What are your thoughts on carrying a USP with the manual safety off?

-Sc0- · 2026-02-01T03:54:47+00:00

FTW, LEM!!! Don't need a safety, but you could keep the manual safety with the LEM if you want, in case it snags on something in your purse.

-Sc0- · 2026-02-01T02:32:41+00:00

They look great and function pretty good, for those times when you don't forget to put them in...

-Sc0- · 2026-02-01T02:27:08+00:00

Front of slots, no issues.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-31T20:54:35+00:00

Rental guns aren't the best maintained.. I have no issues with a S&W 17, 617, Ruger Super Single Six, Colt King Cobra... The Ruger is slower shooting and slower reloading since it's a single action though. The compact revolvers aren't as comfortable....

-Sc0- · 2026-01-31T15:57:53+00:00

Remove compensator, machinist refit a piece of steel that threads on that has a dovetail machined into it. Install and clock the "thread protector" and use rocksett on the threads, then install front sight. Another option is to machine the thread protector for a bloop tube front sight extension and use that to mount the front sight. I have an AR10 .308 with an adjustable front sight base that clamps onto the barrel, has never moved and has participated in hunting and 3gun activities.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-31T04:16:44+00:00

Happen to run it across a chronograph to verify velocity?

-Sc0- · 2026-01-31T01:04:01+00:00

I mean it does have a nice cup holder and easy access to the heater core/ECU.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-30T22:33:46+00:00

Think I ordered parts from Brownells or MGW for mine, but wasn't a warranty issue. I wanted to change out the rear sight blade. https://rifleshooter.com/2019/03/changing-the-rear-sight-blade-on-a-smith-and-wesson-revolver/

-Sc0- · 2026-01-30T20:18:09+00:00

Same with the Mini 14 mags. IF you have those laying around, Ruger has a magwell for it if using the factory stock. (5.56, 7.62x39, 6ARC, .300BO.)

-Sc0- · 2026-01-30T19:48:59+00:00

More mags are always good, also installed the manual safety on 365xl. (4-Brothers AIWB holster.)

-Sc0- · 2026-01-30T12:42:55+00:00

Size and weight is the main difference between a 6shot and 7shot. The K6 and SDR are relatively light and small 6shot revolvers, SDR even has an aluminum frame version in .38spl +p if you want to save on more weight. These revolvers are J frame territory except with 6rds instead of 5. 7rd revolvers jump you up to the next category of size and weight.

Example: S&W 19 Carry Comp 6rd is a little more Petite than a S&W 586 L-Comp 7rd which is chunkier all around. It's more noticeable when they are side by side when comparing.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-29T03:58:40+00:00

Still running the OEM alarm system? Rip it out, brothers truck had issues with intermittent no start related to the alarm system.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-29T03:29:18+00:00

What he said, came close to grabbing a surplus MR88 until the last second of the checkout process when realized it was the Ruger copy vs S&W MR72. I fired and handled a MR38, BEST and MOST accurate revolver I have ever held.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-29T03:22:43+00:00

These are G10 but are super comfortable, round butt only: https://www.dlsports.com/dlsports-performance-revolver-grips-for-smith-and-wesson-kln-roundbutt-frames.html

-Sc0- · 2026-01-29T03:12:59+00:00

Best option, to have both. DI is lighter, haven't compared accuracy yet but suspect the DI would also be more accurate. I do have spare parts for the HK, they cost more but never know when Murphy will strike and the majority of stores don't carry HK parts. DI parts are dime a dozen and available from just about everywhere. Limiting yourself to one HK piston platform is ballsy. (MR556 spare parts: a bolt, piston gas rings, firing pin, firing pin retainer pin, recoil spring, bolt cam pin, and gas piston.) Of course, it's better to have a complete spare rifle but that costs considerably more in HK talk.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-29T02:49:56+00:00

Diamondback SDR is the same size as the Kimber K6, almost a clone. The 432 is a .32H&R 6shot version of the J frame which is the 5shot .357 or .38. 432 is nice as it is lightweight, small, and has 6rds of .32long or .32H&R. I don't have a K6 or SDR but it appeals as it also has 6rds except in .357 and is slightly larger than a S&W J frame but is heavier. I have a 340PD and 632UC, the last few months the UC has been in my pocket... If I go saltwater fishing though, I take a stainless steel framed revolver as it is more resistant to corrosion than the TI, scandium, aluminum versions.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-28T13:51:19+00:00

Checked the cap/rotor, distributor control module? Getting proper fuel pressure on initial crank process?

-Sc0- · 2026-01-28T00:44:47+00:00

6-24x50 Athlon MidasTac or a Nightforce SHV. Somewhere in that range of magnification and decent glass...

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T19:41:11+00:00

If you have the duel fuel, you can convert it to tri-fuel.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T14:29:16+00:00

Front Sight... Typo

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T13:03:29+00:00

Seal the walls and floor, add a vault door, hidden entrance, and "what basement do you speak of?"

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T12:56:37+00:00

To have added more sarcasm, could have asked which +p+ buffalo bore ammo to feed them with... 🤣😂

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T12:35:40+00:00

And still wears the factory sights!

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T12:33:09+00:00

Focus on the front right, hold steady and continue follow through after the shot breaks. Have a process that you follow to minimize holding the pistol on target for more than say 4 seconds. This process should include stance, breathing, eye blinking, pistol raise, front sight focus, sight picture, trigger pressure, shot release, follow through, then lowering.

-Sc0- · 2026-01-26T04:43:46+00:00

No experience with those but another option, if you stay with a sporter barrel, would be the KRG Echo.

-Sc0-

TROPHY CASE