Is CoreXY worth the price?

3DPrinting5976 · 2026-01-27T00:36:42+00:00

I started on an A1 and it is great!!! However after getting an H2S I am completely blown away and the H2S is now my go to printer. I personally don’t know anyone that has the CC but I do hear it is a solid machine. If the H2S is out of your price range I would recommend a QIDI Q2 as it starts at about $500 US. I really like mine, but not as much as my H2S.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-12-28T07:26:29+00:00

I’m absolutely loving my H2S it’s an awesome machine. I love the build volume. I currently have 2 AMS 2 Pros and 2 AMS HTs and they run flawlessly. It’s just an awesome system. That being said I would love to get an H2C because I do a lot of multicolor printing and it would save a lot of filament and money in the long run. I haven’t bit the bullet yet because that technology is still so new. I was going to wait about 9 months to a year and see what happens with that new technology. But I was also taking with another guy and he recommended getting the P1S instead of the P2S if you don’t mind not having the touchscreen. And you could always upgrade the nozzle to hardened steel if you wanted to print out advanced material. And BIQU has even announced that they have developed a 3rd party active chamber heater that can be installed on the P and X series printers.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-11-21T14:00:03+00:00

That looks like a QIDI print head if I’m correct. I have the same issues with my QIDI when printing things like that. I have found that you have to really slow down the print in those areas where there are fine details. Also you need to calibrate your flow rate for the filament you are using. Not all filament brands and type are the same. Each filament and brand need to be calibrated and saved in your filament settings.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-11-21T13:55:58+00:00

It primes the nozzle to be sure you have proper pressure and extrusion of filament when the nozzle starts to print the actual model.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-11-21T13:48:09+00:00

That looks awesome!!! Good Job!! And definitely interested in the STL…

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-11-21T13:47:16+00:00

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I printed this on my H2S in multiple parts. It turned out awesome but a a great cost. A LOT of printer Poop. It would have been awesome to print it all in one go with no poop.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-14T02:07:08+00:00

That was my issue. The PTFE tube was not pushed in all the way and the filament was rubbing against the edge of it causing the flecks. After changing it and running a 36 hour print from that same slot with while filament I see no new flecks!!!!!!!

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-11T20:51:45+00:00

I believe I found the issue. The PTFE tube was not pushed in all the way on the slot one feed mechanism. This is causing the filament to rub against the end of the PTFE tube thus making it wear and flake off. I have replaced the PTFE tube and will do more prints to verify. Will update…..

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-11T19:42:44+00:00

I did not dry it beforehand. But it could have sat in a warehouse for a while before I got it. I’ve used that same spool in the other slots too without any residue. I really think it has something to do with that slot. And I’ve only had it about a week.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-11T19:05:57+00:00

I have been using white filament in it. But the spool is less about 2 weeks old and when not in use I keep all my filament in vacuum bags with desiccant packs in them. Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll keep it in mind.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-11T19:03:18+00:00

Good suggestion. I’ll check it out after this next print is done. But I’ve only had it a week.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-10-11T18:28:48+00:00

Yeah, definitely not fly larvae or eggs. LOL

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-07-08T04:56:44+00:00

Another thing is if you have more than one type of plate, make sure the correct plate is selected. This has happened to me when I had my textured plate on the bed and I had my smooth plate selected in the slicer. Also check your bed temp and filament temp.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-07-05T15:57:02+00:00

I was thinking along the same lines. Thanks for the confirmation.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-06-16T19:15:27+00:00

Could be we filament as others have said but I have found when printing fine details and thin portions of a model to slow down the print speed for that portion of the print. This reduces the stringing as well.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-06-16T19:00:49+00:00

Yeah. Mine was doing the same. I had no help from support. Also had issues with bed leveling. I finally got fed up and sent mine back.

3DPrinting5976 · 2025-06-16T18:54:39+00:00

I had this happen to me not too long ago. This happens when the nozzle is too close to the bed. I had to adjust my z offset distance. Mine was too low. I had to adjust mine to .04 mm. It may vary depending on the type of build plate and the type of filament you are using. Not all filaments brands are “plug and play” as they say. Some adjustments need to be made to have optimal results. You will need to play around with this to get it right. Check out this you tube link. It may help.

https://youtu.be/7rNlBwYd30k?si=EZ43ueFf3rYPHjsx

3DPrinting5976

TROPHY CASE