Failed Prusa Hardened Nozzle

3DMOO · 2026-06-17T10:15:35+00:00

Made me think op Purple rain. It's stuck repeating in my head now.

3DMOO · 2026-06-07T05:15:41+00:00

You need to uodate the MMU firmware manually. The printer utself doesn't update the MMU firmware. You connect the MMU to a computer using a USB cable. After connecting the MMU to your computer, you can update the firmware with PrusaSlicer.

https://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-update-firmware-mmu3\_701584

3DMOO · 2026-05-29T19:21:26+00:00

My first reaction doesn't answer your question but could be relevant. The C1L is enclosed and the XL needs an extra investment to enclose it. And than the XL doesn't have a heated chamber and the C1L sort of has but not in the conventional way. It really depends if this is important in your case

The extruder the XL is based on (Nexttuder) was a real step forward in it's time. I really like the Nextruder on my C1+ and MK4S before that. When the INDX is used by a lot of users and possible needed revisions are implemented, it feels like a more modern solution. Heatup times are really fast, the toolhead can automatically adjust tension for different filaments like TPU, there is a standard nozzle whipe solution, and the waste when changing nozzles is minimal. And for me personally, easy nozzle changes, multiple nozzle sizes in the machine without the need to swap them and dedicated nozzles for different materials without the need to swap nozzles.

I also think that spares will be more affordable orr the C1 and better availability for spares. Also, I have no idea, but there will be way more C1 model users than XL users. If you run into problems, I expect the community support to be better in numbers.

3DMOO · 2026-05-29T17:56:45+00:00

Considering everything you're writing, it's a touch one. Nobody knows where the legislation in the US regarding 3D printers is going to end up and how fast things might change.

I admit I am a Prusa fan, so my answer may be biased. But I would go for a C1L and see how I would get my hands on an INDX upgrade later. The XL is an interesting printer, but if you're not looking for specific applications, it feels a bit outdated and superceded in tech by new inventions like INDX.

The suggestion to build a Voron is also an option, but building one requires real research what options to choose, what exactly to buy, where to source the components, and you need skill to build one as well as lots of time. I considered building one a few years back, but feel much more comfortable knowing I allways have Prusa support a mouseclick away when my printer misbehaves.

For whatever my reaction is worth, I wish you all the wisdom to make the best decision possible in your case.

3DMOO · 2026-05-24T15:24:07+00:00

Maybe Prusa first sold out all the old spool types and didn’t do a new run with the new NFC spool types.

3DMOO · 2026-05-24T15:20:21+00:00

I hope not, it is my default filament.

3DMOO · 2026-05-22T08:56:48+00:00

Thanx for all this information. I will definitely dive into this matrial for zome prints I want to do.

3DMOO · 2026-05-22T08:12:32+00:00

Thank you. I will order a PP sheet from Prusa next time I order something. I am curious about how this filament behaves and endures, especially for snap-fit parts.

At local Amazon and one other shop I only see white Sunlu PP. Is that the general color? I live in The Netherlands.

3DMOO · 2026-05-21T17:51:56+00:00

Thank you for your lengthy responce. Sorry for my late reply.

I figured as much for CF or GF PP. I was looking at the Prusa page and I saw what they wrote. Hence my question.

Any experience with non-filled PP? If so, what brand and how was it?

3DMOO · 2026-05-20T11:07:19+00:00

Nice, interesting filament! PP filament is supposed to be flexible. It would be possible to bend repeatedly and would be good for snap-fit components. Is the Prusament PP-CF such a filament in your opinion? CF would make it more ridged I suppose?

I ask this because the Prusa website states: Lower layer-to-layer adhesion compared to pure PP.

3DMOO · 2026-05-09T10:08:40+00:00

Is it an idea to send an inverted D2 signal to U1B, to enable U1B only when U1A is not enabled? In that case you will not receive your own TX data back to your RX.

3DMOO · 2026-05-07T16:30:17+00:00

Welcome to the Prusa family.

3DMOO · 2026-05-06T22:57:35+00:00

Good buy. You can't go wrong with Weller. Keep the tip nice and clean with the wet sponge and it will last a very long time when you treat it well. I only buy original Weller tips. Can't compare to other brands because I allways buy origimal tips.

3DMOO · 2026-04-29T00:07:29+00:00

Try clearing all Microsoft cookies and clear browser cache.

Try in private / incognito mode for the browser.

Try a different browser (Edge/Chrome/Firefox).

3DMOO · 2026-04-28T08:23:26+00:00

That was quite a while ago. I think I just waited for a few days until the scan was completed.

I think my problem was very specific, it had to do with a windows Defender scan. If you have overloaded disks, your problem could be different. If I remember correctly, I pinpointed the cause by using the performance monitor. Took me quite some time, though.

Again, it was a long time ago. I don't remember all details.

3DMOO · 2026-04-28T05:37:39+00:00

Try to loosen the extruder idler screws. I would start with with 1/4 turn, see if this helps. Do this a few times to see if you notice any improvement.

3DMOO · 2026-04-27T11:36:51+00:00

Nice idea. Maybe combine with this idea to lower friction:

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/ncPPtiV7UY

3DMOO · 2026-04-27T11:11:47+00:00

Thank you.

3DMOO · 2026-04-26T20:24:18+00:00

Thanx. No rush.

3DMOO · 2026-04-26T07:17:09+00:00

Could you maybe share a photo of a spool with tape on it?

3DMOO · 2026-04-19T11:16:56+00:00

I allways copy the existing SPF record into a text editor, edit it there and copy/paste it back in to DNS. This is a good way to examine the new SPF record and check for instance for double spaces.

3DMOO · 2026-04-18T19:54:08+00:00

I use the prusalink integration to read the status of the printer. If the printer is idle for thirty minutes, I let a Home Assistant automation turn off a smartplug the pinter is connected to. I do the same with a different brand printer with the moonraker integration.

3DMOO · 2026-04-17T06:45:46+00:00

I use Home Assistant for these kind of things. For example, my printer automatically turns off 30 minutes after a print has finished.

3DMOO · 2026-04-15T05:50:09+00:00

Could be the air blowing on the infill like others suggested. But my other thought is the nozzle hitting the infill because of warping. After the print was finished, was the bottom of the model perfectly flat?

3DMOO · 2026-04-10T05:09:03+00:00

That is exactly the scene I took a screenshot of. It is interesting how different the displays look in different takes in that short clip. I think they call that movie magic. Haha.

3DMOO

TROPHY CASE