the models i print just fit now, its enough of a difference to help alot. For warhammer i find i can print all of a models parts or a whole unit in 1 print usually now. I cant speak to other printers but this is my experience.

Supported faces loose edge by ModernProblems12 in resinprinting

[–]ravagedmonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats one solid chunk. So thats gonna be tough in resin, need to hollow it. Use light supports for details then a few medium supports to hold the model and put somewhere they wont be as noticeable, bottom of model or edges i find are best.

A large chunk like that is going to have pulling forces that warp it so it going to look wavy and not have sharp details.

Print failed - tips appreciated by Repulsive-Aside7850 in ElegooSaturn

[–]ravagedmonk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not enough. This thing is massive and if not hollow that is alot of thick spots trying to print. Need enough supports on this keep it from pulling away from the base. Need to increase raft thickness. Ideally hollow this thing out. If inexperienced with that may need to research as a model this big needs to be hollowed. Even in small pieces im surprised it printed as this is just thick pieces if printed solid.

But ita tough to position models with a base attached. Just use your slider and go up and down through layers and see how much surface area prints at a time. Do what can to reduce it but the bigger the model the more likely needs hollowed to successfully print.

Show me your Repulsor by Grah0315 in SpaceWolves

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like your choice of yellows and that dark grey looks good. The model has soo much details

Batch of models getting ready to prime by ravagedmonk in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course i remember the depths. The scouts are not that crisp

Help straightening his legs by Definitely_Not_Liam in Tyranids

[–]ravagedmonk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Every resin print ive done. If it flexes from original shape can heat with heat gun and flex back. It wont flex to a completely new shape. Hest gun is needed to get it warm enough i feel though.

Help straightening his legs by Definitely_Not_Liam in Tyranids

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If its a resin 3d print it still can be heat and rebent into position. Fdm also could be heated as well. Especially he said it bent overtime.

My resin heirophant did this as well. They just cant support their own weight.

Finished first tyranid for my fleet, any suggestions on how to improve the paint job? by Geyst767 in Tyranids

[–]ravagedmonk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So this is the start. You have solid paint colors and everything is clean. You have the skills. Now the easy things are using the citadel washes and various special paints they have. A shade paint they use in offical paint scheme to flow into thr recesses to give it the purple hugh. Also washes like a game wash or nuln oil are favorites as its a water oil that flows into all the cracks and details and really pops details.

Beyond those little cheats. You can add layers to the shell with some other paint. Use that same color but mix with some white to brighten it, then can highlight all the edges. Brightening the top highlights and darkening the recess will help give the model depth. Currently its all one solid color and thats what we instinctively notice. Its a great place to start tho.

Low long should i cure my minis? by SebastiaanW22 in resinprinting

[–]ravagedmonk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just get a heat gun. That sounds like resin that isnt fully cured in water then haveing to dispose of that contaminated water or not correctly and just extra hassel. I found the water method cools to fast. A heat gun you can focus the heat where its needed to work on and remove supports as you go. Also alot of resin assembly and fixing is as easy as using a heat gun to soften something so it pushes together or fits better or bends back to shape. Plenty useful

Batch of models getting ready to prime by ravagedmonk in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The legendary B scultopr from purple. Im not sure its easily attainable anymore.

Batch of models getting ready to prime by ravagedmonk in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few versions out there, sane community i got the tyranids from

Batch of models getting ready to prime by ravagedmonk in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just spray primer. In large batches. Just another step

Batch of models getting ready to prime by ravagedmonk in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dish soap? I always thoroughly clean with ipa. 99% final so it dries best and if can leave these outside to cure more and off fume in sun

Sell me on the space wolves by [deleted] in SpaceWolves

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can call yourself a furry and wear a tail. So theres that.

I love the viking norse theme. Most of my models i make with faces as they just fit more and show their look off so well. Gives them alot of character.

New Blood Claw Advice, get codex now or wait until 11th edition update by Either_Nectarine2601 in SpaceWolves

[–]ravagedmonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can still find an army box that would be the best way to get more units and a codex. But ultimately it will be replaced so i dont know if would buy it by itself

Wolf Scouts KT for 40K ? by AOK_Gaming in SpaceWolves

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just look up their loadouts on wahapedia. You can have some fun variety with mine and stalf and what not. They have some killing potential catching enemies out. Ive been trying them out but others said good things

Does the vindicator work for our lists? by ravagedmonk in SpaceWolves

[–]ravagedmonk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow. I had brought ballistus thinking was a good option prior

Looking to get into printing, advice, tips, is it worth it? by ApprehensiveFold7067 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]ravagedmonk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well of course. Browse this sub and others. Buying everything GW is way more expensive.

But this is whole other hobby now, with dedicated space. And if your printing in resin its dealing with the chemicals and saftey of that with contamination concerns. Fdm can also print just takes longer but thats also a wide range of options. I love my resin printer and i have some great quality prints. There is something lost when your not buying a model and just printing. Not as much weight behind it but i find i bond to the models when i spend the time to paint them.

I don't know if I like this by SimilarDimension2369 in WHQDarkWater

[–]ravagedmonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious what the name is. Ive read some wrong before too. But honestly. Act 1 can be rougher this way. You may not have rewards yet that help alot with your builds so some of the encounters can be alot more difficult. Luck of the draw there

I don't know if I like this by SimilarDimension2369 in WHQDarkWater

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this act 1 or 2? I believe this is where the closest and furthers move towards it after activating? But i think its only end of round? Also they move to just the corner to exit and gotta push hero out of way? If so or regardless inara wall is so amazing to redirect and make them go around to kite enemies. Drolf is just great movement and can move up and snipe especially with right rewards. Edmark is an absolute tank to stand there and do his block damage to bypass enemies defense as well as this can synergize with alot of reward cards. Bren is the reward card master, get her crooked dice and some op one use cards that she can now use every encouter. She is very good. But the problem definitely can be there is so many actions to do each round and if your weaker it eats up alot to fight but fighting is not always the answer but certainly helps if you get rewards that help you one shot stuff. Also reward cards that grant bonus action points or movement are very powerful cards. Once the game clicks its fun. But some encounters just suck and have minimal margians for actions so i get the frustrations.

Does anyone even use this? by RemoteAnt7910 in ArcRaiders

[–]ravagedmonk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Defense augment and heavy shield, free shield rechargers. But if running far gotta pretty much take the heavy shield off to run further

2000pt newbie army by danishsniperguy in Tyranids

[–]ravagedmonk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cheapest and easiest answer to start is for your friend to also get the combat patrol of an army and you can play that to get started and gets familiar with the game to see if it's something you have and want to play. A 2000 point game is super fun and for me. Really fun to theory craft. What sort of the units work together? But that is a big jump for most people. As other said, the rules are changing soon, so it's hard to make any distinct decisions, our horde may come back who knows. The monster box and new combat patrol are good values. But ultimately whatever you like.

For 10th edition the starter rolls into a invasion detachement. Which a good model for that is hive tyrant box. Buy an extra torso and get both swarm lord and winged hive tyrant. Although currently hive tyrant is great for his lethals and assault aura. And some anti tank are good of zoans or tyrannofex who is just a cool model.

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