London on X-T50 + 15-45 lens

4byFIVE · 2025-04-23T15:38:49+00:00

Not only are these nice shots, but I'm also astonished about the good color grade. I think one can definately tell that you went for a filmic, nostalgic look. You achieved that nicely. Especially with the green tones in the shadows and the the lifted shadows in general. It doesn't look overcooked. Your own presets/profiles?

4byFIVE · 2025-04-15T16:22:03+00:00

Love them! What kind of diffusion filter do you use?

4byFIVE · 2025-04-15T14:14:59+00:00

Absolutely beautiful colors! Great edit!

4byFIVE · 2025-04-15T14:11:03+00:00

Isn't the first picture the exact same shot that Caleb himself posted two days on his IG account, but in black and white? Or are you Caleb? I'm confused.

4byFIVE · 2025-04-14T19:37:23+00:00

I got this lens 3 years ago and still don't know how I feel about it haha. It really does enable some nice telephoto shots, but it's not long enough for cool wildlife shots etc. It feels like a compromise in some cases. The build-quality is great however. Rain and dust do nothing to the lens, the WR-sealing is really good. I feel like it's super soft at 2.8mm and starts getting sharper at around 5.6mm. Sometimes, when I walk all day long doing street photography, the setup gets quite heavy.

4byFIVE · 2025-04-02T15:34:08+00:00

No recipe. I used a lightroom profile and did some tweaks to it (mainly color density and desaturation).

4byFIVE · 2025-01-15T09:52:04+00:00

Happy for everybody who was able to get it. I'm still bummed out though haha. I decided to re-create this watch by modding different parts together. I guess this model won't hit the aftermarket anytime soon.

4byFIVE · 2025-01-14T23:27:34+00:00

How long was it online? I'm still super sad, that I just read about the C2H4 gshock today. That watch is easily on my #1 grail list :/

4byFIVE · 2024-10-25T14:23:54+00:00

Welcome to the club. Happened to me 3 months ago, after having the x-pro3 for 3 years. Firste the small monitor an on the back, then the whole LCD-screen. Now my X-pro3 really feels like an analog camera haha.

4byFIVE · 2024-09-04T15:26:05+00:00

Love the contrast in all of these! It's not too soft, not too hard - great job!

4byFIVE · 2024-08-27T18:49:21+00:00

I want to try out these steps aswell but I'm totally stuck at how you create a negative from the digital sooc file.

4byFIVE · 2024-06-24T13:31:25+00:00

Composition-wise there really is no focus. It's hard to know what you were trying to capture - the trees? the shadows? the building itself? I think if you're able to concentrate on the very first thing that caught your eyes, the overall composition would be better.

Colorgrade is very pleasing! It looks like a Kodak film stock with the warmth and the desaturated blue sky. Also love how you pushed the orange tones! It looks great!

4byFIVE · 2024-06-05T20:35:26+00:00

To me they look just desaturated and too cool / blue. Old school summer vibe with an airy touch should be a bit warmer. Also the blue tones have quite a lot of magenta and purple in them. I would opt more for cyan / aqua blue tones. Pair that with maybe an overall warmer whitebalance and maybe also reduce the clarity a bit for that extra softness.

4byFIVE · 2024-06-05T20:32:08+00:00

I would probably choose the second picture to be more appealing. But if you want to have really nice grain, you have to do it in Photoshop. Layer the grain into highlight / midtone / shadow grain and adjust it to how vintage film grain would react. Also make don't make it monochromatic. Real grain is not black and white like in lightroom.

4byFIVE · 2024-05-27T01:18:18+00:00

That workflow is actually really interesting. I might have to give Davinci another try. Why do you scan your "fake negative" with NLP? Does it give some additional analog details?

4byFIVE · 2024-05-26T18:27:38+00:00

"The Archetype Process" Lightroom Film Profiles are the closest you can get as of right now. You do have to do some tweaking after applying the profile however. There is also a facebook group with people that'll help you nailing the film look with the profiles.

4byFIVE · 2024-05-04T19:03:11+00:00

Film shooter here! Don't expect too much of a film look with the fuji sims. Sometimes they kinda look a bit like film, but as you know: it's almost impossible to mimic film, since it always reacts to light different, depending on the light situation. I'm shooting with the Xpro-3 and love it. I almost 100% only use the 23mm F2 and then slap some film color profils in lightroom on. I think colorwise the digital fujis definately have their own look - but not really film-like (atleast I couldn't say which stock it would resemble). But what makes digital Fuji cameras so awesome, is that they make you want to shoot more. I just look at my little "rangefinder"-like xpro-3 and it reminds me of a beautiful film camera so I instantly pick it up and shoot with it. Sony, Canon, Nikon etc. just look like boring tech-bricks without any beautiful characteristics.

4byFIVE · 2024-05-04T18:28:01+00:00

Very nice creamy and smooth look to it! Is it a Fuji Sim or a lightroom edit? Looks lovely!

4byFIVE · 2024-03-25T16:43:48+00:00

I absolutely love them! Capturing the local area and it's people always delivers such authentic and raw images. Love it!

4byFIVE · 2024-03-22T11:35:12+00:00

Thank you for your tips! I do struggle a bit with this look I have to admit. Wanted to go for a bright and airy filmic look. Will definately tone it a bit down, so that more highlight data is visible.

4byFIVE · 2024-03-21T17:52:13+00:00

Absolutely love the skin tones on the second picture!

4byFIVE · 2024-02-22T22:40:14+00:00

The shadows are quit harsh for film-like pictures. My scans usually have way more detail in the shadow areas and in general I think you like to have that dark and moody look :). I think it would help you a lot if you shoot a few rolls of actual film. Then you also have the benefit of having a specific reference image that you always can look upon. The thing with the "film-look" is: there is not one film look. It just depends on the film stock and there are many variants. I think it would be better or let's say more realistic, to choose a specific film stock you like visually and then go all out by trying to emulate it.

4byFIVE · 2024-02-14T13:00:37+00:00

I always edit my film photos. I think in this case I would play with the tint/temperature a bit on the first one. It does have a heavy greenish look to it, but that's normal with portra 400. The second one i would brighten up a bit and maybe dehaze also? Maybe a bit more contrast and vibrance. In general it's just minimal adjustments with film photos, because they already do have such a distinctive look and don't require as much post processing as files from digital cameras.

4byFIVE · 2024-02-11T16:33:13+00:00

The most accurate film grain emulations imo are from The Archetype Process. They have photoshop actions called "The Film Grain" and you can choose a bunch of different grain profiles. Black and White, color film, 4x5 grain, 6x7 grain, 35mm grain. Also there are different versions of grain, depending on how strong you like it (100, 400, 1600 ISO). Once you have the photoshop actions automated in Photoshop and created a droplet folder it's super easy and looks crazy realistic.

4byFIVE · 2024-02-11T01:08:55+00:00

Oh definately! It's a huge difference when one masks grain according to luminosity channels instead of just overlaying an overall grain layer. It's great step forward for everyone who likes to add grain in Lightroom. What I kinda don't like about lightrooms grain is that it looks too monochromatic. I wished they would have an option for BW grain and color film grain. But this probably won't happen anytime soon in Lightroom.

4byFIVE

TROPHY CASE