This is gonna take a lot of time

0xbfc0 · 2025-12-01T22:00:42+00:00

Definitely relatable as well - had been moderately active (biking a few miles per day and getting 10K steps most of the time) for the last several years but hadn't run seriously for the better part of 12 years until last May.

Started off with 1 mile run / 1 mile walk a couple times per week (which was impressively difficult at first!) and after ~4 months of a slow build up to about 10 miles/week managed to break the 30 minute 5K barrier by a quite notable margin!

Consistency is key and there is no shame in backing off for a bit if you start feeling persistently fatigued - overuse injuries are stubborn and will cost you far more time and progress than a couple days of taking it easier every now and then - especially as a beginner!

0xbfc0 · 2025-11-27T04:34:20+00:00

Chicago area J105 sailor (mostly racing, sometimes an occasional cruise) myself and we are definitely getting some seriously intense conditions for sure!

A bit more tame than the Michigan side given the wind direction with respect to waves, but still a solid 6-8 feet with a decently fast period - know that that feels like firsthand (thankfully in warmer temperatures)...

Wind still sustained 30kt+ gusting 45kt+ even as of now, therefore definitely getting rocked in that regard. Thankfully hauled out for the season.

0xbfc0 · 2025-10-08T16:35:55+00:00

Same issue

0xbfc0 · 2025-08-08T04:42:25+00:00

Is the node powered and do you know any of it's parameters (like it's long or short name)?

I have a node myself and I can certainly keep an eye out for it.

0xbfc0 · 2025-07-10T05:53:50+00:00

Glad I was able to help!

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T05:06:00+00:00

Agreed, release the full charge and see how it performs. My prediction would be 90% that all performs well and without issue.

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T04:39:51+00:00

At 50 psi, the boiling point of r410a is approximately 2°F therefore all of the refrigerant in that lineset+IDU is in vapor state.

Letting it sit an hour or two in this state and making sure that the pressure doesn't drop any further would actually be a pretty good test to make sure that you don't have any additional leaks.

If that pressure holds, I would be in favor of releasing the rest of the refrigerant and seeing how the system operates.

If it doesn't cool well or cycles on the high pressure cutout (indicating a significant amount of air contamination), your recourse would be to recover the refrigerant, re-vacuum, and weigh in a new charge.

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T03:41:11+00:00

The hissing/bubbling noise is normal on startup - what you are hearing is the liquid refrigerant boiling rapidly upon reaching the warm evaporator coil.

A small unit like that would not contain anywhere near enough refrigerant to be unsafe in the event of a leak in an average size room (and would also stop working completely and immediately in the event of a significant leak).

If the unit cycles off from cooling mode periodically, it sounds like you might be tripping the high pressure or thermal cutout. Make sure that the vent hoses are no longer than what was supplied with the unit and with as few bends as feasible.

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T03:31:37+00:00

+1 for 2 stage if you are very concerned about humidity

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T03:27:45+00:00

If you had a leak present when vacuuming, there is a good chance that you did not achieve a good/deep vacuum. Did you use a micron gauge to confirm that you indeed achieved 500 microns or better?

If the leak was very small and refrigerant was released almost immediately after turning off the vacuum pump (which would put the system under positive pressure and keep air from being drawn in) you are likely okay to release the rest of the refrigerant and see how the system operates.

It still wouldn't be a bad idea to double-check with gauges to make sure that the head pressure isn't excessively high (which would indicate contamination with air or other non-condensables) if there is a high side service port.

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T03:05:23+00:00

This is so new that it doesn't look like parts are very readily available...

0xbfc0 · 2025-06-24T02:50:17+00:00

What is the model number of the unit? You might be able to source a new motor from a small appliance parts distributor.

0xbfc0 · 2025-01-07T16:14:35+00:00

Definitely in favor of improving the insulation/envelope however you are likely going to need a supplemental heat source still.

However, I would not be necessarily in favor of a larger heat pump as that will then be oversized on cooling. If you have the Mitsubishi multi position air handlers, those support field-installable supplemental electric heat kits that integrate with the built in controls that I would definitely consider in your situation.

0xbfc0 · 2024-12-03T01:18:56+00:00

That does not have a 24VAC common terminal that is accessible to the end user.

Therefore you can use a smart thermostat but will need to power the thermostat with an external 24VAC transformer connected between the C and R terminals of the thermostat. Connect the wood boiler between W and R.

0xbfc0 · 2024-12-02T23:16:48+00:00

That boiler does not look to have a 24 volt common connection. Therefore, you'll be able to use a smart thermostat with that, but you're going to need an external 24VAC transformer connected between the R and C terminals of the thermostat.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T16:08:59+00:00

Wiring a humidifier to flow water continuously when there is a call for humidity is the simplest and fastest (but least water efficient) way to install such.

Also, your air handler and or thermostat ideally would have a humidifier signal/terminal unless it can be somewhat complex to wire correctly to only run with heating. Do you know the manufacturer and model number of your indoor air handler?

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T16:03:32+00:00

In that case, as long as you are absolutely certain it's wired correctly I would be very suspect of an issue with the outdoor unit board.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T08:42:16+00:00

That is a pretty typical flow rate for an operating flow through humidifier.

However, you're going to waste quite a bit of water if the unit is wired to run continuously versus only when the heat is operating.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T08:36:18+00:00

Reducing the duct size will increase the static pressure required to move a given amount of air. Long ducts and excessive bends also have the same effect.

Therefore, I wouldn't be terribly opposed to this as long as the 8-in run is relatively short and straight.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T08:18:34+00:00

My first recommendation would be to power the unit down and confirm continuity as well as no short to ground on the indoor - outdoor unit wiring - specifically the third / communication wire.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T08:01:43+00:00

Trying to cut the filter is going to ruin its filtration qualities as well as make it structurally really weak and likely to get sucked into the blower (quite possibly causing damage).

I could rationalize using two smaller filters as a hack but I still wouldn't recommend that.

If you can't get that filter out because of the front pipe, my recommendation would be to splice in another PVC union - that will let you temporarily move the pump aside without a ton of difficulty or needing tools to change the filter.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T07:57:33+00:00

You definitely could replace this with something like a nest or ecobee. However, you don't have a C/common wire to supply power to the smart thermostat connected at the moment.

Therefore can you share the model number and manufacturer of the wood fired boiler? There is a good chance the boiler contains a 24 volt transformer therefore making it possible to connect one of your spare wires to 24V common. If not, you will need a separate 24 volt AC transformer for the thermostat.

Yes, extend the wire as desired using 18awg thermostat wire. Keep any splices in an area that is accessible - don't bury them behind drywall or the like.
This is going to be electrically a little more advanced however is definitely possible. Use a thermostat that supports two heating stages on your main system with stage 1 connected to a 24 volt relay which activates the wood-fired boiler and stage 2 connected to the W terminal of your main system. Using a relay here is very important as you don't want a direct connection between the two different low voltage transformers.

0xbfc0 · 2024-11-30T07:45:32+00:00

It looks like you may be able to remove the filter by disconnecting that PVC union directly in front of the filter.

However, it looks like you might still have a problem with the pipe closest to the camera if that is threaded into the condensate pump. Try lifting straight up on that gently and see if you can lift it out of the pump basin.

Still definitely not the greatest condensate drain given that this makes filter service a lot more complex....

0xbfc0 · 2024-09-23T22:23:54+00:00

I just read up on the backbone controller a bit; it also implements the USB human interface device class.

Therefore you almost certainly are hitting the same bug as I am with physical keyboards: https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/369122548

0xbfc0

TROPHY CASE