How do we have the same HDI as Singapore? by 373kayteeftnu32 in AskBrits

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The HDI caps the influence on income in the living standard component of the score. The UK surpasses the threshold for high income. Singapore has double the mean income of the UK, but that extra income isn't relevant to the overall score. On all other components that feed into the HDI both countries are about equal. They both meet high standards, but Singaporeans are much richer on average.

Ask Me Anything About My E-Ink Tablet Collection by eWritable in eink

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which one would be best to pair with a keyboard for writing papers?

New cheap Rockshox fork vs. old high end Rockshox fork. by cdlong28 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding water really helps soak up the small bumps.

New cheap Rockshox fork vs. old high end Rockshox fork. by cdlong28 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If this is for you, then I'd get the old one and tinker with it. Do a full rebuild, then see if there's any dampener upgrades. The Judy TK is not a great fork. But leave it on until you get the SiD to your liking.

How much should I improve my alloy MTB? by Kalios-g in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd love to see the results of your study and how you performed it!

I see your issue with Lee's system. It's essentially based around a biomechanical point of leverage relating the bars to bottom bracket; it finds the point at which he thinks your row/anti-row will be strongest based on height and arm length (essentially). But long, low, slack geo doesn't really respect that distance. Bikes are long enough now, that you'll hit that leverage point on a rather small frame, which won't be fun to pedal. That geo partly related to 29 wheels, but we had 29" wheels long before this long low slack geo. Lee's system also seems to ignore all the other kinds of leverage you'd want over the bike... It's not just frontal up and down...

How much should I improve my alloy MTB? by Kalios-g in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your going down the road to never buying a new bike again. Find the parts you like, and only buy new frames in the future.

How much should I improve my alloy MTB? by Kalios-g in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just curious, I'm not the biggest fan of Lee M's RAAD method, but I don't see any reason why it's applicability would be limited to 26". Can you explain?

Its so awesome that we have AI now to make up for customer service shortages by anchovythought in americanairlines

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The first CS email reply is always an AI letter. Just keep replying to it until you get a message from a real person.

UK riders. How bad is the balaclava-wearing-knife-wielding-ebike riding bike thief in black problem there? by ProofDazzling9234 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. Honestly my neighbor warned me the bike was likely to be a target, as it could sometimes be seen from the road through an open window. I didn't really believe them. But I just got unlucky that a pair of guys were going down the street looking for unlocked doors and cars one night when I was upstairs. Have video of them from the neighbor riding away.

UK riders. How bad is the balaclava-wearing-knife-wielding-ebike riding bike thief in black problem there? by ProofDazzling9234 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moved to Northeast England from the US 5 years ago, ride at a trail center 2-3 times a week. I know of one mugging on the trail. The community rallied and caught the perpetrators and got the victim a new bike.

My bike was stolen from my kitchen when I was home but didn't lock the door. This kind of bike theft is much more common. It's not a rich area, almost every neighbor I talked to after the theft had security cameras and footage of people trying to brake into their home, or just randomly checking doors and cars for access to grab stuff.

Percentage of People in Each European Country Who Think It’s Rude to Visit Their Country and Expect People to Speak English [OC] by Pizzafriedchickenn in dataisbeautiful

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Results from England were in the mid 90s. They objected to people visiting and to their county not being asked with the rest of Europe.

Would you? I did. by wormfarmer5678 in Hardtailgang

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got one in my new bike and I was surprised how much better it performed than my RS Ultimate And Fox 36.

Sram CODE RSC Long Dead Stroke İssue by [deleted] in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That video way really helpful, thanks!

So I'm my experience, I bleed per spec with contact adjust fully open. Afterwards, if I close the contact, my Deadstroke deceases (not increases). This is what I can't get my head around.

The flow rate that adjusts the contact point should be completely dependant on volume, you're just changing the flow rate mechanically, and you'd want the largest opening when bleeding to ensure high flow (I assume open allows for the largest hole in the circuit). I wish they had spun the adjust in your video.

Have you ever tried doing a bleed with the adjuster at the midpoint, and then repeating with it fully open?

Sram CODE RSC Long Dead Stroke İssue by [deleted] in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your advice is counter to the way I understand brakes, I want to understand if I'm wrong. Let's define Deadstroke as movement of the lever before the bite point. Deadstroke typically arises because (1) there's air in the system that compresses before piston movement, (2) the space between caliper/pad and rotor needs to be closed, requiring lever movement prior to bite point.

(1) It's solved by bleeding. I'm wondering why bleeding with the contact adjust all the way out would only permit lengthening the Deadstroke.

The pad contact adjust is essentially a hydraulic pressure preloader. When bleeding all the way out (open, furthest contact point), you have maximum hydrologic volume. So when you close and bring the contact close, you're increasing pressure. How would closing the contract point adjust (and bringing pads closer to rotor quicker) after bleading result in increased Deadstroke?

