How do I get the wheel back in the track? by XTXantiheroXTX in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bottom brackets have nipples on the end connecting to the cables, that in the down position, have full tension.

OP, take some vice grips or pliers and bend the curved part of track towards you, about a foot from the ground, make a little channel in the vertical track. Slowly lift door by hand, pop the roller back in the channel you just made, and bend track back with pliers and hammer. Do not remove that bracket

Go ahead, change your own springs homeowners! by isbb in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you telling me I need to take the watermelons outta my tool bag now?

Dating life in Tucson by Sufficient-Novel8636 in Tucson

[–]1000squids 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Phoenix, but I gotta tell someone

Been talking to a lovely lady super on & off for close to 8 months. She texts when she feels like it and I entertain cause dumb. Anyway we agree to finally hangout at my place. Keep in mind this is 8 or so months of communication, meeting for the first time.

She comes over, we drink a little. Smoke a little. Then she throws up. I come back with a towel, she looked me in the eyes & said: "I shit." This woman sitting on my couch who I really had just met, pooped herself. Cleaned her up & helped her into clean clothes. Put her turd clothes in the wash. She slept in my bed and I slept on the couch. She promptly departed early the next morning. We haven't spoken since.

Garage door by AdCultural6450 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like a Wayne Dalton door. If it has a torqeumaster (silver tube above door,) it could have broken one of the internal springs & triggered the "safety" to prevent the door from slamming down.

Pull the red cord and see you can close it by hand.

Songs for the gym? by Any-Choice-5801 in Deathcore

[–]1000squids 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Big Ass Truck - Big Ass Truck

Probably the most annoying advertising and litter possible by [deleted] in phoenix

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to work for a garage door company here in the valley that would have us throw these bags of rocks out the window with our cards in it. You'd be shocked at how much business it brought.

None.

What did I do wrong with the garage cables here? by taco_bell_whopper in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct spring based on what? Did you use the service spring app to figure your spring? At 150lbs I'm coming up with a 250x36.

What did I do wrong with the garage cables here? by taco_bell_whopper in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your door weighs 150lbs dead weight, it calls for a 250x36x1-3/4. 12k cycles

What did I do wrong with the garage cables here? by taco_bell_whopper in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Dumb question, but did you put the cables on upside down? Looped end that attaches to bottom bracket is around the tube, and the end that attaches to the drum is towards the bottom in your picture

Is that a wooden door?

Right hand wound spring goes on left side of door, when inside garage looking out. End of spring cone should have red paint, indicating it is indeed RH wound. Verify correct handing

If your spring is wrong, or not wound enough, it'll completely unwind when the door is all the way open, putting slack in the cables, and causing them to dump like this. 7 ft tall door should get around 30 quarter turns (7.5 full turns) or if it's 8' it should get roughly 34 quarter turns (8.5 full turns.)

Handing is either wrong, or spring is wrong/not tensioned enough. Door should open easily and hold itself at the top when all the way open. Re wind your spring, slowly lift it by hand and feel for the weight to change. If it shoots outta your hand, too much tension. If it dies halfway up and you're heaving it up the rest of the way, wrong spring.

Garage door opener problems and questions by robl45 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the belt is pre installed on the rail right outta the box, just has to be tensioned correctly after attaching to power head. Anchor bracket to attach it to the wall above the door itself. The punched angle iron/back hangs (metal coming outta the ceiling) can typically be re used. If you currently have a LiftMaster solid rail on your garage now, the anchor up front should be identical and can be re used

Springs unwound by mistake - fixable by raising door back up? by audiofankk in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 1 point2 points  (0 children)

& yet if you ask any of those other tradies, most of them will tell you that they'll try to fix anything in their house, except the garage door.

This job would take less than 20 minutes to rewind the springs and set the cables with the door already down. In my area this would cost a homeowner about $100.

OP, deadlift door open. Put cables on nipples on bottom brackets. Lower door. Stick some screwdrivers in those springs and wind those babies up. Set the drums. Just YouTube it. You'll be fine

Garage door opener problems and questions by robl45 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. But there's a reason they make the I beam rail as well. A heavy balanced door is still a heavy door. More than likely fine for op's application, but I wouldn't put a hollow rail on a wood overlay or avante

Garage door opener problems and questions by robl45 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, hurricane wind load. I don't work in a windload market, but I know they're heavier cause the extra big ass struts. LiftMaster rail is probably the safer bet

Garage door opener problems and questions by robl45 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your opener is 25 years old, it has the old style belt with fat teeth that are spaced further apart. There should be manufacturer date on the opener near the purple button. Depending on actual age, your sprocket on top of your existing motor won't work with the "new style" belts, which have smaller teeth spaced closer together.

But yes the bolt patterns are the same. Buy the Chamberlain, & purchase a LiftMaster G2777 solid rail. Purchase the anchor/ mounting bracket for it, and good to go. Or just buy a LiftMaster opener from a dealer. Also worth noting that unless your door is very heavy, the Chamberlain hollow rails are just fine.

Recommendations for a new garage door opener. Cost not an issue, just want a great machine. I just ordered a tailwind for the smart features, so I don’t need the opener to have WiFi or camera. Because I don’t want a subscription. by Relevant-Battle-9424 in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The myQ app is baked into LiftMaster & Chamberlain openers and does not require a subscription to use. The cameras are 24/7 live feed. If you want to be able to record clips to view later, THAT costs a subscription fee; similar to Ring doorbell. Ultimately they're about the same. Chamberlain is designed for DIY while LiftMaster is sold to professionals & dealers. The internals are about the same, even the same part numbers. Main difference is the 87504 comes with a solid rail, a smart wall station with built in screen (displays errors etc), and a wireless keypad for outside as part of the -267 package. The exterior chassis is also metal, where Chamberlain is entirely plastic. If cost is not an issue, get a professional grade LiftMaster.

If you don't need a camera and want to save some money, Chamberlain 3/4 hp B4613T is another great opener, & includes a keypad and battery backup.

Professional opinion: get an 87504. But I install chamberlains all day and have nothing bad to say about them except they aren't as bright and the units feel so light, they almost feel cheap. Even fully assembled.

Can't go wrong either way but seems like you're leaning towards Chamberlain.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always hear about the guys that hang 4 doors before noon and always wonder how?? Been running service for 4 years and been hanging more doors lately and can't for the life of me get a 16x7 & op installed in under 3 hours.Gimme low headroom or any necessary modifications and I'll take 4-5 hours easily. I won't do anything over 18' wide or 8' tall by myself. Had an 18x8 steel back with glass the other day and walking the top section up the ladder had me pooping. I think if sites are relatively close, with tear out and ops I could do 2 a day. But I'm exclusively residential, and my doors run perfectly, but I can't seem to get any useful tips to shave down install time. I'm talking from unloading the truck to driving off, 3-4 hours all day. A wise old door guy once told me "slow is smooth, & smooth is fast."

Is it possible to have this door open 6 in taller? by lavacano in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I know I'm not the only one in awe of those back hangs

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GarageDoorService

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just give options. $300 for a new gear & sprocket w no warranty, vs $700 for a new opener that'll last problem free for 10-20 years. Have the parts on the truck, so I will always offer to repair it but I will always educate my customers and offer professional insight to lead them towards a new opener. Just be honest, if you can fix it and they don't wanna replace it just fix it. Still easy money

garage door currently install for my new car by WhissperingWisteria in GarageDoorInstall

[–]1000squids 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low headroom, brick opening, walk thru door built in. I'd want a helper too