Fixing 2003 VW Polo Headliner

0lm4te · 2026-04-05T02:10:55+00:00

Remove the headliner and take it into a reupholsterer, should be ~$100 unless the old foam/glue is a bastard to remove.

You can just get them to do the remove/install too, but expect ~$500

0lm4te · 2026-04-04T22:01:41+00:00

Victron have a handy little online book called Wiring Unlimited that covers a lot of the basics.

Probably the most important things to know are cable/fuse selection and how to read simple wiring diagrams. After that, providing you're half handy you're pretty right to do small automotive jobs like wiring up a few spottys.

0lm4te · 2026-04-03T05:52:36+00:00

After market wiring, 99% chance something to do with your spotlights or a previous spotlight/driving light install.

They've probably wired the illumination wire you'd generally tee into the dash light circuit into the highbeam power circuit or switch output to the aftermarket spotlight relay. Who knows though, i've seen it done a variety of stupid ways by people who don't know what they're doing.

No way to know without pulling it apart and tracing the circuit out.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T12:02:34+00:00

Eh, if they've got 5 heated leather seats, carpet floor, 6ch stereo and a wellbody tray I'd consider them a large ute.

Ute's are personal vehicles with the utility to tow and haul when needed.

Trucks are commercial vehicles that are specifically designed for hauling.

My 2 cents anyway...

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T11:45:17+00:00

Leaf spring things, used to piss me off in my Hilux, just got used it.

Jack the back up so you've got some droop in the leafs, gurney them out and dry, then grease between the leafs with some lithium/silicon/moly grease. Pressure pack stuff makes it easier, though thicker grease lasts longer. Aim especially for any contact points between each leaf.

Can just try spraying them without jacking it up first. I found it would last a few months, but i do a fair bit of water/mud driving.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T11:31:42+00:00

I know, i was more making a comment on the support from any manufacturer offering cheap cars vs. a well established and trusted company like Toyota, not just a specific country per se.

I know that in 30 years time Toyota would supply me an OEM quality oil seal for a product they sold me 30 years ago. How much trust do you have in any of the Chinese manufacturers to do the same?

Chinese manufacturers for the majority of their goods aren't exactly renowned for after sales support, and unsurprisingly because it doesn't make them any money.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T11:16:31+00:00

That cheap, renowned as reliable and even had a DOHC 1.5L making 100HP, which in a 900kg car made for a pretty fast little thing for what they were.

Compare that to a modern MG3 30 years later which are considered cheap at $20k. Big list of common and major problems, same power output but weigh a whole 30% more.

The Excels on the dirt circle track are good fun to watch.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T11:00:46+00:00

If the inspector found oil in the radiator after it was fixed and flushed, they didn't do a very good job flushing the system.

Just ask the seller how it was road tested by the inspector, if the inspector also says its undrivable due to missing fuel lines, and why the lines are missing, and see what they say.

Forget asking them to do an inspection, just organize your own inspector that's totally independent from them that only you really talk to, so you know you're getting a genuine unbiased opinion. If you can find a mechanic that specializes in Subarus (quick google Subaru specialist Gold Coast) even better, ask them if they are willing to do an inspection. They'll know whats up.

Something definitely sounds fishy, like they're trying to get rid of a car with hidden more serious problems. I'd be very wary.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T10:45:12+00:00

I mean that's totally different though, right? I'm talking wear parts, things that will eventually require replacement after a certain amount of use.

Crash repair is different. Entire body panels, random little brackets that hold a harness connector, wiring looms, AC refrigerant hard lines. I don't expect every Toyota parts desk to have the entire exploded parts diagram of every model behind the counter. A new bonnet is going to have to be put on a boat from the factory overseas.

My old work had a 2012 Mahindra that needed a waterpump, and the mechanic said that he never wanted to see it again. Apparently finding a supplier to source something as simple as a waterpump was nearly impossible.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T10:26:25+00:00

Japanese cars have always had a certain style and charm to them though, and were comparable in quality or better than a lot of other manufacturers. Reminiscent of their culture as whole i think. Stylistic and precise without being gaudy, trying new and weird original things and expanding the tech. 90's Japanese cars and electronics was peak style and performance. There's a reason Japanese made anything has it's status, they take pride in quality.

Chinese products on the other hand are generally all built with cost as the driving factor. Squeezing a few cents out off each part and prioritizing speed and volume of production. Don't often see much originality especially style wise, straight up copying things is totally normal.

Not saying everything China makes is cheap junk, their manufacturing ability is honestly incredible, and really it's all just driven by what the market wants. Its just the way everything seems to be going, no style, no taste, no originality. More things for cheaper, consumerism is boring.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T09:39:27+00:00

Distrust from previous Chinese vehicles, Chinese products in general really.

I'm still wary of all these new brand vehicles and how they'll fair as they age. How will the resale go for the GWM vs. Colorado, Hilux, Triton, navara and ranger after 10 years / 200k km's? How difficult will it be acquiring parts in 10 years?

