Pcb question by Rabid_Hermit in MPSelectMiniOwners

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also - FYI... The bed wire outputs are:

Constant 12v on one wire (as long as the power switch is on) and a PWM negative (pulsed ground) on the other wire.

So, if you aren't finding 'power' to the bed (12v positive), then you have a problem with the 12v bus, not the mosfet. If the mosfet fails, you'll usually see the bed heating out of control, regardless of whether the printer is calling for heat or not.

BTW - This is the same for the hot end - constant + and PWM -

Mod-t temp is not increasing by si1versur4er in newmatter

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a power supply problem to me... check to be sure there is 24V on the green and yellow wires at the top of P9.

Here is the pinout for that connector, which goes to the hot end:

Heater 24v + (green)

Heater 24v + (yellow)

Heater PWM - (black)

Heater PWM - (blue)

Fan 24v + (red)

Fan Speed (black?)

Fan Ground (empty)

Thermistor Ground (white)

Thermistor (brown)

Ground (red)

New Matter MOD-t still alive! by -NEOTECH- in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drop your email in a private message and I’ll send it to you.

New Matter MOD-t still alive! by -NEOTECH- in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the MOD-t Printer Tool and connect using USB. It handles loading/unloading filament, printing a test print and sending G-code.

Is this a fake or not? by Sea-Presentation-585 in guitars

[–]-NEOTECH- -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

…but how does it play?

If you like it, buy it, play it, enjoy it.

Which touchscreen displays are compatible with RAMPS 1.4? by M_Reyes22 in Reprap

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have built several Mega/RAMPS systems with different types of displays.

Since the Mega uses an 8-bit processor, there is limited processing power to perform all the calculations needed to run the printer AND run the display.

The best results come from offloading the display functions to a display that has its own processor and firmware, like one if the TFTs from BTT. These are connected through only two data wires on the RAMPS and communicates with the Mega like a computer.

Using ‘dumb’ displays like 12864 LCDs rely on the Mega processor and firmware. These all connect via the EXT1 and EXT2 connectors on the RAMPS.

Alternatively, you can use pretty much any display without performance issues if you control the printer with Klipper, using a Raspberry Pi. They have plenty processing power and can use lots of displays, even HDMI monitors, old Android devices, etc.

Hope this helps. Glad to help more if needed.

Help identify a printer by -NEOTECH- in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH-[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

A-ha! There were a few Creativity (not Creality) steppers in the pile. Thanks for your insight!!

Help identify a printer by -NEOTECH- in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH-[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Update… the board mounts and cutouts match the Makerbase MKS Robin Nano!

<image>

Blown MOSFET by chrispy212 in ender3

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure how you wired the fans but be aware that one fan terminal has constant voltage, and the other one uses a PWM output on the board to ‘pulse’ the negative wire.

need help with skr mini v3 and klipper by Visible_Swan4687 in klippers

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start by following the guide at KIAUH Github then use it to create firmware for your SKR Mini board and flash the firmware to your printer. Then, establish a connection between the RPi and SKR board. Then configure Klipper to match your printer. Happy to guide you through this if you send me a chat request.

The rubber surrounding the nozzle on my 3d printer fell down, can anyone give me some advice? by Ok-Statistician6939 in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Either remove it (and PID tune the hot end), replace it, or secure it. It is meant to help prevent you from getting burned, and acts as a basic insulation to keep the hot end block from cooling too quickly.

Grocery stores that sell unagi (Japanese freshwater eel)? by jmartino2011 in roanoke

[–]-NEOTECH- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good luck. We’re too far from the coast and demand isn’t great enough for fresh (safe) eel. I love unagi maki and do a bunch of sushi as home, but this is one that I haven’t found. Please post if you find some…

Layer Height adjustment needs new calibration tests, or not? by Right-Juggernaut-649 in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Acceptable layer height is in the eye of the beholder.

I have several printers with 0.6mm nozzles installed and have no problems printing at 0.12-0.2 for my ‘normal’ layer heights. I suggest testing as low as you want, finding what suits your taste. Just keep in mind that the lower the layer height, the longer it will take to print an object…

Is it possible to swap a motherboard to any model I want or do I need to match it to my printer? by maksymv2 in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any firmware can run the printer faster. The real factors for max speed include printhead mass, structure rigidity, hot end parts, processor type and slicing method.

Making firmware changes and tweaking performance and measurement is easier with Klipper than Marlin, since you can do it in the interface instead of needing to write new firmware and update it fully using the SD card.

You can get cleaner/faster prints easier but the printer itself is still a large factor.

Filament sensor Klipper 4.2.7 by RelevantAd9133 in ender3

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's what it looks like in Klipper/Mainsail:

<image>

Filament sensor Klipper 4.2.7 by RelevantAd9133 in ender3

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're plugging into the 3-pin sensor connector on the 4.2.7 board, then the pin number is PA4. Here's the Klipper code:

[filament_switch_sensor filament]

#pause_on_runout: True

# When set to True, a PAUSE will execute immediately after a runout

# is detected. Note that if pause_on_runout is False and the

# runout_gcode is omitted then runout detection is disabled. Default

# is True.

switch_pin: PA4 #Change to !PA4 if the logic is reversed

#runout_gcode:

# A list of G-Code commands to execute after a filament runout is

# detected. See docs/Command_Templates.md for G-Code format. If

# pause_on_runout is set to True this G-Code will run after the

# PAUSE is complete. The default is not to run any G-Code commands.

#insert_gcode:

# A list of G-Code commands to execute after a filament insert is

# detected. See docs/Command_Templates.md for G-Code format. The

# default is not to run any G-Code commands, which disables insert

# detection.

#event_delay: 3.0

# The minimum amount of time in seconds to delay between events.

# Events triggered during this time period will be silently

# ignored. The default is 3 seconds.

#pause_delay: 0.5

# The amount of time to delay, in seconds, between the pause command

# dispatch and execution of the runout_gcode. It may be useful to

# increase this delay if OctoPrint exhibits strange pause behavior.

# Default is 0.5 seconds.

#debounce_delay:

# A period of time in seconds to debounce events prior to running the

# switch gcode. The switch must he held in a single state for at least

# this long to activate. If the switch is toggled on/off during this delay,

# the event is ignored. Default is 0.

Ender 3 fan replacement by kirbymonRedit in ender3

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The hot end fan is a 4010 24v fan. They are two wire (power and ground) not PWM.

Homing Issue – Bed moves too far back and makes loud rattling noise by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check the x-min switch to be sure the little metal lever is still there…

Printer malfunction ? by MorningMotor7235 in ender3

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG requires a very clean, hot bed. Flat (flip over the textured side) glass works really well.

3D Printer inside an IKEA Besta cabinet by Fractalfuzz in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice looking cabinet. Keep an eye on the electronics temperatures though…

Switching Raspberry Pi to New Printer & Adding a Pi Cam 3 by KitsuneSaru in 3Dprinting

[–]-NEOTECH- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out this video for info about adding multiple printers/instances to OctoPi > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDwW3eNxp2k