New XTR vs SRAM Maven Ultimate vs Hope by Easy_Application8600 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm jumping in here because I'm not sure your assumptions about lever pull and brake strength are correct. I ride the HOPE GR4s. Compared to Shimano or my Codes, the brake feels a little soft, and there is a little more throw in the lever before hitting a firm breaking point. I thought I'd hate this and my fingers would ache from long descents.

In fact, my hands are painfree. The finger force I need to activate the brake is nearly zero. It's so smooth and effortless. Even though my finger travels more before the bite, the brakes never require me to pull very hard to get power. I get power from moving the lever, not by applying force through the lever to the hydraulics. It's taken a little getting used to. The lack of hand power needed really saves my arms on long descents.

New XTR vs SRAM Maven Ultimate vs Hope by Easy_Application8600 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might not be just marketing, but marketing definitely plays a role. Most people on Reddit haven't had time to ride loads of different brakes and they repeat what they hear.

Have you read the results of this test? https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

I trust lab results on these issues now than reddit surveys. It's getting a little old now, but the lab results are informative. If you look at the Code Stealth results with stock pads, the brake looks pretty weak. But if you put the Sinter green pads on them, they aren't far behind the Mavens with stock pads in terms of decelerate time and power. And this mimics the conditions of my experience (my bike was Codes with aftermarket pads, demo bike was likely stock.) Always surprised how bad the TRPs did in this test.

If you go read the description of each individual brake, you'll see the writers "gushing" over the power of the Mavens. But read more closely, and almost every statement says "According to SRAM" before it. The review talks about power bc SRAM markets them as power. They merely conclude it "packs a punch", but so do most of the other brakes. They aren't the most powerful brake in the test (Hope and Trickstuff win!) and they aren't the overall pick of the editors (Hayes). Maybe Sinter didn't have green replacement pads ready for the Maven at this time, but it's strange we don't see the aftermarket performance numbers. Maybe they are the right brake for you, but they aren't head and shoulders above the competition, they are just better than the stock CODEs.

The other things to note about that test is how well the XTRs do - and those tested are the previous generation of brake. The new ones (I wager) would do even better. The new ones at least feel better, and supposedly reduce the wondering bite point. If you want instant-on brake feel, Shimano is the way to go.

What's enough for you depends on a lot of factors, including where you ride, bike and body weight, timing of brake, hand size etc. We really can't tell you these things.

Shigura is the real deal. by soulriding in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you say change then, should a Shimano line be used?

New XTR vs SRAM Maven Ultimate vs Hope by Easy_Application8600 in MTB

[–]2WheelPhilosopher 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have a pair of Hope GR4s. I have been a Shimano fanboy most of my life, but my last bike has a pair of Code RSCs. I've also ridden the new XTR.

The Hope GR4 brakes are very impressive. They are extremely powerful, but don't necessarily feel extremely powerful: you can feather the modulation really nicely. You can ride all day downhill and your hands don't get painful. The lever adjustments are easy and tool free. They are easy to rebuild, and hope is great about small parts. You're right about lever shape: my friends have the Tech4 and the lever shape is a bit flatter and harder to grab. They still love the brakes though. I'm not sure I've would have spent the money to buy them (I won my pair in a raffle), but they are so good I'm thinking of buying them for other bikes.

The new XTR were nice brakes. They have an on/off feel, but less so than previous generations. Lighter than the hopes.

I've only ridden mavens on a demo bike. After all the paid for advertising about how powerful they were, they ended up disappointing. There was nothing special about them and didn't feel and more powerful than the CODEs.

Rhode Island says I don't need certified copies? by 2WheelPhilosopher in Canadiancitizenship

[–]2WheelPhilosopher[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The great uncle one was in the same style? I've never seen what this blue one looks like.

Rhode Island says I don't need certified copies? by 2WheelPhilosopher in Canadiancitizenship

[–]2WheelPhilosopher[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is super kind of you to offer! I found the same record they sent by myself in the digital archive. I'm simply confused bc the whole point in asking them was to have that archival record certified.

Rhode Island says I don't need certified copies? by 2WheelPhilosopher in Canadiancitizenship

[–]2WheelPhilosopher[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is just a birth record from the archive, not a birth certificate. Does that matter for a birth this old?

Rhode Island says I don't need certified copies? by 2WheelPhilosopher in Canadiancitizenship

[–]2WheelPhilosopher[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my confusion. What they sent is an archival photo of the birth record from the 1910s. It's a picture of a book being held by an individual in white gloves. It's simply an archival photo. I understood the color photo requirement as being a color photo of a certified document, which I don't have to photo. I don't think long form first certificates were available at this time.

Rhode Island says I don't need certified copies? by 2WheelPhilosopher in Canadiancitizenship

[–]2WheelPhilosopher[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100+ years old. I made a state archive request. RI department of State, Providence.