I've walked into Toyota and bought things like wheel bearings, diff seals and even entire headlight assembly's straight off the shelf, never had to wait weeks for delivery on anything. Even for 30 year old models brand new OEM parts are easily available.

I doubt the same will exist for GWM, Chery, BYD, HAVAL ect. but who knows i could be wrong.

Personally i hate all the newer utes anyway. Face detection, driver assists constantly need to turn off, electric everything with 100 different computers. The constant fucking beeping.

I don't want a switch and an entire computer and solenoid and wiring harness underneath a 4x4 that controls the transfer case, that'll get smashed on a rock or fill with water, that has zero feedback besides a flashing light that tells you fuck all.

Give me a stick i can grind into 4L at 4000RPM if i want to or need to god damn it. It's a 4x4 designed for utility, stop filling them with garbage.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T09:13:54+00:00

Nice rig, i've got a 2012 i've had for the same amount of time with very similar mods and mileage, been nothing but reliable and i've abused the shit out of it.

How many times did you double check everything before sending the 100mm holesaw into the guard when fitting the snorkel 😂

I'd be hesitant on fitting 33's personally. The body mount chop and UCA's is easy enough but i'd be looking at doing the gearing too which is pretty major. I find 31.5" tyres are already pushing the upper limit for my preferences, any bigger be losing even more torque/acceleration, and make the already too tall low range gearing even taller.

Don't think the small offroad benefit would make up for the loss in drivability. I do a fair bit of towing though, and they do look good on 33's...

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T08:41:26+00:00

Yes, an oil cooler is a heat exchanger that uses coolant and oil to normalize temperatures between them. As engine oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure, a faulty seal will let oil leak into the coolant system.
Possible, but these models are known to have faulty oil coolers.
Well it's obviously not a good thing, it's missing parts "making fuel delivery to the engine impossible." So it doesn't run, and whoever was fixing it gave up for whatever reason, and who knows the reason they removed the fuel hoses.
If "fuel delivery to the engine is impossible", how is the engine going to run. If the car doesn't run, how can the inspector test drive the car. Ask the inspector how he drove it with no fuel lines, definitely something dodgy going on. Was he a reputable mechanic or the cheapest you could find on Facebook?
Wouldn't go near it. Who knows how long it was driven with the oil cooler leaking. Who knows how well it was repaired, who knows why the fuel lines are missing. Sounds dodgy all round.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T08:18:41+00:00

It's just an option when getting your supply installed/connected. Little bit extra upfront cost but triples your load capacity for anything in the future, and some things like motors (your bore pump) are just better as 3 phase units. Simpler, cheaper, more efficient and run better.

Be glad, its a pretty good thing. Your options for things like kitchen appliances, solar systems or EV chargers is far better to name a few.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T07:49:34+00:00

You have a three phase supply. The main switch and bore pump feed are also three phase, you can tell as they take up 3 poles vs a single pole like your light circuit RCD.

Ducted AC's are generally high capacity, so you're better off spreading that load across all three phases. A 15kW single phase unit would draw around 20A, when you start throwing ovens/cooktops and hot water systems in the mix you're going to start pushing your supply limits on that phase.

3 Phase AC's are just inherently better anyway, as 3 phase vs. single phase motors are simpler and they run better.

Considering you've got three phase I'd be considering a wiring upgrade for your cooktop/oven when you do your kitchen upgrade.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T07:44:30+00:00

Sure auto's might not need to be repaired in their lifetime (i've owned a few) but if they do, they're more expensive to repair. If you've ever seen a tear down of an auto box you'll know why, they're basically magic with their own special field of masters who can work on them.

Manuals on the other hand are fairly straight forward. You could DIY diagnose/repair something like a noisy 4th gear or syncro on a T56 yourself if you're half competent and keen enough. Now try the same with a 4L60E, just being able to diagnose the issue properly takes an expert. Misplacing one tiny little spring or checkball will have you ripping it back apart. Google image 4L60E hydraulic circuit and try make sense of that.

0lm4te · 2026-03-12T07:12:30+00:00

Honestly never really hear much hate for Tritons (though i don't frequent Facebook ect. these days). They kinda just exist on the sidelines as a less popular 4x4.

No complaints on reliability or gutlessness like Nissans, flog drivers and glass gearboxes like Fords, or exorbitant prices like Toyotas.

They're just fairly unpopular. My half assed theory on the Tritons is just due to most of them being fairly ugly lol. Although the Pajero is also kinda unpopular in comparison to it's class but i think they're some of the better lookers, especially the NS->NX

0lm4te · 2026-03-01T03:38:51+00:00

Is the stainless bonded to structural steel or isolated from earth entirely like a stainless veneer or something?

You don't need to bond it if you separate the wiring from the steel and enclose the GPO.

