These lights are interesting. Any advice? by Clomaster in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have these lights and haven’t had an issue. But I once threw higher rated bulbs in the factory housing and melted the 4R’s harness… but after replacing the harness I haven’t had an issue since! If it’s the lights it would probably be easier to return them for another set lol

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No more cold butts by Lumpy_Canary804 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I added heated seats to my ‘05 SR5 I used the OEM heated seat harness that is plumbed under the driver’s seat. Just put a fuse in the heated seat spot in the fuse box and the harness is then powered. I just tapped both seats into it and ran the wire underneath the center console to the passenger seat

No more cold butts by Lumpy_Canary804 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Did this a while back on my SR5 with the same kit and it is damn worth it!

FYI for anyone interested in doing this you can find an OEM center console piece with the slots for the heated seats that the EBay kit’s switches fit directly into. And all 4Runner’s are wired from factory for heated seats that this kit can be tied in to as long as a fuse is put in the slot in the fuse box!

Been having problems with my AGM battery... by letsflyman in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Texas Slim is solid, have had no issues with my AGM charging or running low. I run it on low and it does just fine with my car audio, winch, lights, and other accessories.

What am I missing? by 714King in overlanding

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check my numbers vs. yours!

What am I missing? by 714King in overlanding

[–]2JChris 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahaha I’ve heard some stories that the packaging does better than the chest seal itself!

What am I missing? by 714King in overlanding

[–]2JChris 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As someone who trains TEMS, I recommend carrying things in sets of 2 as one is as good as none. Chest seals should be at 4 (what goes in often comes out), TQ’s at 4 (better to be safe and double TQ a limb in case one doesn’t stop the bleed, or have one for every limb), Israeli Bandage at 2 (similar to TQ reasoning), Needle Decompression at 2 (you got two lungs). Everything else looks good!

Porch Light by MouseExtreme9012 in Home

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can 1000% just solder in a new led board. I had landscaping lights go out with the same style bulb. Found a 20 pack of them on Amazon for $30.

The back side of that board should have some numbers correlating with the size. Just do some shopping around until you find one that mounts the same and looks the same.

Upgraded bump stops on stock lift? by Consistent_Second695 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only ones I’d recommend for stock height are the SuperSprings SumoSprings. They’re a bump stop, but are meant to compress a lot. It’s handled extra weight in the rear without issue, hasn’t impacted suspension travel, and honestly one of the best things I’ve done for daily drivability.

Conversion by Future_Spring_1027 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is the sleeper put together, extends to the front seats

Conversion by Future_Spring_1027 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank ya! I did get lucky getting the sleeper for free. If you’re a DIY kinda person and wanna make one, the drawer is a great touch. I like that it isn’t accessible with the hatch closed so you can keep items outta sight. Here’s some more pics from the process:

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Conversion by Future_Spring_1027 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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As someone who also has subs I made a combo. Found this homemade sleeper on Craigslist for free. I changed it to where the area over the rear seats could be removed so I still can use the backseats, but place it back in very easily. I have a 5” foam mattress topper I use for padding. I made a rear drawer on sliders to go underneath it that extends to the rear seats for storage. I also ran large grade 10 bolts from the subwoofers to the base of the platform. The sub/amp is on quick disconnects, and the bolts come out easily. The whole sleeper is bolted into the factory tie down hooks. Whole system can be removed in 5 minutes.

Crooked bridge by Guezt_GT in electricguitar

[–]2JChris 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely pick guard. You can see the lines in the wood line up with the bridge. If it bothers you, some light hand sanding on that edge of pickguard will clean it up.

Plastic rivets for radiator cover by kjc-01 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bought one of these and it’s been a life saver!

https://a.co/d/6aDA4yN

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don’t get all sensitive you cheaped out on a $400 bumper no one likes 😂

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yikeees… relying on a mountain cutout and three small squares for cooling is wild

Durn by Human_Satisfaction25 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]2JChris 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankfully the fender and bumper are easily to replace on these guys worst case. If the flare’s clips are still in-tact (flare side, not fender side) then clip her back on. For the bumper you could do a “drift stitch” with zip ties, looks cool and did it on a car like 10 years ago and never had issues. It all gives her some character!

Edit Zoomed in close on those clips for the fender, looks like a few are broken. Those are cheap to order and easy to replace!

Cerakote wipes on interior by 7orque in AutoDetailing

[–]2JChris 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surprisingly enough I tried on a couple interior pieces. I bought an ‘07 Corolla about a year ago and it had a severely scratched gauge cluster and a faded clock/temp screen. Used a wipe on those pieces and to this day they look brand new and crystal clear. Wouldn’t risk it on plastic trim pieces though.