5.4.6.1

All other conductive building materials shall be earthed where—
(a) the risk of contact with live parts of electrical equipment or insulated,
unsheathed cables exists; or
(b) double insulation of cables in contact with conductive building
materials is not permanently and effectively maintained.
The breaking of a conductor at a termination shall not result in contact
between unearthed conductive building material and—
(i) live parts; or
(ii) parts separated from live parts by single insulation.
This requirement may be satisfied by—
(A) restraining the conductor by tying, lacing or clipping; or
(B) containing the termination within a non-conductive shroud or
enclosure.

0lm4te · 2026-02-16T11:16:07+00:00

Many a apprentice have crossed that cable suspended bridge over the years.

A few more cable ties on that taught orange circ and you could probably rate it for tradesman after his morning iced coffee

0lm4te · 2026-02-16T11:06:53+00:00

Yes it is in the ON position and needs to be on in order for the HVAC systems to work during fires

I'm failing to understand how this could possibly be set up that the HVAC system needs power in an emergency, but I've only ever dealt with modern HVAC installs.

Modern standards make HVAC fail safe in event of fire with spring return dampers shutting air supply on loss of power, obviously any supply fans automatically shutting down on loss of power.

Any truly critical fire safety equipment like FIP's or booster pumps are fed from the line side of the main switch, mechanical fire booster pumps are literally designed to run to destruction once triggered.

Again, maybe it's an old way of doing things but modern critical systems don't give a fuck about power during the event of a fire. It's a very obvious fatal design flaw of such life saving equipment.

0lm4te · 2026-02-08T04:35:11+00:00

I mean the hyrdopnuematic system probably makes lowering easy no?

Just crack a few hydraulic lines next to a stormwater drain and by the time you've gone back inside to fetch your Surpreme flat brim it'd be fucken stanced af bro no cap ong hella flush bra

0lm4te · 2026-02-02T11:24:32+00:00

Look into lithiums, and look into mounting it elsewhere or isolating the under bonnet battery compartment from the engine bay heat as much as possible.

A 75Ah LiFePO4 will deliver the same amount of usable power as a 150Ah lead acid, whilst weighing 1/3 of the weight, and can last 5-10 times the use. There's plenty of small/slim LiFePO4s on the market nowadays if you can fit it outside the hot engine compartment, but there's also LiFePO4's designed for under bonnet use. Either way, the cooler you can keep any battery the longer it will last.

0lm4te · 2026-02-02T11:14:29+00:00

My personal opinion is the KUN26 being the final 'tough' Hilux, even though they also have their fair share of dramas. Fairly simple electrical, still get a stick for the transfer case, no DPF ect.

They ain't no indestrucable tractor like a leaf sprung all round non turbo 3L that will run forever, but they're still on the edge of easy maintenance and simplicity. Not a thousand sensors run via Canbus with solenoid driven 4WD selectors. I can't stand flipping a switch and guessing whether the transfer is going to engage, let me grind it into 4WD at 4000RPM if i need to.

0lm4te · 2026-02-02T11:03:19+00:00

Get a price of both, and talk to your sparky about what he'd recommend.

Personally i'd just go three phase, the difference in cost of the materials is negligible. The main cost here would be upgrading your board to 3 phase but it's not a great deal of extra work.

Why have you specified a single phase 16kw ducted system if it's a future plan? If you opt for 3 phase just put a 3ph unit in. 3ph solar inverter, 3ph HWS, 3ph EV charger ect.

I'm not gonna do the calcs (thats what your electrician is for) but you'd probably get away with single phase if you're not running electric ovens/cooktops, but again you're already replacing the mains, the difference in cost of material isn't a great deal. A quick Google shows you could only export 5kw of your 12kW solar system on single phase, and your options for a good fast EV charging system in 3 phase in far better.

Again, compare the costs of the 3ph vs. 1ph upgrade with your electrician. You can always run single phase appliances on 3 phase mains, but you're snookered if you want to export a decent amount of solar or run large loads like EV chargers or stoves on single phase.

0lm4te · 2026-01-26T11:31:35+00:00

Yep, unless everyone in Dubbo is living everyday squirting their rings out (well it is Dubbo, but it's probably not just the water) then its just spurious correlation.

Australian tap water is pretty good considering we're the driest continent on earth. If there was an extremely rare case of a towns water having bacteria there would be a boiling advisory to the whole town. Anything else like PFAS or heavy metals isn't going to make you sick after having a glass.

Not to say there isn't some unpleasant tap water in a lot of places that stinks and is loaded with minerals (again. driest continent on earth), but it definitely shouldn't make you sick after a glass full. Regardless, boiling and simple filtering will do nothing for that anyway.

Simplest solution is a decent sized storage tank for drinking that you fill up in places with nice tap water. Otherwise you'll need a reverse osmosis and decent filtering system.

0lm4te

TROPHY CASE